there'll be before/after pics i promise
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Polishing my motor
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iDodgimus
has anyone used dremel attachments for the engine casings? or has it mostly been done by hand/drill? I really want to clean and shine my covers, and my wheels now (thanks renobruce) but havent any rotary tools yet (other than an electric screwdriver) - wondering what the best/cheapest/most useful option would be...
there'll be before/after pics i promise
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jola
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Originally posted by iDodgimus View Posthas anyone used dremel attachments for the engine casings? or has it mostly been done by hand/drill? I really want to clean and shine my covers, and my wheels now (thanks renobruce) but havent any rotary tools yet (other than an electric screwdriver) - wondering what the best/cheapest/most useful option would be...
there'll be before/after pics i promise
If it were me, I'd buy an electric drill and a dremel. They both come in handy for many things, and they work just fine for polishing.
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Escobarclan
I've been polishing for people for a while and I gotta say, you guys' have done some beautiful work.
Jola, use a can of wal-mart's 'aircraft' stripper for the clearcoat, it's cheap and saves a TON of time.
For the mirror look, go up to 1500-2000 and then go to the polishing wheels with the yellow, then white coumpound bricks. Expensive nowdays, but well worth it in quality and especially time.
For the factory look, work your way to 600 grit, then use brasso (yes, i said Brasso, try it).
Don't EVER use a wire wheel, it pits the aluminum badly.
Good luck buddy.
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jola
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Escobarclan
No problem, when you're done post some before & after pics. PM me if you run into any polishing problems. I also do aluminum polishing for people while I'm at work, kinda helps to pay for my bike parts. I don't hang up a large sign in this forum, but if you hit a wall let me know.
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Escobarclan
hey psy, instead of using a hard to remove clearcoat, try using a good car wax to seal the aluminum. each time you re-wax the oxidation is removed and the finish is renewed. works like a dream.
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Colin Green
Wow!.. that is awesome. What a bummer that it didn't last.
I'm just going to keep cleaning and occasionally light sanding mine.
Originally posted by psyguy View Post
i wanted to preserve the finish so i clearcoated all the covers unfortunately within a year the alu started oxidizing underneath the clearcoat so the finish doesnt look that good anymore
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J_C
I just found out my neighbor us a bench grinder or whatever those things are called. The first time I polished I went with a drill mounted buff. Can anyone recommend what type of buff should be used on the bench grinder? I was mucking about sears the other day and they have sewn wheels, flap wheels, etc. My plan is to try the mothers or simi chrome and if that doesnt get it back to where it was a year ago then I'll go back to the white compound. It's a shame I need to do it again; living by the ocean causes a lot of heartache with these old bikes.
Also, can anyone recommend a "good wax" for the aluminum? I've been using that NXT stuff on my tank, should that suffice?
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Nick
Originally posted by J_C View PostI just found out my neighbor us a bench grinder or whatever those things are called. The first time I polished I went with a drill mounted buff. Can anyone recommend what type of buff should be used on the bench grinder? I was mucking about sears the other day and they have sewn wheels, flap wheels, etc. My plan is to try the mothers or simi chrome and if that doesnt get it back to where it was a year ago then I'll go back to the white compound. It's a shame I need to do it again; living by the ocean causes a lot of heartache with these old bikes.
Also, can anyone recommend a "good wax" for the aluminum? I've been using that NXT stuff on my tank, should that suffice?
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J_C
Cool thanks Nick =] I like it on the tank, seems to do a pretty good job of protecting it. I'll try it on the aluminum once it's all repolished. Hopefully it protects without diminishing too much of the shine
Thanks to caswellplating's "pick a buff" tool I found that I should use a loose wheel.
Soft metals are the quickest and easiest metals to polish. To take advantage of the softness of the metal, you should use an aggressive wheel and compound for fastest, best results.
1st Stage - Rough Cut To Remove Scratches
Use Sisal Wheel With Emery (Black) Compound
2nd Stage - Final Cut and Initial Polish
Use Spiral Sewn Wheel With Tripoli (Brown) Compound
3rd Stage - Final Polish (or Luster)
Use Loose Cotton Wheel With Blizzard (White) Compound
I'll probably order a few from them once I figure out the size and speed of the bench grinder.Last edited by Guest; 04-22-2008, 01:44 PM.
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Dizzixx
Could you maybe explain in more detail what each of the stages are and how you do them. Or where you get the different compound. I would like to start cleaning up my motor and I want to do it right but have no idea. Also what is the best seal, and how long can I expect it to stay that way before it has to be retouched?
Thanks
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J_C
dizzix, here's what I put in a similar thread around a year ago. Too bad it doesn't look like this now!
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For polishing I used a combination of methods I got from Bruce and Keith. Here is the before and after of my sprocket cover.
The entire process went 400 grit wetsand, 800, 1000, 1500, 2000, mother's polish, white rouge. It was very time consuming but worth it I think.
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As you can see in the above post, I wetsanded instead of doing the first two stages that caswell identified. White rouge can be picked up online at caswells or eastwood. The stuff I got was the cheap bar from SearsLast edited by Guest; 04-22-2008, 07:42 PM.
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