GS1000 streetfighter idea w/ picture

[patrickmcp]

80GS1000, could you get your machinist dude to fab up another set of 2006 rear swingarm and shock bushings as I so happen to have the same parts as you . Let me know if this is a possibility. Or if you can't would you happen to have CAD files on it? Thanks

[80GS1000]

80GS1000, could you get your machinist dude to fab up another set of 2006 rear swingarm and shock bushings as I so happen to have the same parts as you . Let me know if this is a possibility. Or if you can't would you happen to have CAD files on it? Thanks

Sorry man I don't have the CAD files unfortunately. A good CNC machinist should be able to knock them out fairly easily for you. The most critical bits are that the OD fits inside the swingarm bearings, the ID fits your pivot bolt, and the overall length including the brim of the tophat is flush with the swingarm so it'll fit in the frame. Also get them made in hard stainless....

[80GS1000]

Electrical overhaul part 1

Blog post on this build #3,569,456.

So as apparently is fairly common, the GS slowly began committing electrical suicide over the summer starting around the time of the West Coast GSR rally. First the headlight wouldn't shine anymore (headlight circuit bad), then the bike wouldn't charge anymore(stator ate itself)...also had a feeling that the stock coils were past their prime since it took 4-5 cranks of the motor for it to start and then you'd have to choke it for a while to keep it idling while cold.

Time to fix all that nonsense....

Picked up a set of green 3 ohm Dyna coils and a set of Dyna spark plug wires a while back and never got around to installing them so tonight was the night. Fairly straightforward installation, just have to cut the harness connectors and wires off the old coils, crimp/solder the wires onto some ring connectors, put on some heat shrink insulation, and then screw the ring connectors to the new Dyna coils. The spark plug wires were similarly easy, just cut them to length and then crimp on a connector for the coil. After they were ready, bolted the new coils to the frame, hooked up the spark plug wires, pulled out the choke, and hit the starter button. It fired on the first crank and idled much better than before....should've done this mod a long time ago.

Next on the list to be installed are a new stator, R/R, and wiring harness. Hopefully this electrical overhaul will keep the electrical gremlins at bay for quite a while.

[Mark M]

Also get them made in hard stainless....

Stainless is the worst possible material for a bushing. It will gall and bind in record time, worse than just about any other metal. Your best material is a brass or bronze bearing material that is purpose made for this job. Also, add a grease fitting or two to keep the swingarm pivot nicely greased just to be kind to those nice new bronze bushings.

Mark

[80GS1000]

Stainless is the worst possible material for a bushing. It will gall and bind in record time, worse than just about any other metal. Your best material is a brass or bronze bearing material that is purpose made for this job. Also, add a grease fitting or two to keep the swingarm pivot nicely greased just to be kind to those nice new bronze bushings.

Mark

Mark-

Agreed that brass/bronze are very good bushing materials. Should've been more specific and said 440 stainless. 440 stainless which those bushings are made of is known for its anti-galling properties as well...haven't had any binding issues.

[Ogri]

These bushings are installed inside the bearing of the swingarm. There should not be any galling or binding as the swingarm will pivot on the bearing, not the bushing.

Nice work 80GS1000, as always. Your bike looks fantastic!

[80GS1000]

Oil pump gears and tachometer drive replacement

Decided to upgrade the oil pump gears for more flow/pressure as an oil cooler setup is planned to be installed. First step is to remove the clutch basket. The basket was sent out to Gardner Racing Concepts in Maine to get a heavy duty clutch hub kit installed.

With the clutch basket and the oil pump idler gear removed, it looks like this.



Then you remove the oil pump. I found it easier to remove the oil pump gear first to gain better access to the screws. The screws attaching the pump to the cases required a few whacks with the impact driver to remove. The oil pump o-rings in the cases were replaced with new ones. The paper towel is to prevent anything from falling into the oil pan.



New higher flow oil pump gears from Schnitz Racing. They're marketed for the 1100/1150 but they bolted right up in the 1000.



New(er) oil pump from a GS1000 which'd only done 15K miles vs. close to 35K on the original.

[80GS1000]

I re-installed the oil pump, using blue loctite on the screws and gave each screw a few good whacks with the impact driver to get them torqued well.

Installing the oil pump gear circlip. Make sure the oil pump gear is sitting properly on the oil pump shaft.



All done. Make sure to rotate the gears a few times by hand to ensure they're engaging the oil pump properly. The dark spots on the new idler gear are lube from the metal machining process I think.



The old tachometer drive would leak a few drops of oil when the engine was hot and the oil was thin. So it was replaced. Here's the old one.



Fresh OEM tach drive parts. I'm always pleasantly amazed Suzuki has all these new NOS parts for our bikes. :-)

[80GS1000]

New tachometer drive assembled.



And installed in the head. Sorry the motor's so greasy, planning on cleaning it for paint soon. Important to make sure the helical gear on the tach drive is seated correctly before tightening the mounting bolt on the drive. I turned the motor a few times by hand by the bolt under the ignition cover to make sure the new tach drive rotated smoothly.

[jwhelan65]

wow

80GS,

Just read though the last half of this thread... I need you for a week in my garage!

jw

[first timer]

I bought a bunch of allen head ss screws to replace all those philips bolts in the clutch area and some ss button head allen screws for the oil pump.

would you be intrested in buying some? It will be a good price.

your project is always looking good.

-Ryan

[80GS1000]

I bought a bunch of allen head ss screws to replace all those philips bolts in the clutch area and some ss button head allen screws for the oil pump.

would you be intrested in buying some? It will be a good price.

your project is always looking good.

-Ryan

Thanks, appreciate the offer but I think I'll pass.

There are 4 covers bolted on with phillips head bolts in the pic below, what are their functions? Also, what does the spring loaded thing in the bottom left do?

[briyenkieth]

Spring loaded thing is part of the transmission. I belive it's the back side of the shift shaft. I think this becuase when I had the cover off of mine it moved on me when I was fussing with my shifter. No clue what's behind the covers though. Gears maybe????

[jed.only]

Spring loaded thing is part of the transmission. I belive it's the back side of the shift shaft. I think this becuase when I had the cover off of mine it moved on me when I was fussing with my shifter. No clue what's behind the covers though. Gears maybe????

good idea, 5 slots, 5 speeds.

[Tarbash 27]

The piece all the way to the left is the shift shaft. The spring returns it to center after you shift. The piece to the right of it with the teeth connect to the shift drum with changes gears. The plates up top have gasket behind them that cover up oil passages. The plates on bottom hold the shift drum in place.