rusty chrome

[Zooks]

Which, if any, of these products would be good for just straight up polishing your engine parts?

I absolutely guarantee that it won't harm anything.

It may affect your sanity though.

[psyguy]

on the expensive side, if the parts are properly prepared and re-chromed with a thick coating of copper and chrome, mate you re set for years of worry-free and work-free bling

original chrome isnt of great quality

[Escobarclan]

Why buy expensive 'miracle' compounds?

On chrome, the advice given above about using wd-40 and #0000 is correct. Use any other kind of oil too.

Remember, with the oil the wool will cut MORE, and without it cut LESS.

About he aluminum, go to the parts store and get a SISAL wheel and ask for the 'tripoli' compound, or go to Eastwood.com.

https://www.escobarpolishing.com

%30 of for all GS brothers

[rpickle]

I've used NAPA's version of naval jelly. Works great.


Rick

[GaThumper]

I had relatively good success with the Eagle one. Most of the milder surface rust was gone and I had a good finish.

But there were a few parts with a little more rust that was not coming off. I've been searching here and around the web and didn't want to scratch, damage, or remove any of the remaining chrome, so I thought I would just be left with some rust. I was thinking about rust converters (turns the rust black) and/or painting or clear coating, or poly-u coating or rubber paint in some of the places where flat black would be OK. Just something to prevent any further rusting.

I read here about the 0000 steel wool and WD 40 and since I had 0000 steel wool on hand (for my guitar necks and fretboards!) I decided to give it a shot on some parts that were somewhat hidden (inside of the shift lever and top of the footpeg mount on my VS1400 Intruder. I have to give the steel wool a big thumbs up! It worked as advertised.

I had polished the parts last night with Eagle One and removed a lot of rust but still had some stubborn rust left. The steel wool completely cleaned the inside of the gear shift lever and removed about 90% of the really bad rust on the foot peg bracket. Results were better than I expected. I can see no damage to the chrome! I do believe I can still get more of the rust off with another application tomorrow.

It seems the steel wool is just abrasive enough to cut the stubborn rust that the Eagle One left behind but not so abrasive as to damage the chrome! Very Nice, of course your milage may vary, bit I am a happy camper. Of course we are talking here about parts with surface rust. The chrome is still intact and the rust has not eaten through the chrome.

My only concern now is for protecting the parts from any further rust. This is especially important since these surfaces are typically not accessable for routine polishing, I had to do some dis-assembly to get at them.

So far I'm thinking some kind of clear coating may be in order? Anybody been down this road before? I have read (here?) that the Yamaha branded clear coat in a very good product. I'll keep digging and report my findings, but your advise is always appreciated.

Thank You!
James <><

[Escobarclan]

Yep, steel wool and any kind of oil is cheap and works like a dream. That's what I've always used for my business.

As far as the embedded rust, it sounds as though it's in gotten down to the metal the chrome is on, or it has eaten far enough down that it is at or below the level of the chrome.

Don't clearcoat chrome! It turns yellow and it's hard to get off.

If you can't get the rust out, do the best you can and then either hit the rust with a car wax, or use clear nail polish and hit IT with steel wool when it dries.

www.escobarpolishing.com

[GaThumper]

Thank you for sharing your advice! After some more reading tonight I had ruled out clear coating. Most of what I'm dealing with is surface rust, some is more stubborn than others requiring the steel wool. I do have some parts that are beyond saving the chrome, rust has eaten through the chrome and caused it to flake. Any of these parts that are re-used will probably have the rust removed and converted and then be prepped and painted. All in all I have made more progress than I would have thought possible when I started.

My next big project will be the engine side covers on my GS1000. I thought I was going back to a factory type finish and re-clearcoat them, but after seeing some of the polished covers in the other thread, I'm now leaning toward just polishing them.

Thanks Again!
James <><

[Escobarclan]

Well, good luck. If you need any polishing tips PM me or you can go to my business website and look in the 'polishing' section. That section alone is not finished yet, but it will be soon. I'm putting in alot of info on the polishing process for do-it-yourselfers.

https://www.escobarpolishing.com

[GaThumper]

What about the rust that can't be removed with steel wool? Should I try to sand it off? Use a rust converter? I have some on the top of the control bracket on the Intruder. The foot pegs, shifter, brake, and kick stand attach to this plate that bolts to the bottom of the frame under the engine.

This surface is not visable so I can get away with pretty much anything, I just want to try and prevent any further advance by the rust. I guess I can drop the bracket several times a year and keep after the rust, but it would look fine to me if I go ahead and remove and/or convert it and paint with some aluminum colored paint.

I've used the Extend brand from Loctite corp before on some rust wrought iron and angle iron and it seems to do OK. One of my riding buddies has recommended some kind of wheel clear coatin? I haven't looked into that any farther.

Thanks,
James

[Escobarclan]

If the area isn't visible you can use any kind of sealer.

The trick is to keep oxidation from occuring, and it means sealing the area from exposure to oxygen.

Converters can be used, but for your need it will only help for appearances, which you won't need if the area can't be seen. Rust can be converted, but it wont stop the oxidation process.

If the area is hidden, you can seal it with almost anything, I like to use clear nail polish. A clear epoxy works as well. If the area is widespread, then use clear spray paint, then sand it all down with #0000 steel wool to level the surface and leave the coat only in the depressions.

This is only temporary, 1 to 5 years if the area is sealed well and not heated much (like around the exhaust pipes. If the area is visible clean it and then use carwax, which won't last long.

The only way to truly get your finish back is if the rust hasn't eaten below the thickness of the chrome or just paying a re-chroming service.

https://www.escobarpolishing.com