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    Dual Headlight Conversion

    Fresh off the transporter from Wisconsin, my GS550LX, as does so many others, only has one headlight. On the used parts market (read: eBay) a "replacement" headlight assembly from front bezel to rubber insulator can be had for cheap. I say "replacement" in quotes because what I'd like to do is simply add another headlight to the perfectly operational one already on the bike.

    The motivation for this is four-fold. 1) The most likely pattern of my riding will requite quite a bit of night riding and anything to help me see and be seen at night is a plus. 2) A second headlight, independently switchable, guarantees headlight availability, even if far from a supply of new bulbs late at night, 3) The addition of a second headlight seems a relatively straight forward, yet technicly challenging fabrication task. and 4) looking for ways to make my bike my own, I think it'd just look cool.

    I briefly considered an tandem arrangement, one over another, but even accounting for partial occluding, in order to keep the lower light high enough to not hit the front fender at full suspension travel, the upper light would have to be just too high.

    Side-by-side, though commonplace, will provide ample challenge for this fabrication novice, and can still be done in a novel and astheticly pleasing manner.

    Obviously, two of the major challenges in a side-by-side dual headlight conversion would be fabrication of new left and right brackets for the forks and upgrading of the wiring from the fusebox, through the handlebar switches, to the buckets for the higher current draw on two halogen bulbs. I know this could add additional stress to an electrical system already known to be prone to failures, but I have a plan to deal with that, which will likely be performed before this mini-project.

    Interference with the gauges, especially the tach and speedo cables can't be discounted either, but as I'd like to see mine rise a little higher and angle back a little more, I see no reason why that problem should be a show-stopper. With the two headlights separated from the centerline, there will also be ample room in front of the gauges for the new bracket to also house the wiring which was formerly housed in the single headlight bucket, minimizing the disturbance to the existing wiring harness. With fewer wires running in andout of the bucket(s), I'd likely weld up the outside holes in the two buckets completely, and might even see fit to weld fillers into the remaining (inside) holes to make them smaller to prevent the insides of the buckets from collecting anything I wouldn't want them to.

    While in the fabrication and rewiring mood, I'd like to make the outside pivot points hollow to allow for the mounting of the forward marker lights directly to the headlight brackets with the wiring coming from within the buckets themselves.

    For extended bulb life, especially during daytime riding, a switch could be added to the left switch cluster to variably switch which light(s) should be active: left-only, both, or right-only.

    This next part is prolly going a bit far, but I have a tendency to over-engineer everything I put my mind too. Just because my BRC instructor showed off the power headlight tilt feature of his Honda tourer, an R/C servo could be installed to electricly tilt both headlights up and down with the use of a rheostat, also added to the left-hand switch cluster, or on the handlebars.

    Whether I do the whole enchilada of this idea or not, I'll be scrubbing the headlight bucket out and applying a rust remover before painting every part of it that's not electrified inside and out. How hot does the rim of the glass get? Surely it wouldn't require engine/furnace paint.

    So... whattayathink?

    #2
    Photobucket is down so you'll have to settle for a thumbnail

    Mid 80's GSX R

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      #3
      or go aftermarket. type in motorcycle dual headlight and you'll get multiple results

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        #4
        or type "redneck lawnmower" in your search and get this (but frankly I just needed any excuse to post this pic)

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          #5
          Wow, my best friend just emailed me that pic today. Small e-world.

          Although I think the rheostat setup is a bit much, these bikes looks surprisingly nice with the dual headlight setup. I'd probably go with either an aftermarket kit (nice, new parts are always good) or swap out with a bike that already has the setup, like the GSXR posted.

          If you decide to go completely your route, I'd recommend using Dupli-Color Engine Enamel (I recommend this stuff a lot, don't I?). I've used it for everything from headlight buckets, to engines, frames, you name it. Lasts a really long time. If you have heavy rust inside the bucket, though, you may want to look at Rustoleum, but I'd just sand it as clean as possible and use a treatment like Ospho to "cure" the rust, then paint.

