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    Plastic cowl cover repair

    I'm having problems getting Picasa photos to embed, but here are two links. I know it's hard to tell from the pic, but do you think this could be repaired using Bondo and some sort of a backing mold to form the edge at the end?





    Any thoughts on materials/techniques would be helpful.

    I'm having a heck of a time finding this part at salvage yards. I've been told the 700ES works as well, but still no luck. I found one, but it's about $50 and not in the greatest of shape.

    #2
    Really good question

    If the cracks are through the plastic, then you will have to grind away enough material to replace or put enough material on the backside to provide all of the strength. The split will form a "stress riser " even if you duplicate the same strength is a structural backing.

    I dont think fiberglass polyurethane or epoxy will really bond well to the back of the piece. I would tend to use something like



    Marinetex is structural while Bondo is not. The waterproof Bondo with chopped fiberglass strands is better , but marinetex is much stronger.

    The problem is still going to be the split on the front even if you support the back. An flex will likely crack the paint layer even if the part remains strong. I would tend to want to try and plastic weld the part even if I had to grind it down and put a surface layer of either marinetex or bondo. I would certainly reinforce with the marinetex on the back.

    Here is a link to a cheap Harbor Freight part. Try it out if you can/want.

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    Posplayr

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      #3
      ES Lower Cowling

      Both right and left lower cowlings (brand new OEM) are available through Suzuki, $31 each.
      Scott
      Scott
      1982 GS1000S #1 bought in 84, #2 gone, #3 in hibernation
      1983 GS1100ES #1 (bought in 03, July 09 BOM, 65k traded in 17), #2 New daily rider, #3 in hibernation
      1982 GS1100E Red #1 - Original owner, sold in 93, #2 (Red) sold in 20 to Andy B
      2018 Gold Wing Tour - new out of the crate :) 1st non-Suzuki in 38 years
      sigpic

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        #4
        Both right and left lower cowlings (brand new OEM) are available through Suzuki, $31 each.
        Places show it as available on their online schematics, but I've called three shops and they've all told me the part is actually discontinued. The shop you recommended previously pointed me towards a salvage yard, which pointed me towards another salvage yard, etc. but no luck yet.

        Marinetex is structural while Bondo is not. The waterproof Bondo with chopped fiberglass strands is better , but marinetex is much stronger.
        Posplayr, I've gotten more advice from you this week than my wife. Her "advice" more closely resembles nagging, though. ;-) Seriously, though. Thanks again!

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          #5
          Bryan

          26 COVER,COWLING, R
          94431-49500 (replaces 94431-49500-16D) 1 $27.99

          27 COVER,COWLING L
          94441-49500 (replaces 94441-49500-16D) 1 $27.99


          Sorry about the format try Flatout they are listing it and I have never had anything they list as not be avaliable



          Alphasport shows them as discontinued.
          Buy parts at a low price for your snowmobile here at Alpha Sports, we carry a LARGE variety of parts and accesories.



          I have recently ordered a wiring harness from flatout and Alphasport showed it discontinued. The website posted status ; they are reviewing the order so I'll find out if they have it. Give them a try if the part is not there I'm sure they will cancel the order.

          I have good luck and they are the cheapest prices for OEM parts I have found. I dont have a Susuki dealer source so this who i got to for "cheap" new OEM.

          Posplayr

          P.S. Just glad I can help and hope I don't create too much disinformation
          P.S. #2 BTW, the plastic reinforcement advice comes from years of fixing (my own) windsurfing equipment.
          Last edited by posplayr; 04-24-2008, 10:59 PM.

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            #6
            83 ES Lower Cowling

            I just ordered one each on-line. We'll see what happens.
            Scott
            Scott
            1982 GS1000S #1 bought in 84, #2 gone, #3 in hibernation
            1983 GS1100ES #1 (bought in 03, July 09 BOM, 65k traded in 17), #2 New daily rider, #3 in hibernation
            1982 GS1100E Red #1 - Original owner, sold in 93, #2 (Red) sold in 20 to Andy B
            2018 Gold Wing Tour - new out of the crate :) 1st non-Suzuki in 38 years
            sigpic

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              #7
              Me too. Fingers crossed.

              Comment


                #8
                Bummer

                Chris from flatout called...discontinued. Back to the drawing board.

                Comment


                  #9
                  discontinued

                  Got the same phone call this morning.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    There is one other place

                    You probably need to search or start a new thread.There are some after market fairing parts. They are pricey and I think they are for the later model GS's so keep looking or look into the plastic welding.

                    If I run into the link I'll post. Can look now.

                    If you are ambitious, make a mold and produce them since they are out of production? 8-[; Sorry that might require a business plan and the Marinetex is less work than that....

                    Posplayr

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                      #11
                      I'm not sure what material the cowl is made from, but have good luck with ABS plummers epoxy with my Vetter fairing. You can get a small can of epoxy at Home Depot for less that 5.00. It melts into the ABS plastic on fairing and makes a really strong bond.

                      Thanks,

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                        #12
                        spindle

                        Are you talking about the cement that you use to bond together ABS pipe or PVC pipe? I can readily find a link for what you described.

                        I know the glue used for PVC pipe virtually melts the plastic and bonds it together. With the right stuff that is probably easier that welding. Problem is you have to make sure it is not just a surface bond but something that literally melts the two halves of plastic together.

                        Even with a good "melted" bond, I think I would still tend to back it up with some Maritex to avoid future stress fractures of the old plastic(at high stress areas).


                        Posplayr

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