Anyone sandblast their own motor themselves?

[first timer]

Walnut shells work great, but as I said before, I wouldnt attempt to blast a motor thats still assembled. The average owner will not take the time and means involved to do the job correctly. If youre dead set on leaving the engine in place and assembled, my first post is the one I stand behing still. A good cleaner like Purple power to soak and Scotch style pads until you got the effect you want. Then to keep all nice and shiney, I good brand of HiHeat clear paint.

so if i have the engine removed, already apart (not split, head and jugs off) I think i am going take it reassembly, sans gaskets, i'll use some grease on the gasket surfaces. bolt it back together carefull mask off all the important areas have at it with walnut shells. Then take it back apart clean it out and inspect it. For the sensative areas i might use soda.

sound good?

[Nessism]

so if i have the engine removed, already apart (not split, head and jugs off) I think i am going take it reassembly, sans gaskets, i'll use some grease on the gasket surfaces. bolt it back together carefull mask off all the important areas have at it with walnut shells. Then take it back apart clean it out and inspect it. For the sensative areas i might use soda.

sound good?

Based on responses in this thread some people blast with the engine together but I still can't recommend it. What if there is a gap between the head and cylinder and media gets though and into your roller bearing crank? Not worth the risk in my opinion. If the engine is fully assembled and doesn't leak, then maybe...maybe it would be okay to do some low pressure blasting with a soft media.

One other thing to consider is the plating on the crankcase screws; blasting can remove the plating which will lead to rust. No problem if the entire engine is going to be painted afterwords, but not best for a restoration.

[first timer]

Based on responses in this thread some people blast with the engine together but I still can't recommend it. What if there is a gap between the head and cylinder and media gets though and into your roller bearing crank? Not worth the risk in my opinion. If the engine is fully assembled and doesn't leak, then maybe...maybe it would be okay to do some low pressure blasting with a soft media.

One other thing to consider is the plating on the crankcase screws; blasting can remove the plating which will lead to rust. No problem if the entire engine is going to be painted afterwords, but not best for a restoration.

if there are gaps in the head and cylinder then i have bigger problems then media, I will be visually inspecting for gaps to, plus walnut shells are pretty big and any gaps shouldn't be that big or like i said i have other issues. After I was done i was also going pull the oil pan and wash down the crank in kerosene to knock loose any stragglers if any. (i could also coat the crank in some grease too to help trap any stragglers if any so i know how meticulous i have to be in cleaning. Keep in mind walnut shells are wood which is a softer media then bearings and a crank they should just get chewed up.


any plating on the crank bolts is probalby gone anyway from rust, again walnut shells aren't that harsh, they basically just knock off the
corrosion.

I am planing to have this painted too.

[Colorado85gs550]

I agree with you about gaps ANYWHERE in the motor......if the media can get in so can moisture..........as well as stuff leaking out! If your motor is that bad then you can just blast away since you're obviously going to need to take it apart to rebuild it anyway!

[Hammered]

If you have the means to Soda Blast, then no need for the walnut shells. And the bonus with soda is its easy to clean the cases up after with a quick wash down and blow dry. Soda wont scar the inner passages like sand if left behind. Ive seen, but never tried, soda blasting with a pressure washer. It adds soda in the same manner it would cleaners.

[hampshirehog]

Yep, soda blasting works fine but it's slower than all the other products and uses a heck of a lot of air. Tip - wear a hat as the stuff gets everywhere and, if you're like me, it makes your head itch like crazy.

[first timer]

If you have the means to Soda Blast, then no need for the walnut shells. And the bonus with soda is its easy to clean the cases up after with a quick wash down and blow dry. Soda wont scar the inner passages like sand if left behind. Ive seen, but never tried, soda blasting with a pressure washer. It adds soda in the same manner it would cleaners.

i have 20lbs of walnut and 40lb of soda, I'll try both see what finish i like better. I was thinking i might need the walnut for some areas that need a more agressive approach.

[posplayr]

Ryan,
FYI

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=123490&highlight=harbor+freight

Jim

[oshanac]

It's good to hear about the baking soda. Can you just buy the grocery store variety or is it some special kind? I think after I take the motor out, I'll do the soda instead of sand. Even thought the motor will still have to be taped off (any kind of special hi durability tape needed for blasting?) I'd rather not risk the sand damage.

We ALL know the GS motor is bullit proof-but why risk damaging it. It's good to hear sand worked for some, but notice NO ONE here said soda blasting ever caused any kind of damage.

Thanks guys!

[oshanac]

Great link Posplayr! Thanks for that info. It sound like for the guys that want a color, PC-though expensive, is the most heartbreak free way to go. Durability wise too.

[Bribird]

For masking off to protect areas you dont want blasted, duct tape actually works really well. The area you are taping needs to be completly free from oil and dirt before laying the tape. The main areas on an assembled motor that need to be closed up very very well are the intake and exhaust ports. I blasted my motor with it completly disassembled and spent hours and hours preparring it for blasting. I also shoved a wet paper towel into each port on the head before I taped it off as a secondary line of defense.

just be very aware of anywhere that the media might find a way into the motor... If there is even a tiny gap in your taping off, it will find its way in.

Good luck guys.

[oshanac]

Does the Soda remove paint too? That's the main culprit in my case. Though after the Aircraft Remover on the clutch cover, the metal need a good polish.

[Bribird]

Yes, it removes paint pretty well.

Be careful with the aircraft stripper. That stuffs active ingrediant is methyl chloride. That stuff is really nasty and very potent. I use it to clean my spray guns like once a year or so. It will pretty much destroy a pair of chemical gloves in like 20 minutes. Do not get it on your skin...that stuff can be absorbed thru the skin and is known to cause health problems.

[oshanac]

Thanks Bribird; I had chemical gloves on but was applying it in shorts and flip flops (dumb) and got a few specks on my legs and feet. It feel like a THOUSAND fire ants, I was running to the tub to rinse it off, the few seconds it was on it me-the worse it got. I'll never apply it again without thick jeans and sneakers. After hearing about the health hazards, heck I may just not use it again period. I have this abrasive wheel for my drill that did a good job of stripping some of the easier to get to spots.

I almost have my cylinder head off. I'm going to strip her down and tape her off and do it right. Frame and everything. Soda seems like the way to go for me.

Can I use grocery store soda or is it a special type? thanks

[Colorado85gs550]

yes..you can use Arm & Hammer straight from the box! Generic store brands work better because of the cost