Aluminum cleaner/polish

[GaThumper]

Different parts have different finishes from stock. It's the engine cases that are clear coated, some other parts are anodized and require a different treatment to bring them back.

I recently redid some engine cases by first using paint stripper and then progressively finer sand paper, used wet, followed by mothers. I don't like the mirror polished finish and prefer it to look like stock - which is pretty close to 600 grit wet paper. I used automotive clear on my cases but I'm not sure it's going to hold up to the heat. We'll see. The rattle can clear I've used before looked like crap compared to spraying with my own gun. Wish there was a high quality catalyzed clear I could buy that was made for the purpose.

Been doing some reading on the subject and somewhere I read that Yamaha sold some clearcoat that works. This writeup said it was the only one he could recommend. I have no first hand knowledge of this, but I'm going to check it out.

Another write-up recommended VHT clearcoat... looks interesting.


Tired of continually polishing aluminum or pot metal?

Here's the complete long term answer! Clearcoat It.

1. Polish the part (for the last time), spray on a coat of Clear VHT and allow to dry.
2. Take the bike, or car, for a spin, and the engine heat will cure the coating!
3. That's it! Finished - for good!
4. Ideal for Use on:
   • Automotive Exhaust
   • Snowmobiles Jet Ski
   • Motorcycle Exhaust & aluminum parts
   • Barbecues Franklin Stoves Fireplaces Mufflers

VHT FlameProof coating was originally developed some 30 years ago and is now used as a protective coating for the white-hot surfaces of space-bound and re-entry vehicles.
Since its inception, new ideas for applications have been developed by numerous industrial, automotive, and electrical engineers. These include aerospace hardware, smoke stacks, jet engines, heat exchangers, boilers, heaters, exhaust manifolds, mufflers, steam pipes, barbecues, electrical hardware, and countless other applications where resistance to high temperatures and/or weathering is required.
Leading major industrial firms have come to rely on VHT FlameProof coating to solve many of their most difficult problems. Firms such as IBM, Corning glass, Colt Industries, B.F. Goodrich, Bechtol Corporation, Combustion Engineering, Air Research, Alcoa, RCA, Raytheon, NASA, Hughes Aircraft Lockheed, Cessna, North American Rockwell, and countless others equally impressive have benefited by VHT's progress in high temperature coatings.
Surface preparation:

1. No special surface preparation is required, except removal of oil films, etc.
2. Anodized, irridited and alodyned surfaces can be directly coated with VHT FlameProof for lower temperature use only.

Thinning:

Thin as necessary with a quality grade lacquer thinner available from local supplier. Do not thin more than 25% by volume.
Application:

Apply a THIN, even coat - just enough to thoroughly COLOR. Excessive build-up is not necessary or recommended. In applications requiring heavy coating, build-up should be done in stages, each successive coat being cured as recommended below nominal coating wet thickness .0015" - .002". VHT FlameProof coatings require no primer.
Curing:

On non-traffic surfaces and where solvent resistance is not required, VHT FlameProof coating may be used as is. Air-dried curing may be accomplished by the inherent heat of operation such as encountered in engine manifolds and exhausts, boilers, heaters, etc. or by following the curing instructions below. VHT FlameProof coatings will air dry in 15 to 30 minutes and, if handled with reasonable care, may be put to immediate use.
Heat curing method for maximum resistance to solvents, salt spray, humidity, thermal shock and heat:

In a dedicated electric oven:

• 15 minutes at 250°F
• 30 minutes at 600°F
• 1 hour at 800°F
• 30 minutes at 1,000°F.

[txironhead]

Someone here reported that they did that and it still yellowed fairly quickly. I recommend POR-15's two-part clear, it's specifically designed to NOT yellow, nearly bulletproof and pretty cheap. As a bonus, it can be brushed on, it's self-levelling. You can buy it directly from their website for about $32 a pint, including hardener, and that's plenty to do all of the polished parts on a GS.

[GaThumper]

Someone here reported that they did that and it still yellowed fairly quickly. I recommend POR-15's two-part clear, it's specifically designed to NOT yellow, nearly bulletproof and pretty cheap. As a bonus, it can be brushed on, it's self-levelling. You can buy it directly from their website for about $32 a pint, including hardener, and that's plenty to do all of the polished parts on a GS.

Interesting you mention POR-15. I was just reading about it and was coming back to edit my post and add it to the options. Glad to hear that is is a good option. I'll be doing my case covers this winter.

[Regent]

I recommend POR-15's two-part clear, it's specifically designed to NOT yellow, nearly bulletproof and pretty cheap.

Did you use any of their prep products before applying the POR-15? Please share any info on how you prepped the surface proir to application, and how long it's been since you applied it! :-D

So who has some pics of a POR-15 application after a year or so?

I don't mind spending a day polishing once a year, really. But if somebody has found this to be a long term solution to re-polishing, let's hear it!

[renobruce]

So who has some pics of a POR-15 application after a year or so?

I don't mind spending a day polishing once a year, really. But if somebody has found a workaround, let's see it! [-o<

I have to agree with this statement. I have only machine polished my aluminum once, which was about 1 1/2 years ago. My cases are not cleared. Every couple of months I put some Mother's on by hand and wipe it off. They still look great.





I, however live in a very dry climate, and the bike is always garaged. Maybe that matters. But I would think if you keep them dressed up they shouldn't corrode that fast. To me, clearing the cases is alot of work and maybe a waste of time, especially if they turn yellow in a few months. Plus you would have to consider the prep AFTER you polish and before you clear them. Wouldn't you have to make sure all the polishing compound is removed, etc.?

[txironhead]

POR-15 has very clear and complete instructions for each of their products on their website, including the prep process

Simply spraying a polished part down with carb and choke cleaner gets 99% of any kind of residue off. Wipe down quickly with a soft, lint-free cloth and you are pretty much done. Small crevices may be tricky, but they are for any purpose.

I personally have not used the two-part clear. However, I have helped several friends use POR-15 on their 4X4s. The stuff is nearly bulletproof. You almost can't chisel it off. Gas doesn't touch it. Don't paint anything with the stuff that you plan on stripping later, you're better off buying a new part. Rust? Don't think so. I'm seriously thinking of using their Black Velvet exhaust coating on my header pipes. They have a money-back guarantee. The only complaint I've ever heard about a POR-15 product is that the stuff won't come off. Well, you shouldn't have painted over those phillips-head screws in the first place.....

Honestly, if I knew it wouldn't retain heat (and could afford it), I'd paint my entire engine with the stuff.

If you have any questions about the clear, email them. I for one have had such good luck with their other products (including their marine seal, salt water doesn't touch it) that I would have no problem using it on my bike other than financial. I'm a bit broke right now. The stuff was literally designed to seal bare metal, and they're a great company.