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GS1000 streetfighter idea w/ picture
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Ironriot
Originally posted by tone View Post
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tone
Heres a pic of the sort of bracing i do (its nicked from another site ) the guys there spent ages sorting out what was what & still came up with exactly what we'd been doing for 20+ years :-D
F is not really needed & can cause more hassle than it worth, care i needed when fitting A & C cos they can foul the tank (tack & check before fully welding)
the area around C is the weakest area of a gs or gsx frame, E & D stiffen the swingarm area considerably Although i use a much smaller lighter tube for E
the green D is for a mono conversion but i do mine differently to that
Hope it helps
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Forum LongTimerGSResource Superstar
Past Site Supporter- Oct 2006
- 13969
- London, UK to Redondo Beach, California
I can weld ok... no welding gear here though, mine's all back in the UK.1980 GS1000G - Sold
1978 GS1000E - Finished!
1980 GS550E - Fixed & given to a friend
1983 GS750ES Special - Sold
2009 KLR 650 - Sold - gone to TX!
1982 GS1100G - Rebuilt and finished. - Sold
2009 TE610 - Dual Sporting around dreaming of Dakar..... - FOR SALE!
www.parasiticsanalytics.com
TWINPOT BRAKE UPGRADE LINKY: http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...e-on-78-Skunk/
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Zooks
Looks very similar to the gussets that are welded into rollcages in racecars. I'm originally a metal fabricator too and have done a lot of racecar work. Many 'types' of car racing require that a triangular shaped gusset be inserted into every corner on the cars rollcage. That's a lot of extra welding. Precision is not quite so important in that circumstance though.
I find this sort of stuff very interesting.
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80GS1000
Originally posted by tone View PostHeres a pic of the sort of bracing i do (its nicked from another site ) the guys there spent ages sorting out what was what & still came up with exactly what we'd been doing for 20+ years :-D
F is not really needed & can cause more hassle than it worth, care i needed when fitting A & C cos they can foul the tank (tack & check before fully welding)
the area around C is the weakest area of a gs or gsx frame, E & D stiffen the swingarm area considerably Although i use a much smaller lighter tube for E
the green D is for a mono conversion but i do mine differently to that
Hope it helps
The subframe bracing plus the new swingarm worked a treat for eliminating flex on the back of the bike. Used to wallow and weave under heavy cornering as the rear of the frame and swingarm would load and unload their flex. Not anymore. \\/
Taken right before it was painted:
Last edited by Guest; 01-22-2008, 11:20 PM.
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Originally posted by 80GS1000 View PostHave you noticed much flex in your frame while riding?
Once you have the design of the frame bracing all set, anyone who's experienced with MIG/TIG welding and simple fabrication should be able to do it. The guy I used for the monoshock mounts and first round of bracing has been doing frame repairs and bodywork on cars for 20+ years. The subframe is rock solid now from the bracing there.
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Ironriot
Originally posted by tone View PostHeres a pic of the sort of bracing i do (its nicked from another site ) the guys there spent ages sorting out what was what & still came up with exactly what we'd been doing for 20+ years :-D
F is not really needed & can cause more hassle than it worth, care i needed when fitting A & C cos they can foul the tank (tack & check before fully welding)
the area around C is the weakest area of a gs or gsx frame, E & D stiffen the swingarm area considerably Although i use a much smaller lighter tube for E
the green D is for a mono conversion but i do mine differently to that
Hope it helps
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80GS1000
Some more pics here of what Tone's talking about, for whatever reason you can't link straight to it: www.oldskoolsuzuki.info > GSX/EFE/Katana section > Making the GSX frame stiffer
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Mark M
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tone
hi guys
B & C are boxed in as ironriot says but i tend to use either tube as 80gs1000 has done for E or a bit of oval section purely cos i prefer the look
to answer 80gs1000 ive used this bracing on an otherwise stock gs & you can certainly feel the improvement the bike tracks better & wollows less when flicking from side to side, its not such a dramatic improvement as fitting modern running gear but if you are doing that as well it will help you get the most out of your new suspension & brakes
obviously its not going to be up to gsxr1000 standards in the handling stakes but anyone doing this will find a great improvement over stock
there is a weight penalty to doing it obviously but a lot of that can be made back by a mild engine tune & the use of lighter parts elsewhere
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80GS1000
Here's a great thread on bracing the GS1000 frame for this Yoshi GS1000 replica. Great story behind this bike. http://forum.oldskoolsuzuki.info/cgi...num=1159728921
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tone
Yep great story & great thread the bike looks good but if you go down this route please dont make the same glaring errors that they did on the grinding & welding its counterproductive
i pointed it out at the time & was completely ignored, no surprise there
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Ironriot
Originally posted by tone View PostYep great story & great thread the bike looks good but if you go down this route please dont make the same glaring errors that they did on the grinding & welding its counterproductive
i pointed it out at the time & was completely ignored, no surprise there
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80GS1000
Originally posted by Ironriot View PostWell i know which posts were yours, now. Lol. Even though I have little to no experience with welding, I atleast know that you can't put the steel through that many heat cycles. I was reading through the thread and was saying to myself, 'hmm why they welding one area up so many times? That can't be good for the steel.' I'd think that later when the frame becomes fatigued those welds on welds are going to start cracking
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n1elkyfan
It look like that is the bottom of the frame. Seeing something like that would make me question any work done on the rest of the bike.
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