GS1000 streetfighter idea w/ picture

[oldsport]

a link - an old Cycle World article.

PDF about Yosh Suzuki

Ulrich investigates and rides the superbikes bikes -

As for color, white with blue or red with white.

[80GS1000]

a link - an old Cycle World article.

PDF about Yosh Suzuki

Ulrich investigates and rides the superbikes bikes -

As for color, white with blue or red with white.

Here's a high-res scan of that article I made from an original copy of Cycle World:

http://www.slcelectronics.com/GS1000_Build/Yoshi-Article/

The blue/white Yoshimura GS1000 was the bee's knees IMO:

[80GS1000]

Funny how serendipity works sometimes.

I was about to get the sprocket carrier machined down a bit more to resolve the chain dragging on the frame issue on this project. It was really close to being OK, the chain was only dragging on deceleration when the chain went from taut to slack.

Then I took a close look at the GSXR 750 while lubing its chain, which has a DID 520 ERV3 chain fitted, and noticed that the DID chain that was fitted to it looked narrower than the EK 520 chain I had bought for the project.

Intrigued by this, the calipers came out and the DID measured out to be 18.6 mm wide, where the EK was 21 mm wide. Big difference when every mm counts.

So I ordered a new DID 520 ERV3 chain with the hopes this would resolve the chain dragging problem on the GS, and figured in the worst case I could bust off the master link and use the chain for the GSXR instead.

Well, the chain arrived yesterday, and I immediately mocked it up. It didn't drag on the frame anymore (\\/ x 1000). Also, sprocket alignment was nice and straight. I modified the rubber chain runner on the GSXR 1000 swingarm so it'd fit with the GS frame, which worked out great. No worries then about chain to swingarm contact.

By the way, if anyone else is new to shortening a chain and installing a rivet master link (I was), there's a great instructional video on Youtube on how to do it.
Part 1 Part 2

After breaking two separate clip master links on this project, I wanted to go with a rivet type for a bit more security.

I also ground off the head of the rivet I wanted to remove with a Dremel before hitting it with the chain breaker as there have been reports of the Motion Pro chain breaker tool breaking if you try to remove links before grinding down the rivet. With the rivet ground down, the chain breaker made short work of pressing out the rivet. 3 links wound up being removed.

With the links removed, I installed the rivet master link per the directions in the video, torqued down all the nuts and bolts on the bike, put the front sprocket cover back on (which shockingly didn't need to be modified even with the 5/8" offset 520 sprocket), and crossed my fingers. With the bike on the ghetto-dyno (rear wheel off the ground using a swingarm stand), I hopped on and started up the bike. Ran it through 1st through 5th gear, rear wheel speed up to about 65 MPH or so. No problems, no telltale clank-clank-clank of the chain hitting anything. \\/

So at this point I was pretty $%$%'ing excited because it meant I could go for an actual shakedown ride. Geared up, and took it for a 40 mile test ride around town and in the local mountain twisties.

First impressions:

The good:

This thing STOPS, right NOW. GSXR brakes with stainless braided lines are the bidnezz.

The bike handles well. The Michelin radials, the frame bracing and the revised steering geometry plus new running gear seem to be working well. It is much more stable in corners than before and turns much faster than before. The mid-corner wallowing and weaving is gone. Having the chassis being unsettled by a mid-corner bump is a thing of the past.

The not-so-good:

Wow, this seat is a freakin' mattress, and way too tall. It's comfortable, and insulates you from a lot of the bumps in the road, but doesn't suit my riding style. Hanging off in corners in the twisties like I do on the GSXR 750 isn't possible because of the seat. Needs to be cut down to resemble the Zerco racing seat that Cooley and Emdie used on their Yoshi bikes.

It seems to be slower accelerating than I remember even from a month ago, and doesn't rev quite as fast as I'd like. It's got a rough idle too, so I think a carb clean is in order. I was dumb and left gas in the carbs while the bike sat for a month. :P

The new speedo doesn't work, and neither does the rear left turn signal. I've still got a bit of electrical work to do apparently.

The paint is all faded and tatty and looks like @$$, but then again, it always did.

All in all, I'm super stoked to have this bike back on the road with new running gear. HUGE THANKS to everyone who offered help and interest in this project, seriously it couldn't have been done without you. :-D

[Suzukfan78]

What route are you going to take with the engine?

[TheCafeKid]

I think blue/white Yoshimura wins in terms of paintjobs - it looks the business and honors this bike's racing past too. What do you think?

man its weird to see a race bike with upright bars like that....it works for him i guess and thats all the matters but how often do you see em sittin up like that hehehe

[80GS1000]

What route are you going to take with the engine?

