1985 Suzuki GS700EF

[tejasmud]

What was the part number for these?

Thanks.

The rearsets Part #19-0064 . This would be for the 83' GSX750.

Here is the link to the folding knureld sets.

http://www.fastfromthepast.com/servlet/the-432/Rearsets-Folding-Knurled-Footpegs/Detail

Tarozzi make the sets in rubber folding/non-folding and knurled folding/non-folding.

[tejasmud]

Polish.... Get yourself a die grinder and some scotchbrite (or simular) deburring wheels they cut your time down by 75% compared with the dremmel and SS/wheels .. I know you still have to use the dremmel in various areas but it will help. Been there sanded,sanded,steel wooled,etc....done that. Again great post keep up the motorcycle porn.

I think polishing them too would be best.

Now, I can't afford them fancy tools, all my money is spent on parts.

Y'all would think I'm fibbing, but my tool boxes are a couple of old battery boxes, one metric one Standard, and also just where ever tools may roam. Garage floor for the most part, along with nuts, bolts, and parts.

That's why all my pics are in the parking lot.

[tejasmud]

Update Time with lots of pictures.

First, here is the list on the parts purchased on the FRONT cooling lines. The parts were purchased through ANPlumbing.com. Link is below.

http://www.anplumbing.com/shop/

Parts List

Qty 4 Banjos Part# 977606 -6 AN to 9/16” Banjo
Qty 2 Hose Ends Part# 804606 Swivel-Seal 45° Tube -6 AN to -6 Hose End
Qty 2 Hose Ends Part# 806106 Swivel-Seal 60° Tube -6 AN to -6 Hose End
Qty 3ft Hose Part# 400060 Perform-O-Flex -6
Qty 1 (3 per pkg) Clamps Part# 170209 9/16” Polished Line Clamps


Now, this from my limited experience with assembling the hoses as the fittings and hose are not cheap. FOLLOW THE DIRECTIONS! Be a perfectionist on preparing the end of the hose is best, use oil, mark the hose, ect. Trying to pull the hose back off after tightening the swivel seal fittings sometimes like to grab the hose, and there will be a small piece inside the fitting. It can be removed, but just be delicate on working it out with an exact-o- knife. Initially I had cut the hose to the precise length, after purchasing 4ft of hose, this issue allowed me to purchase another 3ft to correct the issue, and move up the learning curve a little.

Picture of the hose end with hose inside the barb.




How did I learn this?

Well, originally I went with 90° Tube Swivel-Seal fittings, on the top portion of the hose, but once installed the fitting end hit the boss on the frame for the horn. This could be the 700ES fairing mount, not exactly sure. So to remedy this I went with 60° Swivel-Seal tube fittings at the top, and added 0.35” spacers behind the oil cooler bracket to pull it out so the hose would not rub against the head.

This is a picture of two different sizes of spacers, 0.35” and 0.4” made from UV rated Delrin.



Here is a picture of the spacers behind the oil cooler bracket, and the thickness may vary from frame to frame. This was just my solution in this particular case to make sure nothing rubs. SST hose is very abrasive.



Here is a picture of my solution on the replacing the OEM clamps.



They use the same mounting holes as the OEM clamps, just more suited for the Perform-O-Flex Hose. Cleaner look to my eye. Here is a picture of the inside where the clamp attaches to the frame.




At the top and base the original banjo bolts were used, but I did purchase the crush washers. Here is a picture of the base of the engine where the cooling lines connect.

Need to scrub a little here still, and repaint the filter cap, but……

[tejasmud]

And there is more.

Taking some time off to polish had it’s “Up’s and Down’s”, so while in the process of inching along in that project I decided to “Flog the Harness.”

First thing was to acquire many connectors from;

Vintage Connections (Decent Shipping times)
http://www.vintageconnections.com/

Oregon Motorcycle Parts (Decent Shipping times)
http://www.oregonmotorcycleparts.com/

Eastern Beaver (Decent Shipping times, coming from Japan)
http://www.easternbeaver.com/

Second purchase was 5/8” ID, ¼” ID, and 1/8” ID (before shrink) PVC tubing from McMaster Carr, and 14 AWG Red, Black, and Yellow from the local auto supply. Yellow was not used, being I will wire the stator leads directly to the R/R.

