Finally took the plunge.

[simon kuether]

My plan was to take a year or two to do mine as well,but once I started ,I just couldn't help myself.I couldn't put new and old back together because the NEW made the OLD look just sooooo old.I guess I've got the GS addiction.Good thing I'm not into chemicals.Cheers,Simon.

[Matchless]

OK, frame up to now has swingarm back and steering stem on with new bearings. Wire harness is fitted and reconditioned. Forks are apart and I am still awaiting delivery of the fork seals from the USA. Set of new cables have just arrived. New wheel bearings are also at hand and back tyre still to be pulled to allow rim to be polished and painted. Have been spending time cleaning and painting small items such as gauge brackets and cover. Final drive casing and fork polishing is in progress. No serious progress worth any pictures until fork is back on. I have also replaced all fork pinch bolts with stainless steel.
Received confirmation today from Athena on the use of the latest spec headgasket and I may start assembling top end on motor next week. Will post some pictures then.
I did the coil modification and put together a pictorial on the method I used as well as another on the forks to date, just need to complete when the seals go in. These are available if anyone wants it, just shoot me a PM.

[Matchless]

I finally sat down and did my coil relay modification when overhauling the harness and while the bike (GS1000G 1980) was apart. Here is a link to the exact step by step procedure and some photos with the diagram that I followed a few weeks back. http://www.mediafire.com/?xhvz02jxzuv

[Nessism]

Enjoying this thread but need more photos please!

[Matchless]

Thanks for reminding me! I will have to make work of it tomorrow when I tidy up my workshop. We have had some poor weather here and my progress has slowed down a bit.
If only those #!%*! fork seals will arrive then I can get the forks set up and back in and some pictures showing noticeable progress.

[posplayr]

Matchless

Thanks for the details on the coil modification. TMy GS1100ED now has all new harness and handlebar switches but the ignition relay modification is a nice modification to insure good ignition.

The GS750 should get the same treatment.

Gotta clean the garage up first though.

Posplayr

[Matchless]

Glad you can use it. Your project looks outstanding and the amount of work you put into it was staggering. You can really be proud of your bike!

[Matchless]

Some small progress made. Fork seals have arrived and will assemble later this week.


Parts laid out while cleaning garage, new cables, polished forks, painting disks and gauge cluster cover. Awaiting rechrome of front emblem and headlight ring. Wheels also in to polishers and then getting new bearings.

[simon kuether]

Very impressive.That's how they all should be done(that's just me though--and I AM a bit weird).Cheers,Simon.

[Flaggo60]

Matchless,
Just noticed the polishing job on the final drive housing-fabulous. Do you plan on coating the bare metal with a clear coat?

[Matchless]

Matchless,
Just noticed the polishing job on the final drive housing-fabulous. Do you plan on coating the bare metal with a clear coat?

I am in two minds on that. Some advise to just polish it now and again and others have had problems with the clear coating after a period of time. At the moment it is just polished.
We do not get all the fancy types of coatings around here. I may give it a very thin coat of clear, and this means the wheels, forks and side covers as well. I think the problem after polishing is that microscopic bits of compound is left in the little pits and scratches and the usual clear coat does not etch properly to the metal and loosens up over time. I am not sure if it is possible to get it out any other way than some sort of chemical dip that does not affect the gloss.
If anyone has any advice on this please do so!

[Flaggo60]

For my own two cents worth, if you opt not to coat you have to be religious about keeping the bare metal polished. If you let it go, it will pit and be hard to maintain. I did the side covers of my engine and while I maintained it, it looked great. Store it over a winter and the problems start. Just my experience.

[Matchless]

For my own two cents worth, if you opt not to coat you have to be religious about keeping the bare metal polished. If you let it go, it will pit and be hard to maintain. I did the side covers of my engine and while I maintained it, it looked great. Store it over a winter and the problems start. Just my experience.

The polisher doing my wheels (they are too big for my machine) said the exact same thing. Do you think an ordinary coat of clear laquer will be good enough?

[Flaggo60]

The polisher doing my wheels (they are too big for my machine) said the exact same thing. Do you think an ordinary coat of clear laquer will be good enough?

I have no experience with clear coat products and that, unfortunately, is why I have a pitted surface on my once-gorgeous polished engine side covers. I did once try a rattle can of the stuff from the local all-purpose automotive megastore and ended up having to remove the whole mess. I'll be watching this thread with hope for an answer. I wonder if your polisher could suggest a clear coat spec or product that would work ... ?

[Matchless]

I will definitely ask him. We have a 2k clearcoat that is mixed with a hardener that may work, but again I think the main problem is that it is not developed to etch to bare metal like some primers.

Edit: A supplier has confirmed that 2k clearcoat will not work on polished aluminium, but only on sanded.