Removing engine guards on my 750C

[Guest]

Have a set of engine guards on my 78 GS750 that I want to remove. The original owner had these put on, and while they look new, I do not like the way they look.

These gurads mount through the stock engine mounts. Is there a logical way in removing these so that I do not disturb how the engine is mounted in the chassis?

[Nessism]

A little hard to tell about the lower mount but the upper mount shows you can just remove the screws, take off the guard, and stick the screws right back in.

[tkent02]

Those look a lot nicer than cracked cases and bent crankshafts.
Want to sell them to me?

[NoH2Oh]

Those look a lot nicer than cracked cases and bent crankshafts.
Want to sell them to me?

Yeah, I keep telling myself that as well.....If they come off I will be keeping them, sorry. But now you have that little voice in my head really yelling.

And the lower mount runs a screw through the guard, engine mount and torque plate.

The more I work on this bike the more I kick myself for not getting one years ago,

[Rover]

Sharp bike,engine and exhaust look like you spent some time detailing,well done.

[bwringer]

You will need to get some shorter 10mm (diameter) X 1.25 (thread pitch) bolts for the lower mounting points -- otherwise, there's a chance you'll end up punching through the engine case with the bolt (yes, it's happened before). Make sure you get a good look under there and understand what goes where -- the nuts are actually these weird pear-shaped items, and threading them back on is a bear. Also, the left and right sides use different length bolts.

The top mount on these bars is usually a piece of 10mm all-thread, so you can normally just tighten that up a bit further. However, the OEM mount is a long bolt, which looks better.

Personally, I'd leave 'em on. They look great and may very well save your bacon someday.

[NoH2Oh]

Thanks fellas, decided to just keep them on. That is some good info bwringer.

Bought my bike in great condition and will post up some new picks after I get new shims in the next few days. All but one valve was tight. Sheesh.

[Seanie]

Yep, leave them on...Alot cheaper to replace them if you drop it> touch wood.

Ive a set on mine, a bit different though, handy to have them.

[wacky941]

Every bike I've had the first thing I bought for it is the crank case protectors, like everyone else says, it's a lot cheaper to replace the case protectors than it is to repair a cracked case.

My new '82 GS1100EZ bought October 2008.


My first '82 GS1100EZ bought new in 1982.

[posplayr]

I would also recommend engine guards, but depending upon your cornering would watch out about getting to large of a save especially on the left hand side where the stator cover really sticks out.

I cut mine down and while it weakened the saver some, it wil just support the bike weight and dramatically improved my lean angle. If you do down with a lot of weight on a case saver, it will lift the front tire and you will low side.

I trimmed the bottom tube with a bar end weight. High way pegs were also welded on and positioned so the bar end weight comes in contact with the ground even when pegs are out.