Gauge faces

[tkent02]

I'll take another set, for my 750/1000, I will get back to you with specifics....

[TheCafeKid]

Still waiting to actually hang it up for the winter so i can send you my ES's gauges Rudy, But I AM in for a set for that thing. Maybe a set for the cafe too...we'll see..

[renobruce]

I have a suggestion for those that have the 85 mph speedos. Why not have a sticker made that goes up higher? I remember when I had my 850, I got into the speedo and took out that little pin that stops the needle. I could get the needle down to around the 6 o'clock position.

[tkent02]

I have a suggestion for those that have the 85 mph speedos. Why not have a sticker made that goes up higher? I remember when I had my 850, I got into the speedo and took out that little pin that stops the needle. I could get the needle down to around the 6 o'clock position.

The tach face he made me goes to I think 14,000, with no red line, the speedo goes to 180mph.
Any number could be done.
Just have to tell him what you want.

[portdave]

add me in

Bump......

Still looking for more folks for round two.

Been a little busy with the trailer build, and working on other folks bikes, but hope to get back into it soon. I know, I keep saying "soon", but it's still the plan.

I think you have my name on the list but just in case you don't add me in. Let me know the particulars. I have a 1978 GS750EC. No fuel gauge.

PM sent.

David

[rudy]

Wow, lots of replies! Ok, new price for this round will be $40 (instead of $35 last time) for just the standard two faces and a fuel gauge. Reason being, I had to eat the setup fee last time. ES models and stuff will have to wait for a quote, as they're different. I'm shooting for about 8 - 10 to make it worth while.

As for the different models. I know a little better what to look for in the differences between the different models and years and country of origin. Seems European ones are slightly different with the odo and trip meter being switched and the screw spacing slightly smaller. I think the diameter of all the faces are the same. So far there has been ones made for 750, 850, 1000, and 1100. This order will likely reach to the 300, 550 and I know there will be two ES models with complete dash.

Riding Again: Your 850 has the gas gauge in the middle. I don't have any measurements for that, so, if you would like that one to be done as well, you'll have to open it up and get some good measurements for me. The clock faces should be the same, but it'll be up to you to check against the measurements I provide in the proofs. I can put any designs you want on, as long as they're simple, and you want them to light up.

As for the rest of you folks, I'll update my list tonight whenever I get home. Will send out detail requests soon.

Thanks,
Rudy

[Agemax]

Wow, lots of replies! Ok, new price for this round will be $40 (instead of $35 last time) for just the standard two faces and a fuel gauge. Reason being, I had to eat the setup fee last time. ES models and stuff will have to wait for a quote, as they're different. I'm shooting for about 8 - 10 to make it worth while.

As for the different models. I know a little better what to look for in the differences between the different models and years and country of origin. Seems European ones are slightly different with the odo and trip meter being switched and the screw spacing slightly smaller. I think the diameter of all the faces are the same. So far there has been ones made for 750, 850, 1000, and 1100. This order will likely reach to the 300, 550 and I know there will be two ES models with complete dash.

Riding Again: Your 850 has the gas gauge in the middle. I don't have any measurements for that, so, if you would like that one to be done as well, you'll have to open it up and get some good measurements for me. The clock faces should be the same, but it'll be up to you to check against the measurements I provide in the proofs. I can put any designs you want on, as long as they're simple, and you want them to light up.

As for the rest of you folks, I'll update my list tonight whenever I get home. Will send out detail requests soon.

Thanks,
Rudy

dont forget rudy that some european fuel gauge faces might be different as well, as mine is. just a heads up mate in case someone else may have the same as mine

[fat_sac]

Put me down for another set for my Kawi bobber. I don't have time this week to take it apart but I'll send all the proper measurements next week when I have a chance to tear it down. Gettin em all ready for Harvest Classic as we speak tho.

[El Rider]

I am interested in a set for my 1100L. I was working with whiteguages.com but they have not gotten what I want together yet. I was wanting something UV reative for night vision.

