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    Sand blasting chrome

    Can you, or has anyone ever sand blasted chrome?
    I am looking to clean up an old set of rims and would like to get the chrome off.
    Is it possible with sand blasting?

    #2
    I’ve sandblasted chrome before with mixed results. If the chrome is loose, or if high blasting pressure is used, the chrome will flake off in places creating an uneven surface to paint on. I recommend a fairly low blast pressure; high enough to rough up the surface, but not so high as to remove any chrome that is solidly affixed to the metal.
    Ed

    To measure is to know.

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      #3
      Pretty hard to do with any success. I think you would need to bring them to a plater. I believe they have chem dips that can get it off.

      If you are just looking to repaint them however, I have had some success with scuffing the chrome with steel wool. While the paint adheres fairly well chips can and do appear over time or when the part is struck with stone or gravel.

      Not the easiest stuff to work with.

      Let us know what you end up doing.

      Good luck,
      Spyug

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        #4
        I tried it once. It gave a nice roughed up surface for paint, but did not remove the chrome. I have my doubts about how long the paint will stick since it doesn't really like chrome.

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          #5
          Originally posted by drhach View Post
          I tried it once. It gave a nice roughed up surface for paint, but did not remove the chrome. I have my doubts about how long the paint will stick since it doesn't really like chrome.
          As long as the surface is roughed up, and a good quality primer is used, the paint should stick just fine.

          Painting over chrome used to be common in the bicycle industry (before steel frames went the way of dinosaurs that is). Italian builders used to chrome the entire frame and then mask off certain areas for painting. In most of these cases the chrome is not even roughed up yet the paint sticks pretty well regardless.
          Ed

          To measure is to know.

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          Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

          KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

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            #6
            I agree that sand blasting works really well. You want to get every tiny bit of shiney, gone. I also tried the chrome platers chemical dip, and unfortunately it didn't work at all. The surface was still too smooth for the primer and paint to adhere to. I've blasted and painted lots of chrome fenders and wheels with very good results.
            1979 GS1000S,

            1982 Honda CX500 Turbo, 1982 Honda MB5 w/CR80 motor, 1977 Honda "nekid" Goldwing, 1976 Honda CB550F cafe', 1972 Honda XL250 cafe'

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              #7
              Originally posted by Nessism View Post
              As long as the surface is roughed up, and a good quality primer is used, the paint should stick just fine.

              Painting over chrome used to be common in the bicycle industry (before steel frames went the way of dinosaurs that is). Italian builders used to chrome the entire frame and then mask off certain areas for painting. In most of these cases the chrome is not even roughed up yet the paint sticks pretty well regardless.

              It's all in the prep. I forgot about those old bikes. Then there're the Chrome, painted BSA tanks of old too.

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                #8
                What blast media did you use? I have a couple bags of sand. I wanted to paint my wheels also. They have some rust on them and besides black is beautiful. Do you know what pressure you used?
                Originally posted by nvr2old View Post
                I agree that sand blasting works really well. You want to get every tiny bit of shiney, gone. I also tried the chrome platers chemical dip, and unfortunately it didn't work at all. The surface was still too smooth for the primer and paint to adhere to. I've blasted and painted lots of chrome fenders and wheels with very good results.

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                  #9
                  Might I suggest?

                  If you are lucky enough to have reasonable quality chrome on the outer shoulders of the wheel leave it shiny. Simply mask with electrical tape topped with duct tape. Several layers of duct tape should be used just because sand eats tape real fast. Painting the whole rim looks good till you change a tire and scratch the paint. If you use an epoxy primer base followed by regular primer your chances of keeping the paint in place are better.

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                    #10
                    I was planning on using one of the POR-15 products for paint. Actually a clear coat.

                    Explore POR-15's extensive range of restoration products, perfect for bringing new life to any vehicle with superior performance and quality. Order online now!


                    I have used this stuff before on old cars and quads. It doesnt chip wear or allow rust and it will stick to anything.

                    The reason I was looking to blast off the chrome is I was considering blasting the rims and spokes for that rough blasted look and then just clear coating them.

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                      #11
                      If you have access to a sand blaster, you can also shoot baking soda. Its not as abrasive as Soda media but you can pick up pound boxes at dollar store for nothing. Leaves a nice satin finish that paint will adhere to. If you use a self etching primer first, youll get a longer lasting paint finish.

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                        #12
                        krsmetalhed1988, sorry about not replying earlier, I used a medium grit sand and a compressor that can pump between 80 and 100psi pretty consistently. Chrome plating is a really hard surface. You need good pressure and some pretty serious grit to get the "tooth" you need. You want it to be able to hold on to the primer, which will fill it in nicely after 3-4 coats. Sand it with 400 grit after it dries, then paint it. I've done complete wheels, spokes and nipples, everything. If it's polyurethane paint, all the better. It's like sealing it all up. I've even mounted the tire on the rim first, mask it off, and paint it while deflated. Then pump it up. No tire iron marks..until you change it next time. But, black paint is really easy to touch up. Solid black wheels look great.
                        1979 GS1000S,

                        1982 Honda CX500 Turbo, 1982 Honda MB5 w/CR80 motor, 1977 Honda "nekid" Goldwing, 1976 Honda CB550F cafe', 1972 Honda XL250 cafe'

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                          #13
                          If I remember right, I did some research about 15 years ago on this subject. Take your parts to a plating service, I think what they do is plating in reverse. Instead of adding crome they reverse the plating process and remove the crome, leaving bare metal for you to polish, blast or whatever. I have no idea as to cost, but may be an option for you.

                          Good Luck,

                          Andy
                          1986 GS1150ES "JUNO QUICK”
                          1984 GS1100GK
                          1982 GS1100E “RANGER”
                          1978 GS750E-"JUNO RIOT" on the road in 2013
                          1980 GS550GL complete, original, 4900 miles

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                            #14
                            Great topic. You can get it all unplated easily, and be guaranteed a good surface to primer, but it'll cost you.

                            If there aren't chips you can wet sand the chrome with 600 and get the parts powder coated, it's MUCH harder than paint, will last through tire changes as well and it will last a real long time.

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