TheCafeKid

[TheCafeKid]

oh i still have lots of stuff to do to mine..but most of that will be cosmetic. Im still half tempted to use those dual disc forks...ive been on the fence about it and ive had one guy interested in the discs and calipers but havent heard from him in a bit... if thats a no go i may just do it. Im also contemplating losing the meg off my VH and getting a nice tip for it...completely free flowing exhaust, but i dunno how well that will go with the cops down where i work...prolly not well...lol If the rain stops, and after i get that damn alternator switched out on my cage, im gonna pull the headers off my bike and wrap em with my header wrap. Ive already experimented with my headbolts and they are nice and easy to get out. Need some fork boots too. Those should look sweet and give even more of that old school cafe look. Ran into a buddy of mine i hadnt seen in a while and he has his own CNC mill! might have him mill my seat pan for me. then get my fiberglass seat and go thru another paint job, get some gauges hooked up, fix a couple of wiring issues, and ill be ready to go for the time being. ....sooooo cloooose...stiill looking for another 2V motor tho...

[Ironriot]

oh i still have lots of stuff to do to mine..but most of that will be cosmetic. Im still half tempted to use those dual disc forks...ive been on the fence about it and ive had one guy interested in the discs and calipers but havent heard from him in a bit... if thats a no go i may just do it. Im also contemplating losing the meg off my VH and getting a nice tip for it...completely free flowing exhaust, but i dunno how well that will go with the cops down where i work...prolly not well...lol If the rain stops, and after i get that damn alternator switched out on my cage, im gonna pull the headers off my bike and wrap em with my header wrap. Ive already experimented with my headbolts and they are nice and easy to get out. Need some fork boots too. Those should look sweet and give even more of that old school cafe look. Ran into a buddy of mine i hadnt seen in a while and he has his own CNC mill! might have him mill my seat pan for me. then get my fiberglass seat and go thru another paint job, get some gauges hooked up, fix a couple of wiring issues, and ill be ready to go for the time being. ....sooooo cloooose...stiill looking for another 2V motor tho...

Hmm well about putting on that extra disk and caliper. 1. It looks cool. 2. Extra stopping power is always good BUT its alot of extra weight.

Dude I wouldn't do that to a V&H. Those things are out of production. I'd screw up a stock exhaust but not a V&H... Maybe a MAC lol

His own CNC mill you say? I think you're gonna become my middle man for CNCed products lol

[TheCafeKid]

Hmm well about putting on that extra disk and caliper. 1. It looks cool. 2. Extra stopping power is always good BUT its alot of extra weight.

Dude I wouldn't do that to a V&H. Those things are out of production. I'd screw up a stock exhaust but not a V&H... Maybe a MAC lol

His own CNC mill you say? I think you're gonna become my middle man for CNCed products lol

according to VH whom i emailed..they are not out of production...they still have baffles even...dunno why everyone says they're out of production..unless they just have that many on back stock...

[TheCafeKid]

SOOO update.... Just cleaned and rebuilt a rear brake caliper off this 80. hopefully it will work had a bunch of scuzzy crap in it, but it looks pretty damn clean now. My 77s seems to be totally shot, but ill pull it apart for the THIRD time and attemp a clean on it again, still sticking. This other aside from the scuzzyness is in much better shape. Got my rings in my boots and they are all nice and clean ready to bolt back up. Im hoping my rear MC isnt bad, though i just rebuilt it. if it is i have a 80 MC but i dunno yet if it will mount the same way. ill have to find a way to strap up the resivour for sure as it mounted differently but that should be no problem.

As for your bars Riot, i DID manage to get that damn grip (had to cut it, but i found some pruning sheres that did the trick without touching the metal..sweet) off so they're nice and shiney and ready to go out in the MIZAIL on tuesday, along with your crash bars. i think youll dig em...I was looking at them and you could almost flip them upside down and backwards for some low bars...yanno for that Cafe you're building hehehehehe. And ill let everyone know bout this guy with the CNC mill...if hes good on price ill pass on the word i bet hes always lookin for stuff to do for some extra cash..he doesnt need it god knows but i think he does it more for fun.

