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    Joe,

    I'm about too on the 700E.

    It has been a while since the last adjustment.

    But, since this relates to your machine as well as many of the 16v engines.

    Per the manual on the 700/750E ES/others, adjustment is 0.09-0.13mm (0.004-0.005") is splitting hairs here. On the low side, on the high side, there is not a high side or low side in the spec. Dead nut is the phrase.

    Now, for those who have done miltiple valve adjustments as miles accumulate on the 16v engines enlighten us.. 8v engines speak out if you need too.

    Which way does the valve terrain usually go?

    A. It loosens up?

    B. It tightens up?


    I know, do a search.

    Everything I have read says tightens up.

    Maybe wrong.

    Makes sense to me, all the parts are steel, but the head. My guess is the aluminum head takes the beating. Correct me if I am wrong. The valves sink, in turn the valves become tighter.

    I think I have read that explaination in a reply from Ed somewhere.

    Comment


      Originally posted by renobruce View Post
      That paint job looks fantastic! Did you purposely tease us by just taking pics of small sections??
      yep! no not really, I'm waiting for the parts to rebuild the forks and replace seals so I can re-assemble the front end. wait, wait, wait..... The tank was acid dipped but still has some rust in it. Wondering if I should use some form of tank liner POR-15? any suggestions?

      Also need to replace the rubber grommets for the plastics..

      Last edited by Guest; 07-24-2009, 08:44 AM.

      Comment


        Originally posted by tejasmud View Post
        Joe,

        I'm about too on the 700E.

        It has been a while since the last adjustment.

        But, since this relates to your machine as well as many of the 16v engines.

        Per the manual on the 700/750E ES/others, adjustment is 0.09-0.13mm (0.004-0.005") is splitting hairs here. On the low side, on the high side, there is not a high side or low side in the spec. Dead nut is the phrase.

        Now, for those who have done miltiple valve adjustments as miles accumulate on the 16v engines enlighten us.. 8v engines speak out if you need too.

        Which way does the valve terrain usually go?

        A. It loosens up?

        B. It tightens up?


        I know, do a search.

        Everything I have read says tightens up.

        Maybe wrong.

        Makes sense to me, all the parts are steel, but the head. My guess is the aluminum head takes the beating. Correct me if I am wrong. The valves sink, in turn the valves become tighter.

        I think I have read that explaination in a reply from Ed somewhere.
        With only 8600 miles on mine do you think it needs it?

        Comment


          Originally posted by jwhelan65 View Post
          With only 8600 miles on mine do you think it needs it?

          Just depends on the PO, and how well the bike was maintained.

          If no initial adjustments were ever done, or no record, yep, in a heartbeat.

          It is easy, best to just do it and know.

          Sort of like the forks.

          Comment


            Originally posted by tejasmud View Post
            Which way does the valve terrain usually go?

            A. It loosens up?

            B. It tightens up?

            They tighten up, so looser is better (lasts longer before needing another adjustment) than tighter.

            Originally posted by jwhelan65 View Post
            With only 8600 miles on mine do you think it needs it?
            My 1150 has 7000 miles. I checked them at 2500 and they were all fine. I checked them again at 5800 and 4 needed adjustment.
            85 GS1150E May '06 BOM
            79 GS1000S Wes Cooley Beast





            Comment


              Agreed, always better to be a bit looser than to tight and burn a valve, I just did mine because I was not sure WHEN they were last done or checked and when I did check them I did find 3-5 of them alittle tight. I set mine at .005 which they were all pretty much at already but I do feel better that at least I have checked them. Sounds like you coud just get a pint/quart (what ever the kit had I used) of the Por 15 and be done with it and feel better about that Beatuiful painted tank.
              I'm almost done polishing the VC (What a pain) good enough for now anyway. The Por 15 sealant looks to have come out great and feels like steel.. (silver) I wasn't going to say anything about the painted over rubber groumets on the tank... LOL You must be going nuts now that the forks are all apart..

              Comment


                Originally posted by jwhelan65 View Post
                The tank was acid dipped but still has some rust in it. Wondering if I should use some form of tank liner POR-15?
                How bad is the rust? If it's just a few freckles, I'd leave it alone. I personally wouldn't want to be messing with that pretty tank if I absolutely didn't have to. With my luck I would probably drop it or spill crap on it. Maybe just run a fuel filter on it for awhile, and keep the tank full on a regular basis. If it's bad, then use the POR-15 stuff...much better than the Kream stuff.
                85 GS1150E May '06 BOM
                79 GS1000S Wes Cooley Beast





                Comment


                  Evapo Rust will eat the rust and not hurt the metal. Won't hurt paint either. Good stuff.
                  Ed

                  To measure is to know.

                  Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

                  Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

                  Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

                  KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

                  Comment


                    Originally posted by Nessism View Post
                    Evapo Rust will eat the rust and not hurt the metal. Won't hurt paint either. Good stuff.

                    Ordered some today..whats the best way to use it?

                    Comment


                      After removing the clip on the left fork, the seat would not budge, it was totally rusted shut. My good friend Mr Eric (Tejasmud ) up in McKinney Texas put it on a lathe and bored it out..ordred new seats with the fork parts I was able to salvage the clips. Thanks Eric!

                      Top of fork..





                      Last edited by Guest; 07-24-2009, 10:38 PM.

                      Comment


                        a few more





                        Comment


                          wow i pulled 2 gs700es engines in the last 24 hours what a pain only to swap from one frame to another i got a good bike with no title and a seized bike with a title funnnn funnnnnnnn

                          Comment


                            Originally posted by jwhelan65 View Post
                            After removing the clip on the left fork, the seat would not budge, it was totally rusted shut. My good friend Mr Eric (Tejasmud ) up in McKinney Texas put it on a lathe and bored it out..ordred new seats with the fork parts I was able to salvage the clips. Thanks Eric!
                            Not a problem Joe. Given this fork tube design was not a Suzuki highlight of the era, a dab of bearing grease smeared under the rubber caps to coat things should prevent them from ever getting this way again, I would think.

                            Comment


                              I am NOT looking foward to doing my forks !!! They look at least as bad if not worse, the tops of the fork tubes had NO caps and it was solid rust...

                              Good news is my VC is ready to go back on, I did a Semi sand/polish and it came out fairly decent, BUT I WANT to ride so it will have to wait for a total polish jod this winter, It really looks better then the pictures shows.

                              I still need to do a final buffing wheel polish in the morning before it goes back on. Tank Por 15ed and ready, Valves adjusted, New plug wires, New Clutch plates, new S/S front brake lines, Used 1100 R/R...

                              Comment


                                I may have a set of forks going soon... (if my upgrades work out as planned) They should come apart easy as there isn't even any pitting on the tubes. It's a desert bike.

                                1980 GS1000G - Sold
                                1978 GS1000E - Finished!
                                1980 GS550E - Fixed & given to a friend
                                1983 GS750ES Special - Sold
                                2009 KLR 650 - Sold - gone to TX!
                                1982 GS1100G - Rebuilt and finished. - Sold
                                2009 TE610 - Dual Sporting around dreaming of Dakar..... - FOR SALE!

                                www.parasiticsanalytics.com

                                TWINPOT BRAKE UPGRADE LINKY: http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...e-on-78-Skunk/

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