GS1000S paint work started

[posplayr]

oshanac

I did two tanks and it probably only took 2-3 pads.

Pads are cheapest mail order

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=200312634554&ssPageName=MERC_VI_RSCC_Pr4_PcY_BIN_Stores_IT&refitem=350037744947&itemcount=4&refwidgetloc=active_view_item&usedrule1=StoreCatToStoreCat&refwidgettype=cross_promot_widget&_trksid=p284.m184&_trkparms=algo%3DDR%26its%3DS%252BI%252BSS%26itu%3DISS%252BUCI%252BSI%26otn%3D4

The orbital with 60 grit makes short work of even the OEM paint and decals. I'm sure it was not over 1 hour for 1 tank to get down to bare metal and that includes Tecate breaks.

I did not strip the bottom but sanded it well.

[Colorado85gs550]

what did you use the prep the plastic?

I'm getting ready to do all of my fairings, and the factory decals are looking like a PITA!! I was thinking a heat gun to try and remove the decals but what should I use to prep the rest before I paint?

Thanks pos.......

[posplayr]

Orbital Sanding tips

I hit the side covers and tail with the orbital sander. No need to get down to "bare plastic".

I go bare metal on the tank to get rid of the possibility of any latent rust.

The Bosch orbital is a great variable speed sander

• If you are worried about being too aggressive used a finer pad (120)
• Safer to to start on with plastic with some 120 grit.
• Concentrate on flatter areas and do corners by hand.
• Don't grind across a straight edge; it is a pita to bondo the edges and get get back to OEM sharp.
• 60 grit orbital is like doing 100-120 by hand in terms of roughness and depth of cut
• With metal it doesn't really matter too much 60 grit is fine.

Good Luck

Sorry to Hi jack the thread.

Pos

[srsupertrap]

On the tank I'd use some self-etching to get a good surface, then go with a build primer. Next week I need to spray if the bike is going to be ready for the wedding.

+1: Yup, for the bare gas tank you need to shoot epoxy primer first then followed by high build primer. If you use high build primer first the base will never be solid and in time it will move and your beautiful paint job won't last. In your case with all the substrates visible you should use a primer sealer before base.

PPG Omni 170 series is a excellent epoxy primer which when reduced properly can be used as a primer sealer. If your first base coat is white (S right) I believe you would choose Omni 171 white.

I have been hanging around here searching and asking questions . .

http://www.autobodystore.com/forum/index.php

[srsupertrap]

what did you use the prep the plastic?

I'm getting ready to do all of my fairings, and the factory decals are looking like a PITA!! I was thinking a heat gun to try and remove the decals but what should I use to prep the rest before I paint?

Thanks pos.......

If we are discussing your GS550EF avatar plastic which is presently red, blue etc I would say take the orbital sander and get it down to one color of plastic. If you don't you are almost certain that you will need all three different primers to sufficiently make the plastic surface smooth & uniform in color for the base coat.

Regardless your first coat will be epoxy primer.

[Colorado85gs550]

Thanks srsupertrap,

Definately going to get it down to a "managable" state before we shoot paint....

[nvr2old]

+1: Yup, for the bare gas tank you need to shoot epoxy primer first then followed by high build primer. If you use high build primer first the base will never be solid and in time it will move and your beautiful paint job won't last. In your case with all the substrates visible you should use a primer sealer before base.

PPG Omni 170 series is a excellent epoxy primer which when reduced properly can be used as a primer sealer. If your first base coat is white (S right) I believe you would choose Omni 171 white.

I have been hanging around here searching and asking questions . .

http://www.autobodystore.com/forum/index.php

I agree with everything you've said. That's exactly the procedure I use. The epoxy primer and the sealers are very important steps. I'm always asking questions at the Auto Body Paint Store. Materials change so often, and what was compatible even six months ago, could be totally different. Following instructions to the letter on the cans, and with words of wisdom form the people that mix it, I've been able to get some really nice, long lasting, and durable finishes.

[srsupertrap]

Hi nvr2old,

What steps are you using to apply the 1000S white & blue paint scheme? I have read and heard several opinions from some very knowledable GSer's out there. It would be interesting to get your opinion as well . . .

Once you have shot the white basecoat are you planning to follow with a clear coat, scuff / wet sand with 500-600, tape off the gas tank, fairing & ABS parts followed by another coat clear. Wet sand to 1500, buff and polish
OR
once you have shot the white basecoat are you going to just tape off the gas tank, fairing & ABS parts. Lightly sand the tape lines and seal the entire deal with coat clear. Wet sand to 1500, buff and etc.

or something else?

[srsupertrap]

EDIT

Once you have shot the white basecoat are you planning to follow with a clear coat, scuff / wet sand with 500-600, tape off the gas tank, fairing & ABS parts. Paint the blue portions followed by another coat clear. Wet sand to 1500, buff and polish
OR
once you have shot the white basecoat are you going to just tape off the gas tank, fairing & ABS parts. Paint the blue portions Lightly sand the tape lines and seal the entire deal with coat clear. Wet sand to 1500, buff and etc.

[nvr2old]

Thanks for the interest in my project. Once all the primer is blocked and ready for the basecoat, first, I'll just lightly shoot some black in the areas where the 1/4" stripes will be, just enough to cover. Once the black has dried, I'll use Fine Line 1/4" tape to actually lay out the stripe design (same for the side covers and fairing). I'll then spray everything with the white. Once that has dried, I'll come back and mask off the 1/4" white stripes, then spray the blue. Once all three colors are sprayed, I'll apply the Suzuki tank and side cover graphics followed by the clear coats. 3-4 good wet coats, let it dry, block the clear with 600, then spray another 3-4 coats. That should be enough to totally bury the graphics so there are no edges to be felt. I'll be able to post some updated pics before the week is over. I'll show the stages so it'll be easier to understand my process. The way I do it eliminates having to mask off and paint each stripe individually. All the stripes widths come out perfect this way. Threw in a picture of the body parts again to see the location of the stripes until then. The tail section is almost pristine. I'll just "dust" it with white and then clear coat the whole thing to make sure it matches all the other pieces.

[Bad Kaw]

Great stuff! Keep posting!
-KR

[nvr2old]

Here it is with all the body work done and down to a 100 grit finish. Ready to be sealed and primed





I sanded down the factory "seam" along the top of the fender, too. It'll look way better all smoothed out.

[nvr2old]

Thought maybe you'd like to see how the Honda CB1100F front fender came out. Had to extend the mounts to fit the GS forks. Fiberglassed both sides of the mounts on both sides of the fender. Very strong and yet still flexible.



Mid-shaping point



The inside has to be finished the same way to clear the tire and to sit smoothly against the forks. Plus it just looks nice

[Bad Kaw]

Nice work. You're one of those guys who can do fiberglass...wish I had that skill!
-KR

[nvr2old]

Fiberglass is a very forgiving medium. It's itchy to work with, but you can do a lot with it. I could've, more easily, extended the fender mounts with an aluminum plate on each side, pop riveted in place, but I want it to look like it hasn't been modified. This fender looks so right on this bike, not many people will even know it's not the original (which is restored and stashed away).