          You say you have a plan to thwart the electrical gremlins, care to share the info? So far I haven't had problems, but I like taking care of potential breakdowns before getting stranded at 3am.

          Now if you could come up with a retractable dual headlight setup that fits the bike physically and aesthetically, that would be the ultimate setup. Then your rheostat setup probably could be tied into the whole assembly.

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by txironhead View Post
            I'd probably go with either an aftermarket kit (nice, new parts are always good) or swap out with a bike that already has the setup, like the GSXR posted.
            But where's the fun in that? ;-) I'll admit, if I could find a new set of brackets I could modify rather than bang one up from flat 3/16 stock, I'd rather to that route, but I tend to get very particular (peculiar?) about my ideas about how I want my bike to look.

            Originally posted by txironhead View Post
            If you decide to go completely your route, I'd recommend using Dupli-Color Engine Enamel (I recommend this stuff a lot, don't I?). I've used it for everything from headlight buckets, to engines, frames, you name it. Lasts a really long time. If you have heavy rust inside the bucket, though, you may want to look at Rustoleum, but I'd just sand it as clean as possible and use a treatment like Ospho to "cure" the rust, then paint.
            I've already invested in Rustoleum (can less than $4/can for three cans be termed an investment?) but they don't make their engine paint in the shade I want. Duplicolor gets damn close, so for high heat purposes, I'll use Duplicolor.

            There's heavy surface rust all over this bike. I saw Stacy David in his new show Gearz demonstrate using a battery charger and a large plastic bin of water with sodium bicarb in it to electrolysize away all the rust on an large axle pumpkin. I figure I can use that technique to help restore all of the smaller rusted parts on my bike, some of the worst being inside the taillight/license plate bucket, chain guard, and starter cover. Using it on the headlight bucket is, if nothing else, my mild OCD demanding uniformity.

            Once cleaned up, rust free, and sanded smooth, Rustoleum has a primer, color, and clear coat system I want to try. Ideally, the bike would get a uniform fender to fender color of a 1966 Ford Shelby GT350 color, code G, "Sapphire Blue Metallic". Rusto didn't have Sapphire, so for now, I'm settling on Cobalt Blue Metallic.

            For the engine block and covers, though, Dupli has "Dark Ford Blue" in its engine paint line. The diff will be noticeable, but maybe only from close up, and with Burk's chrome allen head bolt kit, maybe it won't matter.

            Originally posted by txironhead View Post
            You say you have a plan to thwart the electrical gremlins, care to share the info? So far I haven't had problems, but I like taking care of potential breakdowns before getting stranded at 3am.
            In essence, it involves making the dual headlights the only 2 (4?) incandescent filaments on the entire bike and convert the brakelight(s), marker lights, and gauge cluster over to LEDs. That prolly wouldn't completely offset the electrical load of the added headlight, but it'd help. Also carry a spare RR on the bike at all times, and replace the stator with a brand new one the first hint of a problem with it.

            Originally posted by txironhead View Post
            Now if you could come up with a retractable dual headlight setup that fits the bike physically and aesthetically, that would be the ultimate setup. Then your rheostat setup probably could be tied into the whole assembly.
            Retractable? Where are the buckets supposed to retract to? They're hanging out there in space. My idea for the rheostat would just be a simple thumb actuated control with positive detents at certain positions to be able to aim the high beam anywhere from 10' in front of the bike to 75 feet (legal maximum for the brightest part of the beam in Indiana).

            With fixed pivot points (center, left, and right), that could be accomplished by welding a short 1/4" thick rod toward the back on the center-line side of each bucket pointing at each other, then placing over them a plastic lined metal tube which is controlled by an R/C servo motor hidden inside the brackets with the wiring harness. The servo pushes the tube and rods up, the headlights point down in unison. The servo pushes the tube and rods down, the headlights point up, still in unison.

