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clearcoat

  • Thread starter Thread starter catbed
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catbed

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what can i use to strip the clearcoat off my crankcase covers? after i do that, what clear coat should i put on? i think it would need to be high heat because the side covers get pretty hot. i am planning on clearcoating them because i want them to look stock.

nothing to do with clearcoating but, if i run seafoam or berrymans through the carbs/fuel, it wont degrade the rubber right?
 
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Aircraft stripper. They sell it at auto parts store and at Walmart. Eastwood sells quality clear for aluminum. I didn't use any clear after stripping. I just give it a polish by hand every now and then.
Seafoam wont' hurt anything.
 
Strip clearcoat

Strip clearcoat

Aircraft stripper at Wally World. Works good and it is cheap.
 
One idea is to send them out for clear powdercoat - typically not a lot of money.

If your cases have corrosion on them you can sand it out with wet sandpaper. Use the finest stuff that will remove the offending damage and then work into the finer stuff. I've found that 600 grit matches the stock finish pretty closely - use in one direction, don't swirl.

Good luck.
 
I used the sandpaper method after stripping and then used a buffing wheel with the various rouges to finish them off. That will get you to a very shiny
almost "imitation chrome" finish if that is what you are looking for.
 
twr1776 said:
I used the sandpaper method after stripping and then used a buffing wheel with the various rouges to finish them off. That will get you to a very shiny
almost "imitation chrome" finish if that is what you are looking for.
Click to expand...


Yeah that's the way to go IMO. I used that method when advocated by reno bruce. Here's my before and after.

CIMG0096.jpg


CIMG0029.jpg
 
one caveat---the aircraft stripper WILL give you chemical burns if it gets on your skin. and washing it off with hot water makes it worse. wear gloves, and something for your eyes would be prudent too. i know, it says this right on the can. apparently i was having trouble reading that day....
 
I used automotive paint stripper, available anywhere. Did the job. Then I used 220, 320, 600 grit and a final rub with 000 steel wool to get the satin look. Finally i degreased them with lacquer thinner and used clear engine paint. That was 4 years ago and they still look great.
 
I used paint stripper as well but the water based variety found at walmart. Smells like oranges. :)

I did not apply any clear afterwards. In Colorado the humidity is low and the covers still look great after 1 year. The bike even lived outside all winter.
 
the engine paint on black GS engines is satin black, right. for those who have seen my other threads know what this is for but for others, my valve cover cracked and i got it welded and im going to repaint it, or at least touch it up.
 
Sorry to hijack this thread a bit but Catbed... are you able to post some close ups of your engine at all? Looks like in your photo there that most of it is painted black with the external bits polished up.

That's what I want to do with my 450 and I've been trying to visualise how it would look.
 
yea ill get some pics soon. thats how the 83 850s came, black engine with aluminum others.
 
I can't share much about bikes, but I have done alot of polishing in my shop for people. What do you guys think about opening up a thread or topic strickly about polishing and paint prep, picture walkthroughs and all?
 
Escobarclan said:
I can't share much about bikes, but I have done alot of polishing in my shop for people. What do you guys think about opening up a thread or topic strickly about polishing and paint prep, picture walkthroughs and all?
Click to expand...

I think that's a great idea. :-D
 
I second that motion :-)

Oh, and I got my free catalogue of all the POR 15 stuff the other day, lots of good stuff in there! Not terribly cheap, but hopefully it will be worth the $$$
 
on to forks. i noticed the forks are yellow-y. is that fading or is that the original color. and what finish do the forks have stock? brushed horizontally?
 
The forks are loaded with clearcoat. That's the yellow you are seeing. Mine on my 1000 are not brushed. They are smooth. I "brushed" mine with a wire wheel. But My spare set will be polished.

100_1407.jpg
 
The clear paint turns yellow after a number of years. I stripped off the clear on my 850 forks using paint stripper and reshot some new clear to reset the clock so to speak.

The factory engine cases, forks, rear diff, etc., are brush-polished by Suzuki before clearcoating. If you look close at the metal you can see the grain direction of the brushing. 600 grit is pretty close to the stock look if you are trying to duplicate it.
 
if i take the forks apart to spray them with clear coat, do i have to replace the seals? they dont leak now.
 
catbed said:
if i take the forks apart to spray them with clear coat, do i have to replace the seals? they dont leak now.
Click to expand...

No. Slide out the whole assembly. Take off the dust boots and mask off the upper fork tubes to protect them from overspray.
 
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