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Paint still kicking my butt!

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    #16
    Well the tanks have been re base coated and they are calling for sunny weather into the 70's so I'm playing hooky this afternoon and will try my hand at clearing once again.

    I must admit I am nervous at this point but I think I have a better understanding of the 'right" way to do it now.

    I am going to super clean everything again and will make sure everything is up to temperature and the gun is tripple checked before I shoot.

    With a bit of "self made"luck I should have pics to show later.

    Keep your fingeres crossed for me.

    Thanks all for the usual great support and encouragement, I'd have chucked it in but for you guys and gals.

    Cheers,
    spyug

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      #17
      Originally posted by nvr2old View Post
      If you're going to rub the finish out, there's no need to get the clear coats so wet you're going to chance running it.
      Absolutely true. The surface texture will be removed, it does not matter if it is smooth.

      Originally posted by nvr2old View Post
      600, 800, 1000, 1500, 2000, rub and finish.
      Why the 600, 800, 1000, 1500? It only takes a few minutes using only 2000.
      Anything less than 1500 is doing damage.


      Originally posted by nvr2old View Post
      Oh, tie a clean rag around the top of your cup. If it leaks, the rag will catch it no problem.
      Better yet, don't hold the gun over the tank, if you have to for some reason stop first and get a rag to catch anything.
      http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...tatesMap-1.jpg

      Life is too short to ride an L.

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        #18
        You mentioned aligator looking finish??? how was the humidity when you did it? It can greatly effect how any paint sets up....

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          #19
          Have fun. I am shooting my clear today as well in Ottawa. Damn, it sticks to high heaven....yes, I am wearing a mask.

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            #20
            Originally posted by nvr2old View Post
            If you're going to rub the finish out, there's no need to get the clear coats so wet you're going to chance running it. Believe me, it's much easier to sand a finish that's not so wet, as runs that dig in and leave trails. Just spray it a little drier. 600, 800, 1000, 1500, 2000, rub and finish. If you're not going to rub it out, then sure, you want as smooth a finish as you can get comfortably. Oh, tie a clean rag around the top of your cup. If it leaks, the rag will catch it no problem.
            I always find it harder to clean up a poor finish with sanding, than if I would have done a nicer job with the final coat. Granted final wet sanding will get rid of alot of poor spray work, but best to lay own a reasonable finish in the first place.

            I get the feeling Sprug has too large of a tip on his gun and is hosing on the material in a cool environment with a slow catalyst. When I did my ED in the middle of summer with temps in my booth between 80-90 I had to really try to get anything to run. I had a lot of glossy finishes .

            Later when I did two bikes recently in Gloss Black and was very really careful, I still got sags well after I sprayed when shooting in cool weather (60 deg ) with the same accelerant(it was not drying fast enough).

            Without being there, I think the main thing Sprug needs to concentrate on is getting a descent finish even with a little orange peel that doesn't run. Weather it is his gun, technique or material I don't know. But if he experiments( I changed from practices), maybe he can find a combination that works.

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              #21
              Originally posted by tkent02 View Post
              Absolutely true. The surface texture will be removed, it does not matter if it is smooth.



              Why the 600, 800, 1000, 1500? It only takes a few minutes using only 2000.
              Anything less than 1500 is doing damage.




              Better yet, don't hold the gun over the tank, if you have to for some reason stop first and get a rag to catch anything.
              You want to cut through the clear as quickly and smoothly as possible, especially if it's a slightly dry finish to begin with. You can start with 800 if it's pretty smooth. 2000 doesn't really do that alone, it's not coarse enough. 600-800 flattens it out immediately, then the finer papers prepare the surface for the 2000, which basically all it's doing is polishing the surface at that point. Less will be taken off in the long run if you're careful. You might try only filling the cup half full if it has a tendency to leak..or better yet, most metal cups are only about 25 bux, cheaper yet for a plastic one. Save the anxiety and cost of drips by just replacing it.
              1979 GS1000S,

              1982 Honda CX500 Turbo, 1982 Honda MB5 w/CR80 motor, 1977 Honda "nekid" Goldwing, 1976 Honda CB550F cafe', 1972 Honda XL250 cafe'

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