1085 kit, new valves, and replace the tranny for now since it slips out of second gear under the gun. I found a complete GS1000 tranny in good shape for short dollars ($60) so the whole thing will probably be swapped out. Maybe do a bit of porting and lap the valve seats too. If the budget allows, weld, balance, index, and lighten up the crank. I'd like some more performance but not at the expense of reliability or streetability. If it put out 100-110 HP with good torque I'd be happy. The motor's got 32k miles on it and could use a bit of freshening up. Paint it black like the Yoshi GS1000 bike.

man its weird to see a race bike with upright bars like that....it works for him i guess and thats all the matters but how often do you see em sittin up like that hehehe

That's a good point - clip-ons were around long before the 80s AMA Superbike racing. Wonder why the guys selected handlebars over clipons for racing? Was it an AMA rule or something? I'm seriously considering putting the clipons back on the GSXR forks because the riding position is better for sport riding.

[jskellington]

They needed those wide bars for leverage. It takes muscle to push a GS1000 through tight turns. I'm told Cooley used to yank so hard on his bars that they bent.

[Suzukfan78]

Are you also going to replace valve seals and guides? Im planning on the same bore kit as you in the next year and am curious what all should be replaced. Im trying to approximate expenses. In the next year Im going Wes Cooley replica all the way; But a little different: with Radials, Gsxr front end/brakes, GS11000 swingarm. I want to get as close to the bike featured in "motorcyclist magazine" (1980 spec machine) as I can. Im talking bikini fairing, paint, decals, velocity stacks, possibley race numbers...the whole shabang. When are you geetting your engine work done? Im very curious what your expenses will look like.

[first timer]

i figured to built a serious gs1000 motor you are going to need about $3500 in the bank. keep in mind a good head job will cost you about 900 bucks.

[80GS1000]

Are you also going to replace valve seals and guides? Im planning on the same bore kit as you in the next year and am curious what all should be replaced. Im trying to approximate expenses. In the next year Im going Wes Cooley replica all the way; But a little different: with Radials, Gsxr front end/brakes, GS11000 swingarm. I want to get as close to the bike featured in "motorcyclist magazine" (1980 spec machine) as I can. Im talking bikini fairing, paint, decals, velocity stacks, possibley race numbers...the whole shabang. When are you geetting your engine work done? Im very curious what your expenses will look like.

The motor work will be done when I can afford it.

I think the bodywork paint (tank, tail etc) and seat will get done before the motor work.

We want pretty much the same thing in the end - a Yoshi GS1000 replica with uprated running gear, brakes, and motor. Here's that magazine article you were talking about: http://www.slcelectronics.com/GS1000...Yoshi-Article/

i figured to built a serious gs1000 motor you are going to need about $3500 in the bank. keep in mind a good head job will cost you about 900 bucks.

What would that $3500 buy you?

[first timer]

500 piston kit
300 bore job
800/900 port polish
50/200 kz650 under shim buckets
400 cams
75 16v 750 oil pump gears
100 gasket kit
400/500 weld balance crank + 100 for lightening
200 billet clutch basket
200 earls oil cooler set
75 ape cam chain tenioner
90 good cam chain
120 gasket kit
120 clutch disks
200 for engine cleaning/blasting for gunkote black paint

so for just a quick calc, spliting the differances with a few things looks like about 3700 buck, You can look most of this stuff up and come up with solid numbers I am just trying to rember what i came up with last time i looked into want i wanted to do. Best thing to do is slowly collect parts.

opps forgot to add need some good carbs to let the motor breath 600/800 +150 for filters... yeah fun costs money

i am kind of in the same boat as you guys but would perfer to run vintage race parts instead, so if you ever have a lead let me know. I am about 50% of the way there now.
-Ryan

[80GS1000]

Hrm, wonder what kind of performance numbers you could get with that motor configuration? Part of me wants to build out the GS1000 motor since it'd be more authentic and the 2 valver sounds incredible, part wants to replace it with a GS1100 or GS1150 or even GSXR 1127 16 valve motor. Might be more cost effective and reliable?

[Suzukfan78]

To bore a block is $300!? That seems a little high; are you sure thats correct? Im not going to get a professional port/polish job; which will save some bucks. I think Ill just be very careful and smooth any rough casting marks, attempt to polish the exhaust side, and try to match my intake boots to the head as best I can. All this performed very slowly and carefully of course. Like you mentioned I want at least 100 RWHP too. I think it will be easy to get from: 1085 kit, 29mm smooth bores(cross your fingers) , K/Ns, good exhaust sys, dyna coils/ign, cams, and most importantly; cams/timing and carbs set up properly. The bike I want to model mine off of is in the july 2006 issue of motorcyclist. Im thinking of even doing number plates, but have the front plate perforated so the head light shines through when lighted. Also flush mount turn sigs. Other ideas are to cut twin oval vent holes in the cooley fairing to vent a hidden oil cooler on one opening and place that heat generating Rectifier/Reg. in the airstream behind the other. I dont know if this stuff is possible due to the size of the bikini fairing; but its fun to think about.

[Suzukfan78]

Does the 2 valver sound a lot different?

[80GS1000]

Mine sounds a lot like this one: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XEAUAD78Imc

The 1100s and 1150s sound awesome too, just different.

Love this video of an 1100 in action. That blast of torque from 0:17 to 0:20 is insane. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-EI4E-K6xFI