1150 fairing on 1100E Update - twisty

[Mike McNaney]

So I decided to mock up the fairing on my bike yesterday to see how it would look as far as stance, height etc.
If you dont remember the previous thread, I got a full 1150EF fairing and framework that was in great shape with paint that matches my bike for $125 and asked questions in this post about fitment. Crag Antler had done this before and with his pics and answers I was ready to jump in. Not really just now but....

Anyway, so I decided to mock it up yesterday quickly and see what its going to look like.
Now I have a unique situation in that my bike lives in the house with me. In the dining room actually. I recommend this to everyone too because you can sit and think comfortably whilst doing your tweaking.

So thats what I was doing yesterday and whilst I was sitting I remembered an idea from Pano about making it a cafe' style. Im interested in this since my love of standards and cafe' is why i like the E model. One thing led to the next and POOF, The mock up is now of the upper part cut to fit the stock 1100E light and upper. IM STOKED.
I think it looks fabulous, It weighs next to nothing, Cuts the wind same as the intended mounting and turns with the forks as a cafe' style "should".
Heres a pic of the final mock up without windscreen, just taped in place.

http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h310/1970A-100/fairmock.jpg

I'll bet this same mod would work on any Suzuki standard if you add the big lite. I'll post the finished pics too. Probably in a week or so. If anybody wants to do this too, let me know and I'll share the process.

Its looking real easy.

[Billyboy]

Cool Mike. I'm really interested in how you did that I've got an 1150 fairing and want to put it on the GS1000. Please. Email, pics, instructions. That might just be the way to go for me.

[Mike McNaney]

As happens alot when sitting comfortably pondering the project in your dining room. It occured to me that the fairing looks a little high in the air when put on the E model. Even cut down and put on the stock E lamp with no framework. I found some profiles of the 1150 EF and then looked at the setup on crag antlers and my mock up and it is definately higher up by an inch or two.

As it turns out, it looks like the light frame ears will slide down the forks to lower the headlamp and hence the fairing if the air valve bungs for the forks are removed. Removing the air capability for the forks is in a plan I have for rebuilding the front forks with a lowering kit and cartridge emulators.
So now that I have thought of it, I wont be satismisfied with the fairing install if I dont try to install it in a lower position so... it looks like the forks are getting the treatment before the fairing goes on so I can get rid of the air bungs and lower the brackets. Stretches the project out further than I wanted but I cant think of a good reason not to.

So I ordered the rebuild and lowering kit from Race Tech today and they said it would be here by Friday. I got the kit to include seals, bushings, new springs guaged to my bodyweight, lowering parts/instructions, Cartridge emulators and 30w oil.
Once I get the stuff I should get it done within a week.
Stay tuned and I'll let everybody know how it goes.

Does anybody want me to go over the fork rebuild/upgrade in the performance post? Let me know and I'll start one up when I get going.

[Mike McNaney]

OK. problems with the forks and other stuff have really ****ed me off but it doesnt keep me from following thru with the fairing install....cafe' style.

It turns out that it is real easy. Im posting some pics of the process but not the end yet. That will come when I put it back on for good after the front forks are sorted out.

Ive had it on and completely bolted down in place and it looks great and works great and its in a lower position by about one inch than if installed with the framework. The whole thing took a couple hours.

I started by taking the top fairing completely apart. No screen, mirrors inners, markers, nothing. I cut the lower part back in a shape that conforms slightly to to windscreen and to the lines of the tank. At full lock to lock on the bars, the sides dont touch the tank by about 1/4".
If you want the measurements I ended up with after cutting away, little by little untill perfect, let me know but I cant do the arc cut for you. You have to eyeball that. I have put a pvc edging channel around it that has a glue inside and stays in place perfectly. It gives a factory finish on the edges. you need this type of stuff around the edges of the headlamp opening or it will rattle. Ive used windshield wiper fluid rubber tubing slit down the side before I found this stuff.
You have to cut away at the bottom for the forks. You dont have to do as much as I did but you do have to leave enough good meat for the lower bracket attachments. (pictured).
The lower brackets are a little MacGuyver idea I had while pondering comfortably. Left hand southern style..
the lower brackets are actually the front side marker reflector brackets sans reflector and flipped around sideways facing forward. (pictured).
You put them on as pictured and tighten the lower tube bolt to hold it in place. When you get the bottom of the fairing cut out just enough for the forks where the headlamp opening will flush up against the headlamp tight you reach in and mark the bracket hole, drill and mount. The headlamp wont go thru the hole in the fairing. The fairing lines up on the trim ring around the light. You should hold it tight and work to make this a snug fit to keep from getting rattles but keep it off the glass or it will melt and or discolor. (Ive put on several cafe fairings).
Once the lowers are on and mounted, you can do the tops. Looks like the best place to put a bracket is from the upper tube bolt to the available bung on the fairing. I made mine from aluminum strap and painted black. Pictured. You're on you own there too but all it takes is a hacksaw and drill. I also used a dremel, vice and crecent wrench. Once bolted down, It is very rigid. Solid actually.