[Ironriot]

SOOO update.... Just cleaned and rebuilt a rear brake caliper off this 80. hopefully it will work had a bunch of scuzzy crap in it, but it looks pretty damn clean now. My 77s seems to be totally shot, but ill pull it apart for the THIRD time and attemp a clean on it again, still sticking. This other aside from the scuzzyness is in much better shape. Got my rings in my boots and they are all nice and clean ready to bolt back up. Im hoping my rear MC isnt bad, though i just rebuilt it. if it is i have a 80 MC but i dunno yet if it will mount the same way. ill have to find a way to strap up the resivour for sure as it mounted differently but that should be no problem.

As for your bars Riot, i DID manage to get that damn grip (had to cut it, but i found some pruning sheres that did the trick without touching the metal..sweet) off so they're nice and shiney and ready to go out in the MIZAIL on tuesday, along with your crash bars. i think youll dig em...I was looking at them and you could almost flip them upside down and backwards for some low bars...yanno for that Cafe you're building hehehehehe. And ill let everyone know bout this guy with the CNC mill...if hes good on price ill pass on the word i bet hes always lookin for stuff to do for some extra cash..he doesnt need it god knows but i think he does it more for fun.

Ugh I should clean out those calipers and MCs but damnit I wanna ride already lol. I'll probably give it a few test runs and see how the brakes hold up. But I think the rear caliper is gonna need a cleaning. I can spin the wheel but it spins only for a few inches before it comes to a stop. Does it sound like it should be cleaned?

Lol you and caffenating my bike. I think once I get bored with the chopped life I'll caffenate it. I saw a rear section that looked pretty badass. I'll try to find a pic so you can see what it looks like

[TheCafeKid]

Ugh I should clean out those calipers and MCs but damnit I wanna ride already lol. I'll probably give it a few test runs and see how the brakes hold up. But I think the rear caliper is gonna need a cleaning. I can spin the wheel but it spins only for a few inches before it comes to a stop. Does it sound like it should be cleaned?

Lol you and caffenating my bike. I think once I get bored with the chopped life I'll caffenate it. I saw a rear section that looked pretty badass. I'll try to find a pic so you can see what it looks like

Id check that, and your wheel bearings too. One other thing to consider,depending on chaing and sprocket age is checking those. From personal experience that is one of the symtoms of chain binding, due to a worn chain, which in turn is usally due to a bad sprocket or sprockets. But usally there will be some unusual chain racket just about he time it starts to grab and stop the tire. if you have that noise...pull your sprockets and check for wear...raised teeth, twisted teeth or curled or worn teeth. this caused binding and eventually will twist the rivets in you chain to breakage. mine happended to be in the front sprocket, which is easiest to check...but check the bearings first...

You;ll hear clicking or binding if its chain and sprocket wear. if your not hearing that, then its most likely bearings or warped rotor or brake caliper.

[Ironriot]

Id check that, and your wheel bearings too. One other thing to consider,depending on chaing and sprocket age is checking those. From personal experience that is one of the symtoms of chain binding, due to a worn chain, which in turn is usally due to a bad sprocket or sprockets. But usally there will be some unusual chain racket just about he time it starts to grab and stop the tire. if you have that noise...pull your sprockets and check for wear...raised teeth, twisted teeth or curled or worn teeth. this caused binding and eventually will twist the rivets in you chain to breakage. mine happended to be in the front sprocket, which is easiest to check...but check the bearings first...

You;ll hear clicking or binding if its chain and sprocket wear. if your not hearing that, then its most likely bearings or warped rotor or brake caliper.

Doesn't have a chain on it and the sprockets check out fine. I've already given them a looksee over. The bearings are great. When I pulled the wheels apart to paint them I cleaned out the grease and checked the bearings to see whats up and they checked out fine. The wheel spun good when I had it on with out the caliper so that's what I figured. More or less how much wheel travel should I expect?

[TheCafeKid]

Doesn't have a chain on it and the sprockets check out fine. I've already given them a looksee over. The bearings are great. When I pulled the wheels apart to paint them I cleaned out the grease and checked the bearings to see whats up and they checked out fine. The wheel spun good when I had it on with out the caliper so that's what I figured. More or less how much wheel travel should I expect?

Should spin fairly freely...Id start with flushing out the system real well with clean brake fluid...pay attn to whether or not the pads, especailly the rear pad comes off the disc freely...if it doesnt, loosen the bleeder valve on that side, pust the pad back tight it down and see if when you hit the rear pedal a few times if its sticking...thats the problem im having...Ive rebuild my MC, tore the caliper apart a couple times and cleaned it and still had the problem. so im using a different caliper, and we'll see how that goes...if thats still a problem its on to the rubber brake line that connects to the caliper...as Steve has said sometimes the inner tube colapses, especailly when they are old and wont allow pressure to come back to the MC. if thats the prob then that gets fixed...and i should be good togo.