[GS750GUY]

Gauge Faces

How in the world do you get inside the gauges in order to replace the faces? My gauges appear to be a sealed unit.
GS750GUY

[argonsagas]

How in the world do you get inside the gauges in order to replace the faces? My gauges appear to be a sealed unit.
GS750GUY

Results of search, Courtesy Mc Loud

http://www.thegsresources.com/garage...ide_gauges.htm


I did this a few years ago, before the cut-off suggestion was made, but it may be a better way.

My way was rather brutal, as it used the second worst implement in the tool box: a pair of vice grips. ( a Hammer might be worse)

I wrapped duct tape all around one jaw of the pointed vice grips. This was intended to avoid scratches to the case.

The vice grips were then locked in a bench vise.

With the covered jaw against the outside, I gripped the ring lightly with the front tooth of the vise grips and bent it SLIGHTLY backwards.

After that, holding a slight pressure, the gauge was turned against the vice grips a full revolution, then bent a tiny bit more, and turning repeated It came clear on the third turn.


Closing it was easy....Pressing the shank of a screwdriver against the turned edge and going all around it, with just a bit of pressure, then repeating this until it was in place. You can see the bend marks in the metal, if you look for them, but the seal and glass went back into place and never leaked.

This worked, but if you wish to do it yourself, you should note that patience is required, and it must be done slowly, because using too much pressure at any one time will break the glass.

Again, the cut-off suggestion seems to be a good idea, and probably has less risk.

[Agemax]

Results of search, Courtesy Mc Loud

http://www.thegsresources.com/garage...ide_gauges.htm


I did this a few years ago, before the cut-off suggestion was made, but it may be a better way.

My way was rather brutal, as it used the second worst implement in the tool box: a pair of vice grips. ( a Hammer might be worse)

I wrapped duct tape all around one jaw of the pointed vice grips. This was intended to avoid scratches to the case.

The vice grips were then locked in a bench vise.

With the covered jaw against the outside, I gripped the ring lightly with the front tooth of the vise grips and bent it SLIGHTLY backwards.

After that, holding a slight pressure, the gauge was turned against the vice grips a full revolution, then bent a tiny bit more, and turning repeated It came clear on the third turn.


Closing it was easy....Pressing the shank of a screwdriver against the turned edge and going all around it, with just a bit of pressure, then repeating this until it was in place. You can see the bend marks in the metal, if you look for them, but the seal and glass went back into place and never leaked.

This worked, but if you wish to do it yourself, you should note that patience is required, and it must be done slowly, because using too much pressure at any one time will break the glass.

Again, the cut-off suggestion seems to be a good idea, and probably has less risk.

i opened mine with the bottle top opener on my swiss army knife. as mentioned do it slowly and carefully, just working your way around till the top pops off. crimped them back on with a pair of pliers.

[Phaseman]

LOL ViceGrips!

Not laughing at you GS750GUY , I used the same method with a set of channel locks. Now I'm looking for a new speedo.... Wish I had seen the Dremel cutting method first. I guess the channel locks would have worked but I was just a little too impatient, resulting in a shattered lens.

P.S. If you do try the pliers/channel lock method, a shower cap works nicely to temporarily keep the water out of your gauges!

Sooooo glad I found this forum!

[argonsagas]

Not laughing at you GS750GUY , I used the same method with a set of channel locks. Now I'm looking for a new speedo.... Wish I had seen the Dremel cutting method first. I guess the channel locks would have worked but I was just a little too impatient, resulting in a shattered lens.

P.S. If you do try the pliers/channel lock method, a shower cap works nicely to temporarily keep the water out of your gauges!

Sooooo glad I found this forum!

The world does not have to end if the glass shatters.

You can visit a glass shop and get them to cut a small piece for you. All you need do is give them the diameter needed.

Alternatively, use 1/8 inch clear plexiglass, or a similar product, which you can cut and shape at home. LEXAN works best because it stands up to sunlight better than others.

[Phaseman]

Shattered Glass

I think I'll try that, most of the instrument clusters I find aren't in as good of shape as mine.