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How to polish that part, for beginners

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    #16
    Chrome is really easy. AS LONG.........as there's any chrome left. If you're through to metal your basically up the creek.

    Chrome is REALLY hard, which makes it durable, but I'm sure you know that its' achilles heal is rust or chipping. If you have surface rust then buy 1 "sisal' wheel from www.estwoodco.com and also the 'tripoli' compound. (dont get the brick, get the smaller tube, it's much cheaper and will last for about 30 motorcycle projects).

    You can use a bench motor for this or an angle grinder, both will get the same results.

    The biggest trick to chrome is using a scotchbrite pad first, very, VERY lightly. You're trying to scrub the loose rust first. If you need a little more cutting action then go to a super fine steel wool, using it dry first or with an oil (such as wd-40 or compressor oil) to make it cut better. Degrease thoroughly and then you go straight to the tripoli.

    Don't ever buff in the same direction for more than a few secs, change often. After you're done don't forget to wax the finish to keep more rust from occuring.

    There ya go!

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      #17
      Thanks Mr Escobarclan!!! Have to admit, this was a great post, and I did learn alot from it.

      Now when my bike looks nice and shiny, I will blame you for it :0)

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        #18
        HI there. I have one final question for you: What is the difference between the white rouge and the red one (I think it is jewlers rouge)???

        By the way, I did get to the tripoli and it is starting to look great.

        Thank you Mr Escobarclan.

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          #19
          Jeweler's rouge is a general 'coloring' compound, made to work with most any kind of metal, with aluminum it will usually give a mirror finish, but takes quite a while. White rouge is almost the same in 'grit' but is especially for aluminum.

          Keep this in mind, it's crucial:

          If you finish a part with a rouge, it can only be maintained with that same rouge and the type of wheel you administer it with. What you have to ask yourself is, that when every part of you bike needs touching up, are you willing to take each part off and re-polish them ALL? This is a massive headache. I know people with show bikes that don't even do this. Mirror finishes take extreme amounts of commitment, we're talking obsessive compulsive here.

          What I strongly suggest is that you finish with Tripoli, but with a 'cotton' wheel or at least a very 'loose spiral', so you can use 'mother's' polish for upkeep. The finish is still amazing if you use a good and soft wheel.

          If you try to hand polish a rouge finish, say goodbye to the mirror look.

          Hope this helps.

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            #20
            AWESOME work guys!!! I have bookmarked your site and will use you in the future.
            Thanks!!

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              #21
              " Mirror finishes take extreme amounts of commitment, we're talking obsessive compulsive here."

              Ooops, that is definetly not me.

              What happens if you clear coat it??

              After this I won't bug you again

              Thanks for the info and the advise!!!

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                #22
                Mike you're not bothering me at all. Ask away! That's why I started this post.

                Clear coating is fine, we don't do that in my shop so I can't even refer a good brand, but...........

                When you clear coat, you are sealing in a finish, which is good, but you are also creating a barrier against touching up flaws. What if you put on a coat and 4 months later your parts begin to oxidize? A microscopic hole is all it takes for air and moisture to get in.

                COMING SOON to Escobar Polishing Co.!!

                POWDERCOATING !!!!

                Yeah baby, we're doing it all!

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                  #23
                  Thank you Mr. Escobar :0)

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                    #24
                    Great thread. Very useful info.

                    Tell me, what are you using to polish the tiny cracks and crevices...like float bowls, etc.? I bought some felt tips and cones for my die grinder, but none of them are small enough to get in alot of places.
                    85 GS1150E May '06 BOM
                    79 GS1000S Wes Cooley Beast





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                      #25
                      Great question, the answer is..........send the part to me! LOL, sorry.

                      No really, for hard to get areas you can do these easy things:

                      1) For rough (like Emery grit) hard to get areas:

                      Go to a hardware store or the 'crafts' section at Wal-mart, buy (dirt cheap) some round cut wooden sticks just a hair smaller than pencil size for die-grinders, half that for dremels (I think we buy 3/8 and 3/16).

                      Cut the sticks with a pair of dikes or shears into 2-3 inch lengths, mount one into your dremel or die-grinder, then using a rough file or sand paper (concrete works wonders too) grind the end of the stick into a cone or round shape depending on the kind of crevice you're polishing. This will take only a minute or two.

                      When the shape is achieved, touch the stick against the compound (if it melts from the friction it's even better). Then just go to town on that part!

                      2) For finer polishing to 'coloring':

                      Get some cue-tips, attach them to a dremel (you'll have to cut the 'shaft' of the cue-tip very short because it bends too easily and you may have to wrap tape around the stick to make it bigger for the dremel 'jaw'. Medical cue-tips are the best and last longer. A variable dremel with slower speeds will be more effective too.

                      If your grit is too rough, you'll notice the cue-tip will come apart faster, but no problem. Take a few cue-tips and hold them one by one over a lighter flame only close enough to where you can see the strands shrinking (you'll have to experiment on the shrinkage amount, I can't describe it). What this does is tightens the tip 'weave'. Then just spin the tip on some compound and you're smokin'.

                      Good luck Boys!

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                        #26
                        Thanks for the info. I'll give your methods a try. Funny that no one makes anything real small (not that I've seen, anyway) to get into those tight places.

                        I would send my stuff to you, but I'm pretty much set up to do my own. I have a bench buffer with two wheels that I bought from a local guy for 30 bucks. It came with a nice sewn 12" buff, and I bought a 10" loose-sewn buff at Harbor freight for the other side. I have a nice dremmel and a die grinder, and a good air compressor. Good enough for my own stuff. I don't plan on polishing for anyone else but me and maybe a few close friends. I'll certainly recommend you.
                        85 GS1150E May '06 BOM
                        79 GS1000S Wes Cooley Beast





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                          #27
                          Thanks Bruce, no problem. I'm big on saving money and doing things myself.

                          There are specialty attachments you can buy, cant remember where, but they are STEEP.

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