side cover problems

[Anonymous]

are the side covers on the engine supposed to be colored gray or is that caused by oxidation. i'm talking about the metal parts that say "suzuki" on them. what can i use to get them back to the stainless steel color? also, what do you do about the spots on the aluminum wheels. i want them to be shining too.

[Dark Jedi]

Gray?

Sounds like the protective coating has been stripped or worn off. You are likely seeing Aluminum oxidation. That's rust for aluminum...

Take a 3M pad to a small part of it and see if it's shiny inderneath. If so, you can polish them up if you clear coat them right away.

[Anonymous]

If you intend on polishing them, the easiest way to go about it
is to make sure the clearcoat is stripped completely off using
paint STRIPPER not thinner. After the clearcoat is off use some
1000 grit wet sandpaper and work your way up to 1500 then
2000. Keep the paper wet and rinsed off, otherwise it will clog
up on you. Then finish off with mother's polish and a good buff
and your done. I wouldn't recommend getting the parts re-cleared
because chances are you will trap some chemicals in between
and be doing this all over again. It's easier just to polish it every now and then. Brian

[Anonymous]

Actually, I would suggest getting the engine glass-beaded at a machine shop. Sure, the engine would have to be taken apart first...but this is a best way to get any and all corrosion off the engine. Then there are a few options as far as coating afterwards. Powder-coating, Ceramic-coating, regular paint (that can handle the temp. changes). Then any of those options can be finished off with a nice clear coat for added protection. It really isn't that much money (in the scheme of things). I can have my 1980 GS1100E glass-beaded...then ceramic or powder coated for $150-$300. I think that is WELL worth the $$. Especially knowing that it will look like new....

Something to think about....ya know?

Rudi
1980 GS1100E

[Anonymous]

I find the easiest way is rouge on a buffing wheel. Cuts down the time required to bring to polish. You can get different grades depending upon the material (i.e. chrome, aluminumn, stainless steel, brass, etc. A 1 Kilogram ingot goes a long way.

If the rust is real bad on chrome or oxidation real heavy on aluminumn, you can gently clean with abrasive pads (like 3-M) at a very low RPM with a die grinder or Dremel. But only use when really necessary and experiment slowly as you can scuff pretty bad. Try it on a small area that is hard to see and then finish with rouge.

Aluminumn cleans up like chrome. Very nice finish. Even on chrome, I will start with the aluminum grade rouge and finish with chrome grade rouge.

[Anonymous]

This would be VERY hard to do on my engine. With all the fins...it would be difficult to get in there and polish. Wouldn't it?

[Dark Jedi]

This would be VERY hard to do on my engine. With all the fins...it would be difficult to get in there and polish. Wouldn't it?

A thin buffer wheel does this nicely.

That is a wheel for your drill made up of cloth strips. get one thin enough to fit between the fins and buff away. Apply paste abrasives as needed, and rinse engine often during buffing.
Start with a low RPM until you get the hang of it. It's easy to wedge that puppy in there and give your wrist a nasty twist.

[Anonymous]

You don't say what year your bike is so be careful. The "SUZUKI" on your side covers may be painted/silk screened on. If you use the above methods which rely on paint remover, you will end up with a blank plate. On some bikes '80-82 GS750E's they are very thin aluminum plates with the writing painted on, then clear-coated. The plate is held onto the case by a thin layer of adhesive on the back of the plate. It is almost impossible to refinish this plate. I tried the wet-sand & polish route and it took off the painted lettering. I pulled the plate off the stator cover and tried to buff it. It was so thin that the buffer caught an edge, and threw the plate across the garage. The plate bent on one edge, and I could not straighten it out very well. I was lucky and found a NOS one on e-bay. I ended up polishing the one on the right side by removing the case. It looks better completely polished (with no lettering) that it did corroded. Still looking for a NOS plate for the right side

[Doze]

Mark, you can still get new emblems from bike bandit for about $13 apiece.
The ignition cover emblem Suzuki part # is 68235-49500
The stator cover emblem Suzuki part # is 68233-49500. Mind you these are for a 82 GS 750, they are a black background with silver lettering. I'm not sure if the 81 GS 750 is the same or if it's silver with black lettering. Hope that helps you out.
Doze.

[Anonymous]

thanks for all the help. i'll try and polish them up and maybe i'll put up some pictures after i'm done.