Polishing my motor

[Escobarclan]

Now that I'm writing this I can't remember who asked for the supply source, but I go through Eastwood. Can't remember the website. I'm on my phone right now so I can't look.

Eastwood has all the stuff you need, they'll send you a catalog if you want.

For aluminum, you need (from most abbrasive to finest):

Sisal wheel (rough to medium cut)
Spiral sewn wheel (medium to finishing)

Tube or 'brick' of:
"stainless" (very rough cutting, good for deep corrosion)
"tripoli" (medium to fine cutting)
"white" (fine)
red or 'jewelers' rouge' for that sweet mirror look.

If your aluminum isn't too bad just get the tripoli and skip to the red jewelers' rouge. Get 1 sisal wheel for the tripoli and 1 spiral sewn for the rouge. Don't forget to "scour" the wheel if it gets shiny from pasting compounds. Never use more than 2 compounds on one wheel, and they should always be only 1 polishing step (grit) away from each other.

In between coumpounds and ESPECIALLY the finishing phases, use kitchen flour and a very soft cotton cloth to wipe off the compound. Flour will smoothly soak up the greasy compound but won't leave any scratches.

I haven't really advertised here but my website is www.escobarpolishing.com if any of you need my services, and noone is cheaper than me, but I'll do your parts for 30% off, it's the least I could do for my GS brothers. Sorry if I offend anyone by putting my sign up in here.

[J_C]

Great info esco, thanks for the post! I might have to try the red, never did that before. I think that might bring back the shine, I definitely don't need to go back to tripoli. You recommend a sisal over loose cotton, any reasons why?

[Escobarclan]

I like a sisal over cotton because it last ALOT longer. You just get the tip of a steel file and 'rake' the wheel as it's spinning. It literally fluffs the wheel a little, and gets great results. Remember, its the compound that cuts the finish, the wheel applies it, and the wheel cannot cut more than the grit of the compound on it.

https://www.escobarpolishing.com

[J_C]

Great, thanks for the tip!

[Boriqua]

Ok I am bringing up another necro thread but it was the only one that search pulled up on this subject.

After reading the thread I went and bought some wet dry sandpaper in 800 and some #1 steel wool. I have 1500 wet dry and 000 steel wool already. I took a feel of the 400 wet dry but it seemed way to aggressive for my taste.

I have some blue magic polish. I did a quick test and I think the abrasives I have will do the trick with a bit of work but I may get a foam pad I can attach to my drill. I dont plan on taking the parts off the bike. I know that would be best but I will be happy with really good if not great.

So my question is Sealant. I have been using turtle wax paste for stuff since forever. I never tried it on anything that gets hot though. I dont want to spend a ton of money on this but I also dont want the turtle wax to just flake off after my first ride. Has anyone tried it on the engine parts. If not what would you recommend that is not $25?

Edited to add .... It is Sooooooooo freagin cool to be worrying about appearance and not running!! Just got back from a little 30 mile ride and it purrs and idles perfectly. Cruises along on the highway at 77 smooth as silk.

[Big T]

Wizards Metal sealer seems popular.
Yes, it's expensive, but it's the right product for the job

[Boriqua]

and so it begins! I dont want to strip parts now because while many of you are putting your bikes to bed this is prime riding time for AZ. Morning starts about 60 ish F and has been going to mid 80's. Whew .. cool weather.

I took my #1 steel wool and took the paint off the shocks. They were black with large patches of rust. I buffed the top and the springs vigorously with the #1 steel wool. I have had maybe 10 or more bikes and have ridden double that in my life and .. I will be honest .. these shocks are really really nice and suit the bike well. I don't ride very aggressively but they are a nice comfy ride single or doubled up with the wife so if I dont have to spend $200 + on new ones to get an unknown I would like to keep them. But they were nasty looking.

I started with #1 steel wool and the paint easily came off. I scrubbed the springs but don't intend to paint them. They looked amazing just having the age taken off them with a robust steel wool treatment. Then I took my dremel and some green rouge to the tops and bottoms. The tops needed real work and there are some minor scratches and gouges I cant get out unless I go to sanding but I was pretty happy with the results.

I ultimately went to several turns with the Blue magic and a rag by hand alternating when I thought necessary with 000 steel wool. They are not perfect as in new looking but .. take a look .. I think it turned out OK.

Next will be the tranny cover and ignition cover but I need more buffing tools so that will wait until saturday. I think I will pick up some #3 steel wool for that. I know I can go directly to 400 grit wet dry but I am a firm believer in ... I cant add what was taken away .. so slow is fine with me. I dont really care if it takes me the next 8 months to finish the polish.

Here is the difference already

Pic from yesterday without rack and shocks as I bought it. What you cant see is the bodies were covered in grease and grime and just nasty.





So now the shocks are done

[Admiral Beez]

Here’s my bike as is. I want to polish up the cases without removing them.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1JgPmKByAOQvW0bDhUaoMp3Xiqp7fczZQ

How do I go about this? First step is removing the top clear coat? I have a corded and cordless drill, but no grinder. I’ve been thinking of buying myself a dremel tool to clear off rusted parts before I tremclad paint them. I have a polishing kit that may fit a Dremel.

[Admiral Beez]

Question... what’s the best way without removing engine covers from the engine to get through the clear coat to polish my aluminum cases? Should I apply a paint stripper? Or just sand through it?

and how do I remove the old Suzuki round case emblems so I can install replacements?

[jsandidge]

Aircraft stripper works to a degree. There will still be some sanding needed, but that will be easier after the stripper. As for the emblems, use a heat gun to soften the adhesive.

[Admiral Beez]

Aircraft stripper works to a degree. There will still be some sanding needed, but that will be easier after the stripper. As for the emblems, use a heat gun to soften the adhesive.

Thanks. This stuff?

https://www.eastwood.com/klean-strip-aircraft-paint-remover-aerosol.html

[jsandidge]

No. The aerosol version is not very good from my experience. You can brush this stuff on.

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/prep-all-aircraft-paint-remover-qar343/10193704-p?c3ch=PLA&c3nid=10193704-P&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Bing_PLA_Paint%20%26%20Chemicals_Paint%20%26%20Body%20Repair%20Chemicals&utm_term=4580771601790098&utm_content=Bing_PLA_AG_Paint%20%26%20Chemicals_Paint%20%26%20Body%20Repair%20Chemicals_Paint%20Chemicals&gclid=CJCc3snB7tsCFc3mswodUMcDzg&gclsrc=ds

[Steve]

When using the aircraft stripper, USE IT CAREFULLY.

Use gloves. The stuff is NASTY and burns the skin nearly instantly.

Use safety glasses or goggles or a face shield. The stuff is a gel, but can still splash.

Then, for a bit of humor, read the label. My can says "Not to be used on aircraft."

.

[Admiral Beez]

When using the aircraft stripper, USE IT CAREFULLY.

Use gloves. The stuff is NASTY and burns the skin nearly instantly.

Use safety glasses or goggles or a face shield. The stuff is a gel, but can still splash.

Then, for a bit of humor, read the label. My can says "Not to be used on aircraft."

.

Will do, thanks. Is it safe to contact the gaskets behind the covers?

[Steve]

Is it safe to contact the gaskets behind the covers?

I don't know.

I have always used it when the covers are off the engine for polishing, so there were no gaskets in the vicinity.

.