I decided to use the bar mirrors instead of the fairing mounts so I'll pug those holes when I re-paint.

The turn signals mount straight forward and there is enough extra wire to let hang out the back of the headlanp and hook up with no problems.

Besides eliminating the air on my forks and lowering the headlamp, I also lowered the instrument cluster and bent the tabs a bit so that the cluster faces a more nearly straight back stance. I Likes it.

Thats all for now. More later. Questions?



OR

http://s67.photobucket.com/albums/h310/1970A-100/?action=view&current=sideview.jpg

http://s67.photobucket.com/albums/h310/1970A-100/?action=view&current=lowerbracket.jpg

http://s67.photobucket.com/albums/h310/1970A-100/?action=view&current=bottomcut.jpg

http://s67.photobucket.com/albums/h310/1970A-100/?action=view&current=assoc.jpg

http://s67.photobucket.com/albums/h310/1970A-100/?action=view&current=dashview.jpg

[crag antler]

Looking sharp.
Must be nice to have a warm place to work on your bike.
Cold as my garage is, I'm having to buy another tank of propane before I can get back out there.
Lil woman really wouldn't let me bring the bike in the house.

[Billyboy]

Looking sharp.
Must be nice to have a warm place to work on your bike.
Cold as my garage is, I'm having to buy another tank of propane before I can get back out there.
Lil woman really wouldn't let me bring the bike in the house.

My problem too.

[Mike McNaney]

OK. I'll take the next pics outside. That is a universal impedement that women have. Dislike of machinery on the dining table I mean. Ppffft.

I put the forks back together freshly after finding out that there really isnt anything to do to make them better other than upgrading to later model forks which isnt what Im after. Race Tech was of absolutely no help and really didnt know whether to scratch there watch or wind their ass. Im fed up with them. Their sales dept is a joke. Girls. Dont know their product, their catalog or anything about motorcycles.

Anyway, I then put the fairing on and went for a test ride in the mist.
I think its a keeper. wind hits me on the nose and elbows only. I could probably get a flip up windscreen to deflect higher if I want to later. Makes it a much more comfy on the highway.

Please excuse the tank emblem skewed up. Its one of the last things from the previous owner to be fixed. The tank is also very rusty inside and will be replaced with a NOS one I found last year. Now that the fairing is taken care of, the paint job is coming soon. Havent decided yet whether Im going stock or Jazz it up a bit.



or

http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h310/1970A-100/fairingon.jpg

[GregM.]

OK. I'll take the next pics outside. That is a universal impedement that women have. Dislike of machinery on the dining table I mean. Ppffft.]



LOL! Yeah, back in my teens, my mom used to get so mad at me when I would use something from the kitchen, that I thought was the perfect tool for some car or m/c project. :-D And just a year ago, I was rebuilding the fuel petcock on the kitchen table... Guess I haven't changed much in 35 years :? ...
BTW (this is from me, Greg) I'm just learning this quote thing. Obviously don't have it figuered out yet.



[I put the forks back together freshly after finding out that there really isnt anything to do to make them better other than upgrading to later model forks which isnt what Im after. Race Tech was of absolutely no help and really didnt know whether to scratch there watch or wind their ass. Im fed up with them. Their sales dept is a joke. Girls. Dont know their product, their catalog or anything about motorcycles.

