Paint and Polish Prep - What am I doing wrong?

[sachsaca]

Diamond lapping paste is what you need in some cases for the really hard stuff. I worked at a place and we had tool and die makers and this is the type of stuff they used on steel. Good luck

http://www.directindustry.com/prod/norton-abrasives/diamond-lapping-paste-5612-388542.html

[pete]

Thanks for the tip sachsaca.

Unfortunately it looks like we may have some large medical expenses on the way in the near future, so I may just have to pause the project again for a while or attempt to keep going just by hand for the moment.

[sonnygs1100]

do you have a grinder ?

[pete]

Yup, that I do. Have a drill, bench grinder, and grinder.

I also just found a local place here that seems quite reasonably priced. Seems the expensive bit will be the tapered bits for the bench grinder, everything else seems quite inexpensive.

https://www.bolt.com.au/index.php?cPath=842_989

[Mike Derrett]

Mr Pete,
Before you dive into Bunnings depth's, check out these guys as a guide.

http://www.mcjing.com.au/searchresult.aspx?keyword=polish

They sell the ultimate in cheap chinese but the stuff isn't to bad.

Bunnings is not always as cheep as they make out.

Keep us informed (with pictures!)

[pete]

Thanks Mike, I tend to avoid Bunnings whereever possible, can't stand the place.

Those look to be a similar price (maybe even a couple of cents dearer) than the one I just located here in Brissie www.bolt.com.au.

Unfortunately they're only open Monday to Friday, and I need to see what tapered bit size I need for my bench grinder also.

[sonnygs1100]

Yup, that I do. Have a drill, bench grinder, and grinder.

I also just found a local place here that seems quite reasonably priced. Seems the expensive bit will be the tapered bits for the bench grinder, everything else seems quite inexpensive.

https://www.bolt.com.au/index.php?cPath=842_989

what tapered bit most us bench grinders have staight shafts you just pull of grinding wheel and put on pad

[pete]

That's interesting. I haven't had a chance to talk to anyone yet, but from what I've seen I'm assuming you need to put a tapered bit onto the straight shaft to use the sisel wheels and polishing mops etc.

If I'm wrong that's good, as it's just an assumption based on what I've seen so far.

[Nessism]

Unless you are looking for a mirror polish finish, 600 is are fine as you need to go. I recommend sanding out all the pitting, working up to 600 before transfering over to the buffer. The coarse cutting compound and a sturdy stiched wheel is the key from my experience.

For paper, 3M stuff is the best over here in the US. Norton is decent as well.

Oh, and forget about polishing that steel starter cover. Paint that thing or look for a new chrome one. Steel is not for polishing.

Good luck

[sonnygs1100]

Unless you are looking for a mirror polish finish, 600 is are fine as you need to go. I recommend sanding out all the pitting, working up to 600 before transfering over to the buffer. The coarse cutting compound and a sturdy stiched wheel is the key from my experience.

For paper, 3M stuff is the best over here in the US. Norton is decent as well.

Oh, and forget about polishing that steel starter cover. Paint that thing or look for a new chrome one. Steel is not for polishing.

Good luck

i have heard it all now , my job is about 50% polishing metals , i hardly ever use sand paper , i start with 120 grit buffing wheel , then go to 200 or 220 , then 300 , then 500 grit wheel then stycel with 550 or 600 grit cake compound . if i cant get to it with a wheel i use polishing stones and mystery oil or trany fluid