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Handlebar (backsweep?) angle...

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    #16
    Make sure you post pictures when you're done. It should be pretty cool. Better yet, post pictures of the process. That's always fun to watch too. I like seing how people choose to get from Point A to Point B.

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      #17
      maybe i need to just start making my own frames lol i swear, im just gonna take the one good vin number i have and cut it out and make it magnetic and just stick it on whatever bike i wanna ride. if all else fails though on your handle bars send me some demontions or what you want and i can weld some up

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        #18
        This is what I'm talking about.



        The bar clamps will mount on the "dog bone" lol

        Also, no one every really said what a good degree of "pullback" was. How is it measured on most bars? They dont seem to use degrees, just in inches.
        Last edited by Guest; 09-05-2007, 09:54 PM.

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          #19
          Unfortunately there is no "good" degree of pullback. What's best for me, may not be best for you. There are what are considered "ideal" ergonomic positions for your body. But, because we are all shaped differently, the same bars won't put us all in the same position. People who put a lot of miles on their bikes tend to agree that you don't want high bars because the blood will leave your arms. You don't want your bars too low because your shoulders will get sore. You don't want the bars to far forward, that causes lower back pain and also puts weight on your hands. Of course all of this can change with addition or subtraction of fairings and other accessories.

          The bars I have on one of my bikes are great at highway speeds. At around 50, the wind hits my chest and takes all of the weight of fof my hands. Below that speed, I tend to get numb hands. Since you're building bars from scratch, this might be your oppurtunity to make what are the perfect handlebars for you. I would say that the best way to do this would be to build a set of bars that are adjustable in all directions. Ride around with them for a while and find the position that works for you. After that, you can build a nice set that are in the exact posiotioin that you want. This is probably not the answer that you were looking for, but there really is no "magic" setup that is going to work for all people. That's why people customize their bikes in the first place.

          You're lucky that you have access to the tools to do that kind of work. Most of us have to live with what's available on the market. For people like me, with Monkey arms, the selection is not that great.

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            #20
            Being 6' 3", I have to agree. Most metric bikes from the '70's to the early '90's were not made for tall people. However, the problem I encounter the most is not bars that are to tall, forward or back, but bars that are "squeezed" too close together. When I first got the GS, it had K&N staghorn bars on it. I took one look at them and thought "those bars have gotta go". However, once I actually sat on the bike and tested the fit, they are the most comfortable bars I've had so far. On all of the bikes I've had, I've changed the handlebars, normally by going to a bike junkyard and sitting on the various junkers trying out the bars (you want to wear old jeans for this!). My Shadow had Triumph bars on it when I got it, and I ended up with Yamaha bars. Actually, I've had the most success with Yamaha handlebars.

            As far as building your own, I'd build a mockup out of 3/4" PVC and use fittings. Leave the fittings loose and you can move the bars around until you find the fit you like. If you go with risers, you can get 45 degree elbows, then cut various short lengths to swap out for the upward and back lengths. Once you've found your "ideal" position, you can figure out how to get the correct bends and lengths for the actual bars using your mockup. While you're making the bars, you might also look into drilling them to hide the switch wires. Heck, the sky's the limit when you're fabricating, you could even run an internal throttle. I've seen homemade rigs built using a left-hand drill bit and bearings that worked just as well as a $200 kit.

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              #21
              Originally posted by txironhead View Post
              ... You have a tubing notcher, right?
              Originally posted by CA180 View Post
              a who? Dont know that I've heard of that
              Isn't it for notchin your tube for all your conquests?

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                #22
                All valid points. I'll try some mock up with pvc. I was considering an internal thottle and wires, but because of the tight radius ( as seen in my photoshop ) I think there might be too much bind on the Throttle cable, and the wires might not look good coming out of the bottom of the bars.

                As for the notcher, I knew what it was... Just never heard that name. I always called it " a tool for fish mouthing ".

                And as for having the tools to do this stuff... Like my welder and what not... Well, i'm lucky to have such a great wife. Her and her family got it for my last b'day.

                Anyhow, I'll post progress as it goes. Thanks again for all the help!

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