Anyway, I then put the fairing on and went for a test ride in the mist.
I think its a keeper. wind hits me on the nose and elbows only. I could probably get a flip up windscreen to deflect higher if I want to later. Makes it a much more comfy on the highway.

Please excuse the tank emblem skewed up. Its one of the last things from the previous owner to be fixed. The tank is also very rusty inside and will be replaced with a NOS one I found last year. Now that the fairing is taken care of, the paint job is coming soon. Havent decided yet whether Im going stock or Jazz it up a bit.



or
http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h3.../fairingon.jpg

It looks awesome Mike \\/ perfectly balanced... like it was a factory design. And I vote for RED paint! It looks great just the way it is now... Can't wait to see it in person. Let's try to set up another ride in late March. I'll talk to Jon... And maybe there are some others to join us too.

[Billyboy]

Looks great mike. I need more pics though. Different angles, please.

[Mike McNaney]

OK. Here ya go.
My favorite is the slight rear view.
After a short ride today, I really like it. Im glad I didnt mount the frame work now. I might look and see now if I can find a chin spoiler from an ES model and see if it will go on without the middles. The gears are always turning.
Anybody need the upper fairing and side pieces framework? I already got rid of the side panels though to a buddy of mine.

http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h310/1970A-100/rearview.jpg

http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h310/1970A-100/frntside.jpg

http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h310/1970A-100/rearside.jpg

http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h310/1970A-100/seated.jpg

[Mike McNaney]

Hey Greg. Thanks man I think its hot too. Cruising Alki beach is going to be fun this summer. Lots of bikes and girls. Two of my favorite things. This bruiser will fit right in now that the fugly is going away.
Give me a call or PM or whatever the next time we have a good day and we'll ride the Island here.

[Billyboy]

Awesome Mike. How did you mount it. It looks like you used part of the frame on the bottom, and where did the brackets up top go?

[Mike McNaney]

There is a pic of the bottom mount in a previous paragraph. It might not work the same for you though. Unless your front side marker is the same fashion. I used the side marker reflector bracket that was bolted on by the lower tube clamp bolts already. I just unscrewed the reflector and fliped it a round to face front as pictured. Worked like a charm on both sides and the 5mm bolts that now hold it there hold the fairing real tight. You could probably find a set of those easy enough.

I think the biggest thing to remember when doing this is to cut shorter rather than longer. Cant put it back on if you go too far. Measure twice cut once for sure. I cut the sides five times to whittle it down to match the tank when turning.

[crag antler]

I have a few spare 1150 chin fairings if you like one.
One is an aftermarket,Lockhart,I believe and the other 2 Suzuki.
The Lockhart is in good shape, the 2 Suzi's need minor bodywork. I plan on using one of them.
If you would like a photo,I could send you one.

You can snag a really nice new windshield here:arrow:

http://www.bikescreen.com/proddetail.asp?prod=AirTechSuzukiGS1150ES%6084%2D%60852

I'm going for the one with the 2 inch extra

[Mike McNaney]

Ya crag Ive seen Gustafsons and might get one of those later. The one I have now is brand new from zero gravity. They only have stock size but all the same tints as gustafson plus predrilled and $20 less. If you get one, Id like to see it on the fairing to see what kind of flip or length it is.

I would like to see a pic of the spoilers you have. How does the lockhart differ from stock?

Oh Ya. Billy Boy. The top brackets can bee seen in the previous pics. It goes from the upper tube clamp bolt to the upper most inner skirt attachment bung. Im not using the inner skirts so no problem. I did use as long a sheetmetal screw as possible, going longer than was there. This attachment spot is probably the weakest link in the install but seems very solid when attached.
The brackets are just some mild aluminum strap I got from Home Depot. The alum was best I think since the attachment points arent on right angles to one another and the alum twists perfectly and easily but still of a large enough size to be rigid. I think the strap I started with was .75" wide, 3mm thick in a 3 foot length. When done, the brackets are 6-8 inches long.
The fork tube attachment side of the bracket also is slotted instead of just a round hole for attachment so the bracket can slide back and forth a bit for alignment.

I ended up doing the same to the fairing on the bottom attachment points also. I slotted the holes in the fairing at the bottom attachement points so that you can adjust the headlamp up and down etc. important since the fairing is pressed up to and aligns mainly on the headlamp trim ring.