Brion
Announcement
Collapse
No announcement yet.
Rusty Butt...
Collapse
X
-
Rusty Butt...
Well, I have searched regarding rusty seat pans and have found either electrolysis or fiberglass fabricating. I really like this seat I got from QuickV4 but I want to make sure it doesn't disintegrate under my arse. I don't know that I'm equipped for electrolysis and don't really want to take the cover off and glass it. Any suggestions? Including to get off my lazy butt...
Brion
Tags: None
-
almarconi
It doesn't look too terrible.
Option 1 is to find a replacement seat in better condition.
Option 2 is do nothing and leave it the way it is.
Option 3 is repair it.
If you have a battery charger, a plastic tub, a couple scraps of rebar, water and some washing soda, then you can set up an electrolysis bath. Its not hard and best of all you don't have to wire brush or sand anything. The few holes that you have can be patched with some scraps of sheet metal. Once all the rust is gone paint the pan with some rust preventative paint. Replace and/or reuse the cover and the foam.
-
mmmansur
Try some POR-15. I painted the rear section of the frame of my Explorer, and it has held up for three New England winters. You should coat both sides of the seat pan. I painted a scrap piece of sheet metal as a test. When it dried, I was able to bend and flex the metal without having the paint flake off.
Comment
-
ikantbreave
I was thinking maybe knock off the big flakes of rust, use the Evapo-Rust (brush it on), and then Rustoleum. Whatcha think? I just don't wanna Evapo-Not-Have-A-Seat-Pan.
Brion
Comment
-
almarconi
I was thinking maybe knock off the big flakes of rust, use the Evapo-Rust (brush it on), and then Rustoleum.
Comment
-
SqDancerLynn1
-
I'm in the middle of this and have the bottom of the pan looking pretty good. I saw someone's pic (can't find it now) of the top of the pan and am thinking I need to remove the foam and clean up the top of the pan. Does the foam come off the pan fairly easily without too much danger of ruining it? My foam seems to be in fairly good shape. I guess you would probably need some spray adhesive to put it back on the pan. Thanks Jim M1983 GS 1100 Guided Laser
1983 GS 1100 G
2000 Suzuki Intruder 1500, "Piggy Sue"
2000 GSF 1200 Bandit (totaled in deer strike)
1986 Suzuki Cavalcade GV 1400 LX (SOLD)
I find working on my motorcycle mildly therapeutic when I'm not cursing.
Comment
-
Forum LongTimerBard Award Winner
GSResource Superstar
Past Site Supporter
Super Site Supporter- Oct 2003
- 17463
- Indianapolis
Yes, the seat cover and foam are easy to remove and replace without major damage.
And yes, you do need to remove them to complete the job. The top probably looks worse.
I love Evapo-Rust, and it works exactly as advertised, but you need to submerge the seat pan in the liquid -- brushing on Evapo-Rust won't do anything. You'll need a container of some sort large enough for the pan. Give it a couple of days in one position, then flip it to immerse the rest if parts are sticking out of the liquid.1983 GS850G, Cosmos Blue.
2005 KLR685, Aztec Pink - Turd II.3, the ReReReTurdening
2015 Yamaha FJ-09, Magma Red Power Corrupts...
Eat more venison.
Please provide details. The GSR Hive Mind is nearly omniscient, but not yet clairvoyant.
Celeriter equita, converteque saepe.
SUPPORT THIS SITE! DONATE TODAY!
Co-host of "The Riding Obsession" sport-touring motorcycling podcast at tro.bike!
Comment
-
Skateguy50
Originally posted by 1948man View PostI'm in the middle of this and have the bottom of the pan looking pretty good. I saw someone's pic (can't find it now) of the top of the pan and am thinking I need to remove the foam and clean up the top of the pan. Does the foam come off the pan fairly easily without too much danger of ruining it? My foam seems to be in fairly good shape. I guess you would probably need some spray adhesive to put it back on the pan. Thanks Jim M
The bottom, I did a coat of reg primer on the mess about 2 years back:
Now the top of that pan with the cover taken off:
so yea, treating just one side of the pan wont be enough to stop the rust.