Picture of the connectors, I chose to go with all locking style.



A picture of the bigger picture of the nook table.



On the instrument panel the plug is proprietary, I think, or at least I didn’t want to search for one. The pins were in great shape, so this is where I started.

Removed all the black tape, made a note of where each color coded wire/pin was located in the connector, removed the pins with a large needle, cleaned the connector, and the wires with alcohol.

A picture of process.



Next the wires were fed into a length of 5/8” shrink tubing, heated with the heat gun, protector placed back on, dielectric grease added to each pin as reinserted into the connector.

Here is a picture just after the shrink job.



Here is a picture of the headlight bucket connectors end of the harness.



Picture of the right side harness end, brake light switch, tail light, flasher relay, harness ground, and the remaining two bullets are either the fuel level or kick stand switch. Don’t remember.



Then here is an over all view of the completed harness.

[tejasmud]

Next up is the Stator replacement, and other things.

As suspected, the stator appeared to be in less than desirable shape, and while the cover was off might as well replace it.

Picture of Old Stator.



A New stator was purchased from Rick’s, and inserted into the cove after the cover was polished. Picture of the Part # and stator installed.



Upon removal of them dern, stinking, lousy, strip prone, four letter word, Phillips head screws that hold the stator in I went down to ACE Hardware and acquired a really nice set of 3 chrome plated allen head cap screws, and added Loc-tite.



Picture of the nice shinny chrome cap screws for the wire retaining clips as well.



Now since I was in the vicinity of the starter, and rerouting the stator wires it was only natural that the $1 to $2 o-ring be replaced as well.




So, while I had the clutch cover off to polish, yep, need a new oil level sight glass, which pops out easily with a couple of sockets and a hydraulic jack, or an arbor press.



And, might as well change the clutch springs. Left is the OEM, right is the EBC.



Also, I mean while we are in there right, how could I forget the fiber plates either. We will try the EBC on these as well.



The 4 side covers were polished. Well sort of like 4, one had a small one, we’ll call it 4 and ½.



And alas the Valve Cover.

[tejasmud]

This leads us sort of back where we left off back in August.

Rear sets.

The Tarozzi rear sets, as I made the custom brackets, mounted them, and didn’t really like the look. I decided to polish out the OEM brackets and rear passenger pegs, which look much better.

Here is the right side, minus the rear passenger peg.



Here is a picture of the left side.



Here are a few pictures of the covers on the right side of engine.











Now, with the Napoleon bar end mirrors. Not sure I like the look. It may be different in time, they just look too wide.



And last picture of the day. Decided to switch up on the front master cylinder. It still needs some work on location of the reservoir, just a different bracket to move it down and right a tad. The master is off an 06-07 GSXR1000, ¾ inch piston, and should be much better than the last 14mm one.





More to come, I just hope not 3 to 4 months later.

Sigh............

Now, time to put these carbs back together.

[67fire]

You'll have to wear shades just to look at it!

Eric

[jwhelan65]

Woah, Looks FANTASTIC Eric! That valve cover looks incredible, what paint did you use on the Suzuki side covers? that polished swinger looks fabulous

Well done sir...

[jwhelan65]

Did you end up making the oil cooler lines yourself with parts from AN? I want some...

carbs?

[tejasmud]

You'll have to wear shades just to look at it!

Eric

And that's with fingerprints all over it.

[tejasmud]

Woah, Looks FANTASTIC Eric! That valve cover looks incredible, what paint did you use on the Suzuki side covers? that polished swinger looks fabulous

Well done sir...

Joe,

Yes, all the parts for the front lines came from ANPlumbing. The rear lines on the 700E all except the 8mm banjos, had to make them. Initially I wanted to find something others could just purchase on the 8mm banjos, I searched for a few days pretty hard initially, (still do every once in a while when looking at fittings) but a past life trade won over, so decided to just make them.

