Painting Bike parts

[jdub6092]

I have decided to paint my GS650e (Stardust silver)
I have watched countless videos on painting to include every aspect.
Still, im quite not sure of all the steps I need to take.
I found an NOS tank in the original color, so that's a big one out of the way.
This is what I have planned:
Plastic fairing pieces:
Fully stripped prepped and lightly scuffed.
1. 2 coats of adhesion promoter 10 minutes apart
2. Wait about an hour
3. Apply 2 coats of Upol 2253 primer in 4:1:2 ratio (as a sealer).
4. Let dry overnight
5. Apply 2-3 coats of base.
6. Wait a few hours.
7. Apply 2 coats of clear.
8. Wait 2 days (more than 24 hours)
9. Wet sand the clear with 1000-2000 grit.
10. Apply vinyl decals.
11. Wait at least 8 hours for decals to dry.
12. Apply 1 or 2 more coats clear.
13. Wait two days.
13. If imperfections are visible wetsand the clear with 2000 grit.
14. Buff out/polish.

Any corrections or adjustments to this long process would be appreciated.

[jdub6092]

20250408_204409.jpg Ready for paint.

Next the front fender.
May have filled in dings to soon as it is recommended to apply an epoxy primer before bondo fill. I can either sand off the bondo or go around those areas.
1.) Apply 2 wet coats of epoxy primer waiting for flash between coats (include underside.
2.) Fill in dings with bondo. Wait until cured.
3.) Sand smooth with 320 grit
4.) Apply two coats of Upol 2253.4:1:2 as a sealer.
5.) Let dry overnight
6.) Apply two 2-3 coats of base.
7.) Wait a few hours.
8.) Apply two coats of 2k clear.
9.) Wait 2 days.
10.) Sand clear with 1000-2000 grit.
11.) Apply Vinyl decals.
12.) Wait at least 8 hours for decals to fully dry
13.) Apply 1 or 2 more coats of clear.
14.) Sand out imperfections with 2000 grit.
15.) Buff/Polish.

[jdub6092]

20250408_211432.jpg prepped fender ready to paint.

[oldGSfan]

Is the adhesion promotor from a can? I fret about mixing can under/over with 'real' paint, except for catalyzed 2K clear, which I've used successfully. Directions for the rattle can primers never say what the top-coat can be, but advice on forums is stay away from them. I recently used an adhesion promoter for the first time, over a rusty and pitted hard-chromed brake lever I couldn't afford to replace with NOS one (on a Norton). It seems fine, I top-coated from a can of brake & caliper paint and waited a while, then baked it. Tricky stuff.. I will be interested to hear opinions.

[jdub6092]

Is the adhesion promotor from a can? I fret about mixing can under/over with 'real' paint, except for catalyzed 2K clear, which I've used successfully. Directions for the rattle can primers never say what the top-coat can be, but advice on forums is stay away from them. I recently used an adhesion promoter for the first time, over a rusty and pitted hard-chromed brake lever I couldn't afford to replace with NOS one (on a Norton). It seems fine, I top-coated from a can of brake & caliper paint and waited a while, then baked it. Tricky stuff.. I will be interested to hear opinions.

I will use adhesion promoter from a can, but only on the plastics. I will also use the Spraymax 2k clear from a can as I have rarely heard anything but praise for the outcome and have seen some pretty stunning results. The biggest complaints are the nozzle especially when the can is near empty.
Upol 2253 primer and base coats will be applied with a gun.

[Nessism]

When color sanding the clear, before the graphics, a gray scotchbrite is enough. It's equal to 600 grit. You want some tooth for the clear to hold on to, 1000-2000 is unnecessary, and may even be bad.

Another thing is to read the data sheet for each product you are spraying. Some products need to be topcoated within a critical recoat time, which means you need to work fast.

[oldGSfan]

When color sanding the clear, before the graphics, a gray scotchbrite is enough. It's equal to 600 grit. You want some tooth for the clear to hold on to, 1000-2000 is unnecessary, and may even be bad.

Another thing is to read the data sheet for each product you are spraying. Some products need to be topcoated within a critical recoat time, which means you need to work fast.

I have some OEM side covers, and that can of adhesion promoter from the chrome job. It will be interesting to follow your progress. When will you start?

Ed - So it's clear, then gray scotchbrite, then apply graphics and final clear? I need to get my butt in gear on my 2 sets of bodywork and that has been a hanging question for me.

[Nessism]

I have some OEM side covers, and that can of adhesion promoter from the chrome job. It will be interesting to follow your progress. When will you start?

Ed - So it's clear, then gray scotchbrite, then apply graphics and final clear? I need to get my butt in gear on my 2 sets of bodywork and that has been a hanging question for me.

Correct.

And FWIW, I don't bother with adhesion primer on hard plastic like sidecovers or the tail cowl. I use two pack epoxy primer, though.

[oldGSfan]

Correct.

And FWIW, I don't bother with adhesion primer on hard plastic like sidecovers or the tail cowl. I use two pack epoxy primer, though.

OK I have that stuff on hand, thanks.