Comment
-
Adler
My pan was (is) extremely corroded,
I brushed off all the big flakes then electrolysis (didnt work all that well because my power source was only 2amps) then I wire wheeled it and painted it with rust paint.
After the rust was mostly dealt with I went to deal with the structural elements.
Im still not done, I plan on riveting a pile more sheets to it. And the tabs for fastening the cover to it are completely gone, need to come up with a replacement plan.
Comment
-
crazypaint
ok i know i always say ways to fix thing that cost a little more but gotta put my 2 cents in lol. going back to my plio-grip 2 part epoxy lol (its good **** i swear) u could use the fiberglass repair on these. 1st sand blast whole thing. get some fiber hair or i like to use a mesh stuff like u use for filling drywall seams lay some plio-grip down where the area is no longer there. then put down some of the hair or mesh. put more plio-grip over top of that do one side at a time. use a heat gun just dont burn it stinks like hell. ok after u get each side done use a grinder to make ur edge and thats itpor 15 or whatever u want to do to the rest of it. u can also just use the plio-grip to fill other small holes just use it like bondo just my .002 tho
Comment
-
Thanks for the help. Yeah Skateguy your pic is the one I had seen. I have already removed loose rust, coated with Permatex Rust Treatment and painted with Rustoleum Black rattlecan paint. I realize now, I probably should have been more thorough on the rust. I used the stuff mentioned in this thread
Would you like to share the experiences you have had with a new accessory, part or vendor? Post your review here.
I guess now, I'll probably just used the same approach on the top of the pan. Jim M1983 GS 1100 Guided Laser
1983 GS 1100 G
2000 Suzuki Intruder 1500, "Piggy Sue"
2000 GSF 1200 Bandit (totaled in deer strike)
1986 Suzuki Cavalcade GV 1400 LX (SOLD)
I find working on my motorcycle mildly therapeutic when I'm not cursing.
Comment
-
raistian77
Got lucky on mine, pulled the seat apart today. Wire wheeled the rust (edges were a little crappy) patched the holes and painted with 4 coats rustolum and 2 coats gloss black epoxy paint.
Put the old foam and cover back on.
Question is where should I get new foam and cover?
Comment
-
see post by Bwringer. While we're on the subject, my new Saddleman's replacement cover for my 1100GL has a grommet that is too small to fit over the protruding section of the lock at the back of the GL seat pan. The grommet is just a donut of heavy-duty vinyl sewn over the regular cover fabric. The lock cylinder s about 15/16" and the hole is maybe 1/2". If I tried to enlargen the hole, I would be into the stitching that holds the donut on. I think I can reuse my metal gromet from the original cover and am considering removing the vinyl one but then I own the cover and can't return it. Any opinions. Jim M1983 GS 1100 Guided Laser
1983 GS 1100 G
2000 Suzuki Intruder 1500, "Piggy Sue"
2000 GSF 1200 Bandit (totaled in deer strike)
1986 Suzuki Cavalcade GV 1400 LX (SOLD)
I find working on my motorcycle mildly therapeutic when I'm not cursing.
Comment
-
Adler
Originally posted by 1948man View Posthttp://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...ight=seat+foam
see post by Bwringer. While we're on the subject, my new Saddleman's replacement cover for my 1100GL has a grommet that is too small to fit over the protruding section of the lock at the back of the GL seat pan. The grommet is just a donut of heavy-duty vinyl sewn over the regular cover fabric. The lock cylinder s about 15/16" and the hole is maybe 1/2". If I tried to enlargen the hole, I would be into the stitching that holds the donut on. I think I can reuse my metal gromet from the original cover and am considering removing the vinyl one but then I own the cover and can't return it. Any opinions. Jim M
Comment
Comment