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GS1000 streetfighter idea w/ picture
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terbang
Originally posted by solo suzuki View Post
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johnnay
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solo suzuki
Originally posted by 80GS1000 View PostGreat looking 1100! Specs?
i've owned this bike since the late 80s but it's been this way (chassis) since 1994 when we adapted the 5.5in rear wheel/brake/swingarm off of a gsx R 1100. the inverted front end didn't stay on there for very long because of ground clearance. this is my do everything bike: riding instructor/two up week end rides etc. and i couldn't clear speed bumps around here...well i did but had to change the 4 into 1 so...i went back to the previous set up: gs1150 (EFE) front end, progressive springs etc. adapted the 17in. wheel,and the nissin 4p from the donor gsx R 1100, ferodo pads, 2nd gen. gsx F 290mm rotors, steel braded lines.
i could have raised the back end but wanted to keep the look, same reason i went for stereo shocks (works perf.) then there's the chain hitting the swingarm the higher you go etc. we did make a few mock ups before we grinded stuff off :-D
also, this was 1994, before internet for me and bike forums and ebay and...well i had never seen anybody else do this, plus around here everybody had a gsx R, so that made parts available when someone would crash an almost new bike with more cosmetic damage than the insurance were willing to pay for! \\/
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80GS1000
Justin-
Thanks for taking the time to make those Photoshop prototypes. You have some skills. :-D
I think the first one is the winner. I'd put a bit more rounded "scoop" in the front like the Yoshimura GS1000 racebike, except I'd add a bit more padding to the Yoshi bike too where the seat meets the tank to, um, protect the family lineage. So, for my bike, leave the front the same, but have a curved "scoop" up to the flat part. Ideally, it'd flow as a single line smoothly from the curves of the tank to the tailpiece.
I agree with you on the second one.
Off to the garage to play around with steering geometry some more. Picked up a inclinometer and a digital caliper so we can get all the steering geometry dimensions and angles worked out on the conservative side. When it comes to steering geometry, I'd rather err on the side of stability vs. instability. Wobbly geometry could be repaid in pain, hospital bills, or worse. Safety, then performance, then looks.
Nice rake/trail calculator here - plug in your dimensions, out pops your rake/trail figures.Last edited by Guest; 02-10-2007, 10:33 PM.
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80GS1000
Steering geometry, take two
As was mentioned before, I picked up an inclinometer(angle meter) and used it plus an electronic caliper and tape measure to measure the steering geometry of the bike. Then the numbers were plugged into here and an ideal (for now, will have to remeasure about twenty times more before committing) steering geometry was arrived at after a bit of effort. Much more scientific and accurate than the previous effort.
It also made the bike look much more stock - rear end isn't as high up. The riding position is better, much like as it was when the bike was stock. And reaching the ground is pretty easy now too.
Measuring steering head angle:
A rare (wink) right side view of the bike:
The familiar view without side panel, notice the change in the stance:
And with side panel, which now looks like it works with the lines of the machine again:
Last edited by Guest; 02-11-2007, 01:56 AM.
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80GS1000
Also stopped by a metal supply store to get some raw material for fabrication. There's a few high-stress-tolerant bolts hiding in the first rod from the front. The steel on that one is rated at 90,000 PSI yield, and 120,000 PSI tensile strength! Meaning, 90,000 pounds per square inch of sideways force would have to be applied to the bolt before it would bend, and you'd have to pull on it with 120k PSI for it to stretch. I think the frame would bend in half before that kind of force could be applied to the bike, so we're good for strength.
The bolts made from that rod will be used to mount the monoshock to the frame in the high stress areas.
The upper monoshock mounting plate will most likely also be made from this grade of steel, as will be the frame bracing that supports it.
The second, fatter rod will be turned into the bushing that matches up the GS pivot bolt with the inner diameter of the GSXR pivot point in the swingarm. The aluminum plate will become the electrical board for mounting under the seat.
Last edited by Guest; 02-11-2007, 02:11 AM.
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80GS1000
New GSXR 1000 wheel, rotor, and sprocket arrived tonight. The rim is straight this time. \\/ And, as a bonus, it already had a Michelin Pilot Power 180 radial mounted, same brand and model as the tire up front. :-D
Mounted the swingarm up on the bike and took measurements for sprocket offset, It's going to be tight for chain clearance, so we're going with a 520 chain and sprockets.
Also firmed up measurements and specifications for the monoshock mounts.
I'll post pics of those when they come back from the machine shop.
Pic with new rim mocked up:
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beergood
Congrats on getting good parts this time. Looks like things are coming along nicely.
If you're like me, you gotta be gettin really antsy to ride that thing.
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80GS1000
Originally posted by beergood View PostCongrats on getting good parts this time. Looks like things are coming along nicely.
If you're like me, you gotta be gettin really antsy to ride that thing.Last edited by Guest; 02-13-2007, 01:59 PM.
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Druro
That is some fine work... wish mine was moving at the same clip, but a month long business trip will kinda ruin plans.
One question: Who are you ordering your sprocket from? The only one i know is PMR. IF you've got some links on those, please let me know.
Cheers.
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80GS1000
Originally posted by Druro View PostThat is some fine work... wish mine was moving at the same clip, but a month long business trip will kinda ruin plans.
One question: Who are you ordering your sprocket from? The only one i know is PMR. IF you've got some links on those, please let me know.
Cheers.
JT Sprockets also has a great website with tech info on all their sprockets. Are you thinking of doing a chain conversion?
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Druro
Well, i'm mounting up GSXR 1100 front end with matching rim at the back, and I'm going to need to space things out.
My only question is with the sproket/spacers you plan to use, are you not worried about the length of the output shaft as it relates the number of threads available once it's spaced out? Is there enough length to bolt on the sproket and the spacers?
might want to take a look at that.
I'm going to look at those sproket setups... might use something similar, but for the gsxr1100 rim.
Cheers
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80GS1000
Originally posted by Druro View PostWell, i'm mounting up GSXR 1100 front end with matching rim at the back, and I'm going to need to space things out.
My only question is with the sproket/spacers you plan to use, are you not worried about the length of the output shaft as it relates the number of threads available once it's spaced out? Is there enough length to bolt on the sproket and the spacers?
might want to take a look at that.
I'm going to look at those sproket setups... might use something similar, but for the gsxr1100 rim.
Cheers
Another concern was making sure the steering stem was aligned with the center of the rear tire due to the difference in wheel spacers/rim diameter/swingarm width on the bike. Don't want a bike that pulls to once side or the other. Fortunately, it's dead center, so it'll track straight.Last edited by Guest; 02-14-2007, 12:46 PM.
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2Fast4U
Originally posted by 80GS1000 View PostThe amount of available threads is a concern for sure. We'll have to see if it works out once the parts arrive. Need about 2-3 exposed threads for security. If it doesn't work out, probably will wind up getting an offset front sprocket. Going for the least expensive solution initially - those offset front sprockets are $100+.
my sprocket was $45 with shipping from Japan to So Cal.
The guys are really nice to deal with.
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