That "valve cover" is worth about $1500,

To me. hahahahahahaha!

No really, all done by hand except for the last buff. Not as bad as the swinger, but close. On this style V.Cover there are the ribs that go between the spark plugs and they have the unfinished casting vents/gate shear areas. These have all been blended. i did this on the OEM pegs as well, heavy sanding to get the imperfections out, but looks smooth.

The paint in the inlays was done with rattle can Dupli high temp ceramic engine paint, satin, as well as the TSCC inlays on the top of the cover. All baked at 300° for 4 hours. The inlay surfaces were bead blasted, cleaned with MEK, masked, then painted.

Carbs. I have a set of VM33 smoothbores, looking for a good set of 29s though. I also have a few sets of slingshot CVs, then the OEM BS32s as well. I have read Billy Rick's has been running RS34s on his 700E, but not sure the mods he has to date. If the 33s are tuned right they should work, loose some torque from what I gather though. I won't be using the normal air jets or needle jet needles, have a slew of mains and pilots as well. We shall see. LM1 and LM3 AUXBOX (wideband O2/sensor equipment) should help a bit. All will be documented and logged, so fun will be ahead.

Eric

[Nessism]

Killer job here Eric. I bow down to your skills.

[tejasmud]

Killer job here Eric. I bow down to your skills.

Ed,

Thanks.

You do much finer work though. You do have way more dicipline, and experience.

This is sort of what I was warning 'GS300Lowner' about on "beautiful shine" though... what did we call it?

"method for a Show Bike." lol

It has been addicting, and I have rubbed, and can't rub no more. One hour a day for 3 months, blisters, and all that.

Yes, this is what that method will produce. Not perfect to my eye, still, but tell myself, "it is a 25yr old bike."

I like the brush finish too, I just could not seem to get it down, or in the right direction it seemed.

Ah well, maybe next bike, I'll gain the craft possibly one day. I really do like the pristene look of the pure OEMs. Something about "out of the crate" look, and that sir takes dicipline. Something needs go give though, maybe plating to save $, a good bike to start with. By the way, the 1000S is Freaking Awesome, been waiting to see that one.

Eric

[Nessism]

Ed,

Thanks.

You do much finer work though. You do have way more dicipline, and experience.

This is sort of what I was warning 'GS300Lowner' about on "beautiful shine" though... what did we call it?

"method for a Show Bike." lol

It has been addicting, and I have rubbed, and can't rub no more. One hour a day for 3 months, blisters, and all that.

Yes, this is what that method will produce. Not perfect to my eye, still, but tell myself, "it is a 25yr old bike."

I like the brush finish too, I just could not seem to get it down, or in the right direction it seemed.

Ah well, maybe next bike, I'll gain the craft possibly one day. I really do like the pristene look of the pure OEMs. Something about "out of the crate" look, and that sir takes dicipline. Something needs go give though, maybe plating to save $, a good bike to start with. By the way, the 1000S is Freaking Awesome, been waiting to see that one.

Eric

Hey Eric,
I HATE polishing engine cases. This was a "learned" hate after hand sanding the covers on a number of engines. Bought a sisal wheel and heavy cutting compound a while back for my grinder and was able to do the job in 1/10 the time now with way less effort. Tools are good.

[tejasmud]

Hey Eric,
I HATE polishing engine cases. This was a "learned" hate after hand sanding the covers on a number of engines. Bought a sisal wheel and heavy cutting compound a while back for my grinder and was able to do the job in 1/10 the time now with way less effort. Tools are good.

I have learned my lesson, I do believe.

On the finish after 2k grit, I hit the parts on a spiral cotton wheel with jewelers rouge, then hit them with an almost loose cotton wheel, but not a true loose wheel with white polish.

I'll have to try a sisal wheel. I have read you mention this before. So, the cases on 1000S are a result, shoot, I'm sold.