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4 to 1 exhaust also painting issues

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    #16
    so this is what i'm now planning on doing..... i'm gonna throw like four mour coats of retardly thick coats down and HOPE for wrinkle... thats right you heard me.... then i'm gonna bury it in clear coat (kinda like how you bury pin strip lines and graphics) build up the clear coat around it then coat the wrinkles.... then wet sand... spray a LIGHT clear coat layer ....let it cure a LONGGGGGGGGG time and then GO TO TOWN with rubbing compound........ or maybe not
    Last edited by Guest; 05-25-2007, 01:39 PM.

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      #17
      Subsequent coats of paint will only amplify the wrinkles. I dunno if it'll work...

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        #18
        thats kinda the idea.... visable wrinkles that you can't feel...... if it looks like crap i can always sand it down again........ haven't started with the tank yet

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          #19
          Ok..... so my last idea was a dumb one...so dumb i didn't even try it.....

          I sanded down all the way AGAIN......(so sick of sanding) but saw a can of krylon highgloss blue in my garage ....... so i ditched the Dupi color and gave it a shot....... no wrinkles, NOT ONE (I even like the blue better too, brighter) .... now i just have to find more cans of matching paint

          also something i ran into, i used up all my old glazing putty and had to buy a new tube....... the stuff out of the new tube (same brand, bondo) ate the paint out from under it and.......WRINKLED:twisted:

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            #20
            Originally posted by swrupert83 View Post
            Ok..... so my last idea was a dumb one...so dumb i didn't even try it.....

            I sanded down all the way AGAIN......(so sick of sanding) but saw a can of krylon highgloss blue in my garage ....... so i ditched the Dupi color and gave it a shot....... no wrinkles, NOT ONE (I even like the blue better too, brighter) .... now i just have to find more cans of matching paint

            also something i ran into, i used up all my old glazing putty and had to buy a new tube....... the stuff out of the new tube (same brand, bondo) ate the paint out from under it and.......WRINKLED:twisted:
            Are you using primer?? I didnt have any of these problems..8-[ I used Duplicolor...gotta make sure ir dries for at least an hour before putting paint over it...
            Also, look on the labels...I was told not to mix enamel with laquer..
            Hope you get it right!:-D

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              #21
              ](*,) no, i thought i could get away with it, but obviously no....since the onlything i painted with the krylon was the front fender and part of one of the side panels..... i'll prime THEN glaze putty, THEN paint the rest..... why are shortcuts never short grr

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                #22
                Originally posted by swrupert83 View Post
                ](*,) no, i thought i could get away with it, but obviously no....since the onlything i painted with the krylon was the front fender and part of one of the side panels..... i'll prime THEN glaze putty, THEN paint the rest..... why are shortcuts never short grr
                I *think* you're supposed to do the putty first, let it cure for 24 hours, then use the primer, etc...

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                  #23
                  The reactions you are having are due to several reasons. 1. You are applying the paint to thick and not allowing enough flash time between coats. 2. When you sanded down to the original red of the bike it is most likely a laquer paint, You MUST prime to bury the laquer other wise it will keep wrinkling on you. fill in the areas that you need to with the glazing putty and let dry sand smooth then prime the whole parts allowing flash time between coats. Sand smooth again but DO NOT BUST THROUGH the primer or you will have to prime again. Thats the best advice I can really offer I have not used rattlecan paint since I was in my early teens ( 14 - 15 ). I am a professional painter and only use Dupont products on all my own projects. Thats just me though I understand that a lot of you don't have spray guns or compressors to use professional two part auto paint. And it is a lot more exspensive. Just make sure you prime then prep the parts by wiping with wax and grease remover and taking off with a tack cloth before you apply color. Apply light to medium coats allowing at least 10 - 15 mins flash time between coats. If you do this you should have no problems. One more last note on the subject, being a painter for the last 14 years in the collision repair buisness I can tell you there are NO SHORTCUTS in painting. If you shortcut the preparation process and the application process you will always end up with one problem or another.

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                    #24
                    yeah... i know.... i've painted my truck and jeep before using "real" paint (single stage urethane)..... i just didn't want to wait for the paint to ship to my house, also i haven't seen my spray gun in about 3 years... so i'm not too sure if i still have it... considering the time and the amount of paint cans i've gone through i think it would have been cheaper to just order the paint .....and then i wouldn't have to worry about gas drippin on my tank

                    thing is, i'm not really a short cut taker either... and i believe it will be a long time till i do it again

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