Paint update on my S

[nvr2old]

Click save....that thing is absolutley perfect!

Thanks, Joe. I think I'm finally done with this baby. Spring can't get here soon enough.

[oshanac]

I've said it before, but NVR2OLD_, that thing is BREATHTAKING!!! You are a freaking CRAFTSMAN!!!

Did you use a speacial type of paint for the motor or regular auto stuff? I just split my cases and will sandblast and paint them soon. I'm prety new at auto paint products (been doing guncoatings, rattle cans, and minor airbrushing) and heard somewhere that too many coats or the wrong kind of paint can make the motor run hot. Any advice on what you used? Did you use an acid etching primer, then paint? Use any sealer for motor painting? Thanks

[nvr2old]

Thanks for the compliment oshanac. This bike means a lot to me. I personally shy away from sandblasting engine parts unless it's a points, clutch, stator, or counter shaft cover. Something that can be separated from the block. The thought of sand getting inside anything, even a grain or two freaks me out, but that's just me. I just spend the time sanding (even between the fins) and then thoroughly cleaning. Carb/brake cleaner works great because it drys quickly and leaves zero residue. I did use an etching primer, very lightly, then Duplicolor spray can engine enamels and VHT brand engine enamels. The VHT brand seems to be a little more solvent and gas resistant, but isn't totally chip resistant. There's always gonna be touch ups involved with a painted engine, especially black. You see it way more with black then with silver..but the look is enough to make me put up with it. I've painted tons of engines of all sizes, air-cooled and water-cooled and never had any problems with heating issues. I'm of the belief that black helps dissipate heat.

[Nessism]

Suzuki painted the engines silver so I don't see why people should worry about painting their engines come restore time.

Sorry a little off topic here but for my 1000S restore I sandblased the engine parts prior to painting. Sadly, the POR-15 Engine Enamel I used is taking a yellow hue to it (painted silver). I love the P0R-15 paints for their toughness and chemical resistance, but apparently the paint can't take the heat very well. I'll use VHT next time.

[posplayr]

Suzuki painted the engines silver so I don't see why people should worry about painting their engines come restore time.

Sorry a little off topic here but for my 1000S restore I sandblased the engine parts prior to painting. Sadly, the POR-15 Engine Enamel I used is taking a yellow hue to it (painted silver). I love the P0R-15 paints for their toughness and chemical resistance, but apparently the paint can't take the heat very well. I'll use VHT next time.

Ed,
Sorry to hear about the silver engine enable. I used it under clear coat on my frame but never on the engine. All of thier products are not created equally.
However I have some of this on the GS750 valve cover and I also brushed some on the block and it seems to hold up well. It is soft velvety look but seems to hold up. I plan to repaint the GS750 engine soon and will try and see how well what I have scratches (havent tried).
Jim

http://www.por15.com/POR-20-ALUMINUM/productinfo/P2G/

[oshanac]

Thanks for the tip NVR2OLD. But I literally split my cases and fully disassembled my motor to do a top notch paint job. I have JUST the top and bottom cases that I need to paint by themselves. I'll be taping the machined/bearing surface sides completely with duct tape and electrical tape (E-tape along the sides where I need a fine edge), then wash, paint and wash once the paint has cured. Is sandblasting still to dangerous on cases? Will it gouge the surface or get too hot and warp something?

[oshanac]

NVR2OLD, it was rattle can was it? Do they sell that paint in quarts so you can use a gun?

[Nunzio]

Obviously I'm ignorant of the process , but was wondering how the stencile was cut? Do you cut out all the letters with the exacto knife of is there a machine?

Sorry for the late response. I have a machine that cuts the vinyl mask, and as nvr2old explained, you just pull out what you want painted. A little thought before you pull mask makes it pretty easy.

Here's a few shots of the tank back on the bike. Nice day, but cold..25 degrees..brrr.

That looks fantastic!

[1100E]

Wow! That's got to be the nicest 1000S I've seen so far, fantastic job bringing her back to better than new condition!! I agree with everyone else, you are indeed a craftsman of the highest order. Well done, sir!!

[midnightcafe]

nvr2old,

did you make an s model clone? I remember your thread where you grafted the honda cb front fender a while back. again, excellent job. better than factory for sure!

[nvr2old]

Thanks again for all the kind words. Yes, this is a true S model. I just added the Honda front fender and the CB1100F rear shocks. The original front fender, seat, exhaust, and shocks have been stashed away with all the other stock parts including the bars and turn signals. I wanted to make sure that when I did this project, that it could be returned to totally stock someday if I ever wanted to.

[nvr2old]

NVR2OLD, it was rattle can was it? Do they sell that paint in quarts so you can use a gun?

I used spray cans to paint the engine, the forks and the wheels. Not sure you can get it in quarts. I used the spray cans for the engine because it was heat resistant. The other parts could easily be done with urethane or acrylic enamel, sure.

[oshanac]

"I used spray cans to paint the engine, the forks and the wheels. Not sure you can get it in quarts. I used the spray cans for the engine because it was heat resistant. The other parts could easily be done with urethane or acrylic enamel, sure. "

-Thank you for your responce and time. I haven't heard of the engine paint being sold in anything other than rattle cans. Thansk!

[renobruce]

Your bike is awesome!
Question: How were you able to run the oil lines and also keep your temp gauge?

[nvr2old]

Your bike is awesome!
Question: How were you able to run the oil lines and also keep your temp gauge?

Unfortunately, the gauge went inactive to have the oil cooler. The Lockhart adapter for the lines (where the stock mounting position behind the cylinders is) doesn't have the sensor for the gauge. I can live with it, though.