Powdercoat Stripping

[J_C]

I can't get my new shocks on the posts because of the powdercoat; it's now too thick for it to fit. I need to remove this powdercoat just from the post (they taped the threads so that's not an issue) Anyone have any advice?

Cheers!

[Billy Ricks]

I can't get my new shocks on the posts because of the powdercoat; it's now too thick for it to fit. I need to remove this powdercoat just from the post (they taped the threads so that's not an issue) Anyone have any advice?

Cheers!

Oven cleaner works. Get the brush on type and be careful not to get it where you don't want it. It worked on my swingarm which paint strippers didn't touch. I'm assuming the swingarm was powder coated. It definitely was not paint.

[J_C]

Thanks for the response Billy. Unfortunately, the oven cleaner didnt seem to make a difference... anyone else have any ideas?

[txironhead]

A Dremel mini sanding drum (I think it's the 1/4" one) on medium to high speed with a VERY steady hand. If you have a drill bit that's exactly the size of the post, that'll work too.

[txironhead]

Okay, sorry, just reread the first post carefully. I'd use emery cloth strips, 400 to 600 grit. The Dremel bit will still work, too.

Was wondering why you'd powdercoated the shocks......duh.8-[

[J_C]

Cool! I don't have emery cloth but I did try 400 grit sandpaper. I thought the powdercoat would be too tough for it but it all came out ok!

My freshly powdercoated frame has been raising hell all day. I can't get the brake pedal base thing through the frame either.

[feelergaugephil]

To be quite honest here mate, whoever powdercoated your stuff should have complete knowledge in bead blasting up your stuff then PROPERLY taping everything off.....
I have a lot of stuff powdercoated and they ALWAYS get it right...
saying that, many years ago when I was 16, I had a Kawasaki AR80 frame powdwercoated, and they never taped ANTHING off, I had to have ALL the threads, rethreaded....
Becareful who does your work for you..........

[txironhead]

Cool! I don't have emery cloth but I did try 400 grit sandpaper. I thought the powdercoat would be too tough for it but it all came out ok!

My freshly powdercoated frame has been raising hell all day. I can't get the brake pedal base thing through the frame either.

A dremel sanding drum will take care of that. I'd use fine grit just to prevent gouging the metal. Or, you could just roll up some sandpaper and twist it around in there, but it'll take a little longer. On areas like that, after you get it back to bare metal, I like to put some axle grease or something similar to lube it and keep it from rusting.

[KEITH KRAUSE]

The shop can't always know if the extra thickness of powdercoating will cause a problem on a certain part. It's always best if the parts are discussed first. The person bringing in the parts needs to alert them to possible problems. The person bringing the parts in would know how the parts came apart and how they'll go back and if powdercoating can cause fit problems.
In this case, I've had this same shop do work for me but I took the time to show them things that could be a problem. Depending on your experience with bikes and powdercoating, I can see how something can get missed or whatever.

[Commodus]

I always use a wire brush on an angle grinder. I've done it lots!! - I've given up on trying to communicate with my local powder coaters - they do OK work, but they're collectively about as sharp as a bag of bowling balls.

Tomorrow I will find out if a carbon steel brush on my dremel will do it - I think it will.

I don't really recommend using the chemicals, not to step on others suggestions but it just seems like a recipe for an expensive disaster - but I guess that's just if you're a klutz like me.

[Pharkmeh]

....I always use a wire brush on an angle grinder. I've done it lots!! .....

doesnt the handle smack ya in the face alot .... :shock:

[txironhead]

*groans*#-o

[J_C]

I don't blame the powdercoaters. They taped off almost everything with threads. Theyre's just small fitment issues. Today I couldn't fit the rear break lever mount through the frame so I used a steel brush wheel on a dremmel and that did the trick. Thanks for the advice folks!~

[txironhead]

I don't know what I'd do without my dremel, and it's not even a "brand name" dremel! It's whatever the Wal-Mart brand is, cost me $20, and IMO works a hell of a lot better than my old "actual" Dremel! Wouldn't mind one of the new high-power cordless Dremels, though.....

If you are going broke buying bits for your Dremel, I recommend you check out Harbor Freight Tools, online or (if you're lucky enough) at an outlet. I picked up a HUGE assortment set, something like 300pc., for a whopping $12. The flap sander alone cost $9 "name brand", and it also came with standard, heavy duty and reinforced cutoff wheels, wire wheels, drill bits (for wood only!), grinding stones (fine and coarse), polishing wheels and bits, a lot more I can't remember, all of the arbors/spindles and 3 different collets so you can run really small diameter bits in your Dremel. All of it is self-contained in a yellow and clear plastic case. It might not be quite as good quality as brand name, but in the three months I've had it it's paid for itself a hundred times over. I should have bought more sets.

[fast eddie]

I had to remove some powdercoating (which had completely filled in the VIN #, try and explain that to a suspicious cop!). I used a paint stripper we can get up here called 'Circa 1850' and it came off in no time. Just masked off the required area, made sure there were no drips, let it sit as per instructions (about 15 mins I think), wipe it off, use a wire brush to get it out of the nooks and crannies, and there you go.