            Now, if I wanted to get really fancy, I could tie in a second servo slaved to the steering and/or a tilt sensor such that the inside headlight could also turn deeper into a corner than the handlebars alone could afford, leaving the outside headlight pointing where it was pointing relative to the forks prior to entering the turn. But the physical geometry for such a thing would be a nightmare to work out.
            Wait a minute. I've got it! Power mirror actuators! Brilliant! <img> You'll find I get very dangerous ideas from the slightest inspiration.

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by Cathy344 View Post
              There's heavy surface rust all over this bike. I saw Stacy David in his new show Gearz demonstrate using a battery charger and a large plastic bin of water with sodium bicarb in it to electrolysize away all the rust on an large axle pumpkin.
              funny, i saw him do that on Trucks. i didnt know he had another show

              Comment


                #8
                I got the sense that he was forced out of his show Trucks unwillingly, so he just went to another producer and forged ahead with his new show Gearz, where he works on more than just trucks. First show I ever saw was all about resurrecting an amphibious ATV from the 70's, that steered by a
                articulating the frame, by sticking a more modern snowmobile engine in it. That kind of inventiveness is what drew me to car fix up shows in the first place.

                I still watch Spike's Powerblock if for no other reason than Lou Santiago is a hoot, but I'm more likely to be caught watching ESPN2's Metric Revolution (although the season's over now) and Gearz. I'll prolly send Stacy a pic of my bike once I get it all done to see if he'll use it on the show.

                Getting back on topic...

                I need to look up a proper set of instructions for doing the bicarb electro thing to make sure I'm doing it right, like how much bicarb to how much water, my charger only puts out 1.5A and Stacy said a minimum of 2 (but that was for an axle pumpkin that weighed 20 lbs. if it weighed an ounce, not lightweight motorcycle parts), and I don't have a steel rod to use as the other electrode, would a strap of aluminum work just as well?

                Comment


                  #9
                  What would be really cool if you could have the headlights aim closer and further out based on what speed your at. With the rheostat controlling how quickly it changes.

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                    #10
                    Amperage and the concentration of baking soda should only affect the time required to remove rust.

                    You might consider using a headlight modulator, too. Wire it up to switch from left to right, there should be a way to do that. You sound like enough of an engineer to figure it out.
                    sigpic[Tom]

                    “The greatest service this country could render the rest of the world would be to put its own house in order and to make of American civilization an example of decency, humanity, and societal success from which others could derive whatever they might find useful to their own purposes.” George Kennan

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Rust removal

                      Here's a video for rust removal:



                      Here's a product that is NOT an acid for removing rust:

                      Compare our large selection of rust removers. Same day shipping.


                      Good luck!:-D

                      Comment


                        #12
                        I believe it's called electrolysis or electrolytic rust removal. Basically, it's reverse plating. I wouldn't recommend aluminum. There's been some topics here on it, mainly how to remove rust from the inside of a gas tank. Don't see why it wouldn't work on other items.

                        I could be wrong on the terminology.

                        You had a point on where to hide the flipup headlight setup. I get crazy ideas myself.

                        Since you occasionally watch Powerblock, you may have seen the Budget Bronco buildup. While I think they skimped a little too much on my favorite truck in the world (new body bushings and lift kit without even sandblasting and painting the frame? c'mon....spend the $30 on spray paint) they did show some new paint by Dupli-Color, EPA approved lacquer that is supposed to hold up pretty good and is a lot cheaper than pro jobbing it. However, they don't make metallic that I know of, but if they make Grabber Green that's the system I'll use.

                        How about modifying a setup from power side mirrors on cars for your headlights? You'd get the vertical and horizontal movement in one compact package. Not sure how you'd get the return-to-center, but I'm not going to figure everything out for you!:-D I was just looking at the mirror that was broken off our old car and it seems very compact, easy to wire and should be strong enough.

                        Keep us updated, this is the backyard mechanical Frankenstein stuff that I love!

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by speedzter2000 View Post
                          Bloody, buggery bollocks! I saw that broadcast! How did I not remember that in the first place? I definitely saw Stacy David do it on Gearz more recently, though. They say the mind's the first thing to go.