[Ironriot]

Should spin fairly freely...Id start with flushing out the system real well with clean brake fluid...pay attn to whether or not the pads, especailly the rear pad comes off the disc freely...if it doesnt, loosen the bleeder valve on that side, pust the pad back tight it down and see if when you hit the rear pedal a few times if its sticking...thats the problem im having...Ive rebuild my MC, tore the caliper apart a couple times and cleaned it and still had the problem. so im using a different caliper, and we'll see how that goes...if thats still a problem its on to the rubber brake line that connects to the caliper...as Steve has said sometimes the inner tube colapses, especailly when they are old and wont allow pressure to come back to the MC. if thats the prob then that gets fixed...and i should be good togo.

Sounds like its gonna be my caliper then. Its not connected to the MC because I took the brake hose off. And for sure that wheel doesn't spin freely. Ah well looks like I'm in the market for a rebuild kit.

[TheCafeKid]

Sounds like its gonna be my caliper then. Its not connected to the MC because I took the brake hose off. And for sure that wheel doesn't spin freely. Ah well looks like I'm in the market for a rebuild kit.

Id test it with the brake hose connected to the MC first...you'll not get the return pressure without it...its a sealed system, and if its sucking air its not going to return properly. Check that first, but on a bike that old a rebuild kit for both the MC and the caliper may not be a bad idea anyway, and they're pretty cheap. Id try to get the caliper kit from BikeBandit as i believe thiers actually includes the piston cups and not just the seals alone..if your piston cups are pitted or corroded it will effect its slide back. You can pull the piston cups out and inspect them first if you want, but i think the difference in the Z1 rebuild which is only seals and the BikeBandit version which includes cups is only like 8 or ten bucks...if there is just some slight gunk and corrosion on your piston cups, steel wool should take care of it pretty good. dont forget to pull the rubber seal out of the inner piston cup seat itself and clean all the gook out of that. Build up there will push on your cup causing it to bind and not want to return. Lemme know what you find, cos im currently experimenting with used stuff here myself.

[TheCafeKid]

Oh and when cleaning them, use brake parts cleaner, as other stuff will swell when hot and cause problems as well, found that out first hand. Try not to get any of the rubber seals with that cleaner tho...not good for em

[Ironriot]

Id test it with the brake hose connected to the MC first...you'll not get the return pressure without it...its a sealed system, and if its sucking air its not going to return properly. Check that first, but on a bike that old a rebuild kit for both the MC and the caliper may not be a bad idea anyway, and they're pretty cheap. Id try to get the caliper kit from BikeBandit as i believe thiers actually includes the piston cups and not just the seals alone..if your piston cups are pitted or corroded it will effect its slide back. You can pull the piston cups out and inspect them first if you want, but i think the difference in the Z1 rebuild which is only seals and the BikeBandit version which includes cups is only like 8 or ten bucks...if there is just some slight gunk and corrosion on your piston cups, steel wool should take care of it pretty good. dont forget to pull the rubber seal out of the inner piston cup seat itself and clean all the gook out of that. Build up there will push on your cup causing it to bind and not want to return. Lemme know what you find, cos im currently experimenting with used stuff here myself.

Yeah I'll probably take a look at that in the next few days to make sure that all is good. I'll report back with my finding results.

On another topic do you know what these are listed under on parts sites?
I can't seem to find them anywhere


Notice they have those stupid O-rings inside and I'm worried those are gonna start leaking

[TheCafeKid]

Yeah I'll probably take a look at that in the next few days to make sure that all is good. I'll report back with my finding results.

On another topic do you know what these are listed under on parts sites?
I can't seem to find them anywhere


Notice they have those stupid O-rings inside and I'm worried those are gonna start leaking

mine look like they have orings but they arent...its just the way the rubber is molded to seal around the carb body

[n1elkyfan]

Well I got those shorter shock on my bike and figure I would post some pictures up. Thanks again TCK

Before


After


Know I have a few little inconviences. First Its a lot harder to get it on the center stand. Secound the chain is know rubbing.

[TheCafeKid]

rubbing what? It for sure looks a bit more aggressive.