Two Part Paint Question +

[stiksave]

Reproduction decals dont currently carry the 83 GS1100ED, they only have the GS1100EZ in red. It is close, they are making me a first run of decals which has a clear border where the red shows through instead of having red color in the decal. I also requested the black tail decal.

They should be done this week you should ask about a set for your self.

Posplayr

Have You seen this bike? http://www.ronh.org/suz1100e_83.htm

Stiksave

[cozee]

The reason for the recommended wait before clearing the decals is to allow the base clear time for the solvents to dry out. If not, when you apply the top coat(s) of clear, the trapped solvents can very easily cause the vinyl decals to wrinkle rather badly. I'd suggest waiting 5 days before applying the decals as escaping solvents can become trapped and cause bubbling under the vinyl. I'd also suggest a light mist coat of clear over the decals prior to burying them. This will give the clear a chance to "bite" the vinyl and reduce the risk of a run. And if you do not want to see the edge line that will show, after 2 good coats of clear, wait at least 24 hours, wet sand the tank with 1000 grit till the edge line is removed, then shoot 2 more coats of clear. The decals will look as though they are under a mile of clear and when one looks, the tank will be as smooth as glass because the edge lines are gone!

[buttonhook]

Ok I have some questions,
I repainted my wifes GS with DUPLI-COLOR (spray bomb). I used their primer, base, and clear. I prepped the parts then sprayed the primer. I let it dry between coats. I then wet sanded with 320 grit. I reprepped it for base. I sprayed the base (3 coats) and the clear (3 coats) I allowed it to tack between coats. I let it dry almost 2 full day. I then wet sanded with 2000 grit, buffed with 3M med. and light compound. I then polished and waxed. It looked great.\\/

(pictures before) but it got gas on the tank on our ride this weekend and it took the paint off down to the old finish!!!!Why would gas take the paint off after a week of drying. I have contacted dupli-color about this but they have not responded yet.

[earlfor]

Duplicolor is not a gas resistant paint. It would'nt make any difference if you let it dry a year. A drop of gas would still instantly eat right through it..

Earl


[quote=buttonhook
Why would gas take the paint off after a week of drying. I have contacted dupli-color about this but they have not responded yet.

[buttonhook]

[quote=earlfor;834835]Duplicolor is not a gas resistant paint. It would'nt make any difference if you let it dry a year. A drop of gas would still instantly eat right through it..

Earl


[quote=buttonhook
Why would gas take the paint off after a week of drying. I have contacted dupli-color about this but they have not responded yet.[/QUOTE]

Well that is information I could have used yesterday!! I can't believe that they are marketing this stuff as OEM replacement for spot fixes and it peels off with gas and they don't give any warnings.

What if I painted it with the dupli-color and then had it it cleared with a gas resistant clear??
And what would be a gas/chemical resistant clear (I need and spray can please)

[tkent02]

Not that hard to keep paint off the finish, also not that hard to redo it. When you get it refinished, shoot it with a real automotive clear coat, it will resist the gas next time.

Nice looking paint job, by the way.

[buttonhook]

Not that hard to keep paint off the finish, also not that hard to redo it. When you get it refinished, shoot it with a real automotive clear coat, it will resist the gas next time.

Nice looking paint job, by the way.

That would work and we have talked about having that done once I repaint but I could do it myself if I had the stuff. I have a gun and the compressor but my compressor has set out in the barn for awhile and has water in it. So that would ruin the finish. Is there anything in a spray can that I could use? What about the stuff they sell for motorcycles (rite color???) or something like that.

[tkent02]

Fix your compressor.

[earlfor]

I spent 25 years pulling a spray gun trigger painting yachts and I've probably used most types of multi component painting systems. I never found any that I couldnt recoat as soon as the first coat had set to what I call a hard sticky stage. If you work wet on wet coat, there is never a trapped solvent problem because everything is still soft enough that the solvents penetrate to the surface. Also, working wet on wet eliminates the need for sanding between coats, which all require if 24 hours pass between coats. Paint adhesion is reduced if fully dry paint coats are not sanded. As for applying decals, you will need to let the base coat fully dry for three reasons. 1. Its damn difficult to apply a decal to wet paint :-) 2. To insure a smooth, bubble free decal surface and to be able to reposition the decal, you will need to wet the paint and decal with soapy water and squeegee the decal flat. With the water as a lubricant, you can reposition the decal if need be. To be able to do this, the paint must be dry. Lastly, the chemicals in uncured multi component paint systems most always will destroy decals, so if applying decals, the paint must be dry. On this point, 24 hours is about minimum I would consider. Some decals are more sensitive than others and at 24 hours, you will have to sand anyway.

Once the decal is applied and dry, you will need to lightly sand the whole tank and the decal. Paint adhesion is lousy on top of a shiny, slick decal.
At this stage, (1st clearcoat) I prefer soapy water and wet/dry #1200 grit sandpaper. Use a sanding sponge with the paper wrapped over the sponge. If you do not use a sponge, finger pressure will cut valleys in your paint.

