Gun Bluefor rusty old bits...

[po-boy]

OK, so in a brief, caffeine induced haze a few weeks back, I came up w/ the idea to use gun blue for all my rusted, pitted nuts, bolts etc. Maybe I'm just anal, but I hate seeing gorgeous bikes w/ rusty hardware. This morning, in a my daily java buzz, I tried it out on the rear wheel hardware, including the sprocket. Might just be onto something here... As w/ any finishing, prep is the key here. All the bolts, nuts, washer tabs etc. were wire wheeled to bare metal or at least clean. Some areas of chrome were left alone after the wire wheel. The end result looks far better than the junkyard appearance before. Birchwood Casey Gun Blue is what I used, $6 a bottle, probably enough to do damn near every bolt on the bike. Just follow the directions, about three applications is about right.Here's a poor pic of the results, mind you, all hardware was literally flaking w/ rust and pitted chrome, especially the sprocket. Remember, BUDGET, probably just saved $30 in new hardware, priceless...

[Hammered]

Not bad. But remember, gunblue needs to be redone. More so if its not oiled. If you dont mind your hardware black, this Black oxide kit works great. And if you dont like black, these guys have just about every means to home finish any metal surface.

I dont work for od sell their stuff. Ive just used it.

[po-boy]

Keep in mind, this was done as a CHEAP alternative to new hardware or other pricey solutions out there. I agree, the Caswell stuff is "top shelf", just not in the budget for this project. Gun bluing is pretty durable in my experience, Ive seen guys hunt hard in the rain, etc. for years and never re-blue, but like any steel, it will rust over time if not kept up. Hopefully this will help some of the CHEAP builders, restorers out there. Not the best solution, just an affordable option...

[jmanz6]

A quick way to get rid of rust is to get some Muratic acid and dip your parts in that after getting the flake rust off. If you can warm it up it works even faster. You can't leave the parts in very long though as the acid will start to make the steel brittle. I use it on all my parts before I take them to the plater to be zinc plated. He loves it when I bring him prepped parts. The best part is when you are done with the acid you can use it to clean your concrete driveway. It will make a dirty stained driveway look like new in about 10 minutes. Just wash off and you are done.

[drhach]

You are aware that gun bluing is a form of controlled rusting? What this means is that if you don't keep it oiled and dry, the rusting process will pick up where you stopped it, and it will happen fast.

[Zook]

How can ya keep it dry when it's wet with oil? I know, I know, I oil my things that go BANG regularly.

Seems like a sprocket will stay oiled quite well.

[jmanz6]

Dry as in no water I'm guessing. Wet with oil will keep the rust from starting. I've used the Caswell black oxide with good results. The best results are with a part that has been zinc plated first then black oxide treated. This gives the look of the black oxide and the protection that the zinc layer provides. Best of both worlds. Not as cost effective though.

[po-boy]

You are aware that gun bluing is a form of controlled rusting? What this means is that if you don't keep it oiled and dry, the rusting process will pick up where you stopped it, and it will happen fast.

Yup, I'm well aware of what blueing is, been doin to custom built rifles for years... As I stated in an earlier post, this was done as an alternative to new hardware or more expensive coatings. You be the judge, bare rusting metal or cheapo cold gun blue? My method is a cheap alternative, not the best solution out there.

[drhach]

Even humidity from the air will start the rust process. I hope it works for you. I wouldn't recommend it personally.

[beergood]

As I stated in an earlier post, this was done as an alternative to new hardware or more expensive coatings. You be the judge, bare rusting metal or cheapo cold gun blue? My method is a cheap alternative, not the best solution out there.

I get your point, and I think it's a good one. I just ordered some and I am going to try it on some of the more unsightly bolt heads I have floating around my bike.

I'll chime in with the results.

[tkent02]

I get your point, and I think it's a good one. I just ordered some and I am going to try it on some of the more unsightly bolt heads I have floating around my bike.

I'll chime in with the results.

Just curious, what would it look like on fork legs?

[po-boy]

Just curious, what would it look like on fork legs?

Aluminum, stainless, chrome, zinc coated, none of them will blue w/ the cold blue, or even hot dipped blue IIRC. Already tried the aluminum, was thinkin the same thing.

[drhach]

Yeah, bluing only works for steel. It is a rusting process, so, if your stuff don't rust, it won't blue. On the other hand, aluminum takes anodizing very well and you have a much better choice of colors, including blue.

[lecroy]

.... been doin to custom built rifles for years...

Care to expand on this?

[po-boy]

Care to expand on this?

Sure,
Back in the day, one of my other hobbies was taking old millitary rifles, mostly Mausers, and turning them into custom hunting rifles. Basically stripped em down to the bare action, replace the barrel, shaped the stocks from exotic wood blanks, resshaped the bolts, replaced the trigger w/ adjustable ones, glass bed the action into the stock, hand rubbed oil finish and then "hot blue" all steel parts and polish to mirror like finish. Alot of fun, but just like customizing bikes, you'll never get your money back that you sink into them. I've never been able to leave anything "stock". It all started as a kid, taking apart brand new bicycles, hotwheels, etc. to make em look "cool" w/ different paint, parts, etc... Next thing you know it's drivin a brand new truck to the garage to lower it, chop the top off, paint, sound system, the list goes on and on.