                          Are you sure an aluminum anode won't work?

                          Originally posted by txironhead View Post
                          How about modifying a setup from power side mirrors on cars for your headlights? You'd get the vertical and horizontal movement in one compact package. Not sure how you'd get the return-to-center, but I'm not going to figure everything out for you!:-D I was just looking at the mirror that was broken off our old car and it seems very compact, easy to wire and should be strong enough.
                          Originally posted by Cathy344 View Post
                          Wait a minute. I've got it! Power mirror actuators! Brilliant! <img> You'll find I get very dangerous ideas from the slightest inspiration.
                          Hi, Tex. Welcome to the thread. So nice of you to join us. ;-) Just ribbin' ya.

                          I don't know how that came to my mind in the first place, but great minds think alike and all that. I'll prolly see if I can snag a pair of power wing mirrors on my next hunting trip to the junk yard for parts for my crown vic. Might even be able to rehabilitate the 2-in-1 joystick I had to replace off my CV a while back. (I'm a congenital pack-rat, I never throw anything away.) I'll have to get eyes-on the actual power mirror motors and mechanics to get the wheels turning on how to employ them in a full 2-D power headlight control system for Suzi. (Yeah, naming a girl's GS550 Suzi, real imaginative there, but I have better things to expend my imagination on.)

                          Shouldn't be too hard to press a Microchip PIC microcontroller into service to handle the actual aiming of the buckets and provide the necessary emergency return-to-center function. Prolly have to use limit switches and hard coded dead reckoning to avoid using shaft encoders or something equally overly complex bit of engineering to insure return-to-center.

                          Only problem I might find with that is I'm having some difficulty finding the right op amps to bridge from the TTL of a microcontroller's DIO pins to the 3-12 VDC and much higher current of an automotive device whether a small motor like the ones in a power mirror actuator or a grid of LEDs to replace the marker lights.

                          Anyone know of a high density package of over a dozen op amps that can switch up to, say, 12 V at around 20 mA, with about 500 Ohms per output channel that can well tolerate PWM switching frequencies?

                          Just wondering, `cause I haven't found anything like that yet. If I could, I might think about going another step and replacing the halogen headlights altogether with a grid of about 300 white LEDs.

                          Originally posted by txironhead View Post
                          Keep us updated, this is the backyard mechanical Frankenstein stuff that I love!
                          It's pronounced FRAHNKenSHTEEN! (I'm not really a big Gene Wilder fan. I just find that line hillarious.)

                          I've still got a laundry list of things to do to it just to get it roadworthy:
                          Brake pads on the way
                          Flush and bleed the brakes
                          New tires on the way
                          Balance the carbs

                          There will be some early scrubbing (not a little with a rust removal wheel on my angle grinder) and repainting, but only the egregiously rusty parts and the fenders, but until I've personally clocked about 250 miles on it myself, trouble free, I'll prolly hold off on any preparations for mods like the dual headlight mod I started this thread to get opinions on. And yeah, it's all getting documented on the web.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            It was 2:30 am, there were too many big words in there, and my mother-in-law's visiting for a week. Right now a gorilla could walk up to me and hand me a pancake shaped like an Edsel and about five minutes later I'd probably make some brilliant comment like "but I don't eat breakfast normally!"

                            I need to look up some links for some catalogs I get that are just chock-full of equipment like you mentioned. All kinds of "build your own robot or inverse transducer mega-gigawatt death ray" stuff.

                            Right now I've got to go and be subjected to hours of "cultural education". Fun.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              I coworker and friend of mine way-layed a deer with his Saturn the other day. He wasn't injured and insurance will be picking up most of the cost of the repair. The driver's side wing mirror was nearly ripped off, but it was hanging in there, but will need to be replaced. I asked him if it was a power mirror and he said yes. I asked him if he could be sure to tell the garage to toss the old mirror in the backseat for me rather than their own dumpster and he said yes.

                              So, soon, I could have a still functional power mirror actuator to play with. Power dual headlights might not be so far off after all. :twisted:

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