To eliminate some sanding, I usually apply three thin clear coats, wet on wet about 3 minutes apart. Let that dry overnight, wetsand a final time and then apply a last full coverage clear coat.

Earl

[earlfor]

On the bottom of your compressor tank, you will find a small twist valve. It is normal for a compressor tank to build up water. (its impossible to compress air without producing water LOL ) That drain is for draining the water. Turn the compressor on and let it run until the tank is fully pressurized and the moror shuts off. Then open the valve. all the water will go bye bye. Uhhhh, do it somewhere you dont mind having a big puddle of rusty water staining things. :-)

Earl

That would work and we have talked about having that done once I repaint but I could do it myself if I had the stuff. I have a gun and the compressor but my compressor has set out in the barn for awhile and has water in it. So that would ruin the finish. Is there anything in a spray can that I could use? What about the stuff they sell for motorcycles (rite color???) or something like that.

[buttonhook]

On the bottom of your compressor tank, you will find a small twist valve. It is normal for a compressor tank to build up water. (its impossible to compress air without producing water LOL ) That drain is for draining the water. Turn the compressor on and let it run until the tank is fully pressurized and the moror shuts off. Then open the valve. all the water will go bye bye. Uhhhh, do it somewhere you dont mind having a big puddle of rusty water staining things. :-)

Earl

yeah I do that, but it will always have some water in it and I dont have a dryer on the gun. so rather than buy the extra stuff I was hoping that there was a company that made a spray can with the right stuff in it.

like this stuff I think???

http://www.automotivetouchup.com/spray_paint_clearcoat.aspx

[earlfor]

There are no gas proof single part paints on the market that I know of. Nothing in a spray can is gas proof. The multi part, automotive finishes (clear coat or color coat) will react to Duplicolor the same way gasoline does. I once was "forced" to clear coat a duplicolor coating with a gas proof automostive clear finish. The only way I found I could do it was to seal the Duplicolor with a water base acrylic lacquer (which does not react to Duplicolor, but is too soft to use as a finish coat), and then to coat that with the harder automotive multip part paint (which does not react to a water based barrier coat). It was a difficult job. If I had it to do again, I would strip the Duplicolor off and just use automotive materials that were compatible with each other and impervious to gasoline in the first place.

Earl



[quote=buttonhook


Well that is information I could have used yesterday!! I can't believe that they are marketing this stuff as OEM replacement for spot fixes and it peels off with gas and they don't give any warnings.

What if I painted it with the dupli-color and then had it it cleared with a gas resistant clear??
And what would be a gas/chemical resistant clear (I need and spray can please)[/quote]

[buttonhook]

There are no gas proof single part paints on the market that I know of. Nothing in a spray can is gas proof. The multi part, automotive finishes (clear coat or color coat) will react to Duplicolor the same way gasoline does. I once was "forced" to clear coat a duplicolor coating with a gas proof automostive clear finish. The only way I found I could do it was to seal the Duplicolor with a water base acrylic lacquer (which does not react to Duplicolor, but is too soft to use as a finish coat), and then to coat that with the harder automotive multip part paint (which does not react to a water based barrier coat). It was a difficult job. If I had it to do again, I would strip the Duplicolor off and just use automotive materials that were compatible with each other and impervious to gasoline in the first place.

Earl

So would I be able to primer over the dupli-color and start from there?? or do I need to strip it all off

[earlfor]

I dont even have to look at the chemical composition to tell you it will not withstand gasoline. The paint you need to use for it to be impervious to gas should be catalyzed and then set by chemical reaction. If the type of paint you need was in a spray can, it would already be set and solid in the can. :-)

Earl

yeah I do that, but it will always have some water in it and I dont have a dryer on the gun. so rather than buy the extra stuff I was hoping that there was a company that made a spray can with the right stuff in it.

like this stuff I think???
http://www.automotivetouchup.com/spr...clearcoat.aspx

[earlfor]

Frankly, I would strip the Duplicolor and start over. It is far more work and trouble to try to make due with it than it is to remove it. Hell, all you will need is a wet rag and some mineral spirits and the stuff will wipe right off. LOL

Note:
Automotive finishes are alcohol based and EXTREMELY intolerant to oil, grease or any petroleum base products. Finger prints are too oily for the paint to tolerate, so make sure you are working with a CLEAN tank when you get ready to paint.

You can mix and match some primers, color coats and clear coats in sutomotive finishes, but it is not a good idea if you are not familiar with the various paint characteristics and compositions. You are best off to use the primer, color/base, catalyst, reducer, and clear coat specified by the manufacturer of the paint you choose. Picking incompatible components from different manufacturers can leave you with a big, expensive, mess.

Earl

So would I be able to primer over the dupli-color and start from there?? or do I need to strip it all off