Clear coat question

[posplayr]

Maybe just a bit... More frustrated than anything. It's a long story with this bike that started a year ago. I'm now in the finishing stages and was planning on doing a BC/CC myself only to find out that no paint store around here sells any small quantities (they cater to the pro shops so everything comes in a gallon!!). So I decided to go with the urethane spray cans because it was the only way I could get the colors I wanted. The guy at the store told me that I did not need to clear this paint but that I could IF I wanted to. I understand that urethane is resistant to gas so that's not my reason for wanting to clear it - i just did not want to feel the edge between the stripe and the rest of the paint. In the end I guess I can just wet sand it and polish it and ride the darn bike.

Well sorry if my post rubbed you the wrong way. I was simply trying to relate that you seemed to be in uncharted territory. Also this is painting and you need to have patience.

Case in point: I remember having finished spraying the final wet clear onto my fairing after, base and pearl (so this is this is at least cleaning the gun twice). I rubbed my paint overalls into the clear and through the pearl. No saving that. Had to get the thinner and wipe off the whole job and start over (on the fairing at least).

I was not happy but I survived it. Bottom line is if you are doing something that is too far from the norm, a respray is probably the easiest.

Rusty knows alot about paints so let him know what the store says.

[spyug]

I've never heard of anyone clearing days after the base was applied. I think it has to be done within a few minutes.

If it were me, I'd scuff with a scotch brite pad(red), re-base and then clear.
Dont sand the base then try to clear coat. Never heard of shucha thing.

Well gents, I can assure you its perfectly doable. In one case, I cleared a tank for my XS650 about 18 months after the base. I've cleared over urethane and rattle can enamel and I've done it without presanding and also with 1500 as previously suggested.

The one thing that I have found that can pooch such a project is, if after sanding, the surface is not perfectly clean of dust and or oils or any other contaminents. When painting and handling parts always use gloves as even a little bit of oils from your hand can cause big issues.

I would think that if the products ( base and clear) are of the same type, multiple coating in a short period of time should not be a problem. When putting urethane over enamel or acrylic, however, I think I'd want to let the base outgas for at least a week. I have seen a bubble come up on a urethane over enamel job but oddly it went down and was undetectable after about 3 days.

I don't think you'll have an issue shooting straight over the base. If you do have a little orange peel in it, unless its horrendous, you won't see it under the clear.

It will be interesting to see how it comes out for you.

Cheers,
spyug

[crazypaint]

u can wipe it clean then use a adhesion promotor first to be safe. cus if for some reson it dosent bond the clear will peal dk how long it will take to do this and also it may never i just use adhesion promotor when i do it never had a problem

[razooki]

Raz, the only Nason urethanes I found, used either an activator, or a hardener. those type of paints have a "pot life" anywhere from 1 to 4 hours. are you sure they gave you urethane and not acrylic enamel?

Here is exactly what it says on the can "Ful-Thane Urethane SS". So I think it is one-stage urethane. So if it is indeed single stage paint can I still clear it? If I can then should I just wet sand with 2000 until all surfaces are dull and then shoot the clear? This may be a silly question but if the paint is dulled by the wet sanding will it become nice and shiny again when the clear is applied?

[crazypaint]

ya u can wet sand it just dont do it to much and yes the clear will bring back the bright shine

[razooki]

ya u can wet sand it just dont do it to much and yes the clear will bring back the bright shine

Beauty!! The main paint is 2 days old and the stripes I shot last night. I guess tonight after the kids go down I have some sanding to do. Better grease up that elbow!

[ukilme]

If the paint pearl, candy or metal flake, I would just shoot a tack coat first and not sand the BC. Sanding that stuff will mess it up and it is hard to get the pearl ect. to match up again.

If is just a solid color, scuffing it should be fine and then spray a tack coat before your wet coats.

To get a tack coat with a can of clear, just spray about double the usual distance and move a little faster.

Also, if you are spraying with cans. Get yourself a trigger for the top of the can if you do not already have one. You can get it at Crappy tire. I once had a build of clear on my figure tip which got picked up with the spray and landed on the object.

And as far as paint being left, I have seen it done several times usually for a week before clearing with no ill effects but it is not generally recommend.

[posplayr]

Apparently Mac used a similar approach for his beautiful EF

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showpost.php?p=361998&postcount=22

I've also added three thin dark grey stripes to the side panels to match the tank and fairing color and painted the fairing "gills" to match. Its really a very dark metallic grey, not black. The gold and black Suzuki and GS750EF lettering was on the bike when I got it. I added the grey and resprayed the tail, fairing lowers, right side panel (from a blue bike) and added the stripe to the tank. Blending in around the existing lettering was an adventure for my first shot at painting a bike but I'm really happy with how it came out. Oh yeah, I replaced the foam and wire ties on the grips with real foam grip covers. :roll: I used these mirrors, they work well and hold position up to at least 105mph. :twisted:

[razooki]

I don't think mine turned out this nice but it's not bad at all for my first attempt. I'll post some pics when it's all back together.

[randaroo]

Just to be extra clear here...

Following the directions of the local up here in hillbilly country:
I sprayed 2 coats of Ful-Cryl II Acrylic Enamel (GM color 23U ) about a month ago. blue metallic.

Now I'm gearing up to spray the clear, Nason 496-00, tack coat, then 2 wet coats.
Next day wet sand with 2000 paper and then a good quality car polish.
I was hoping not to sand/scuff the paint befor the clear.
Have i missed anything?