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Buffing Aluminum
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shibby_cbs
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Originally posted by shibby_cbs View Postis it absolutely necessary to re-clear these parts or no?...what are the conciquences?
if you clear coat them it WILL yellow and crack over time and then you have to remove it all again.a quick buff regularly on the bare shiny parts will keep them looking mint for ages, but if they do dull a bit then its easy to polish them back up again1978 GS1085.
Just remember, an opinion without 3.14 is just an onion!
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Planecrazy
Originally posted by shibby_cbs View Postis it absolutely necessary to re-clear these parts or no?...what are the conciquences?Originally posted by Agemax View Postpersonally i would say no,although others may argue otherwise.
if you clear coat them it WILL yellow and crack over time and then you have to remove it all again.a quick buff regularly on the bare shiny parts will keep them looking mint for ages, but if they do dull a bit then its easy to polish them back up again
Oh ... one other thought. I remember recently seeing a product on Stacy David's "Gearz" that was like a polish but claimed to keep oxidation away for at least a year - wish I could remember what it was called. The obvious advantage is that you don't have to "remove" it to polish again in the future ... just reapply when you're done polishing...
Regards,Last edited by Guest; 09-02-2010, 03:39 PM.
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a couple good coats of turtle wax or another reputable tough lasting wax will also seal the metal from the air and moisture.MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550
NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.
I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.
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Forum LongTimerGSResource Superstar
Past Site Supporter
Super Site Supporter- Mar 2006
- 35622
- Torrance, CA
I used Por-15 Glisten clear coat on my polished parts and they look good, although I'm not sure what engine heat will do to the engine cover finish long term.
Most all commercially produced aluminum parts will have either paint or anodizing to protect the metal against corrosion. Wax or similar is better than nothing though.Ed
To measure is to know.
Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182
Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846
Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf
KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection
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Originally posted by Nessism View PostSears sell compound sticks for cheap, only a few dollars each. The sisal wheels I use come from Caswell's Plating.sigpic
82 GS850
78 GS1000
04 HD Fatboy
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pwrdbyoreos
been wanting to clean up my side covers since i bought the bike, but just havent gotten enough good info on it. This definitly cleared up alot of questions I had. My only concern is living in new england, some of the words and elements around make me wonder how long my hard work would last. Who has done this and how has it reacted to northen conditions? What can I expect after waxing them? Would this work on pitting and minor rust on my front (chrome) fender?
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shibby_cbs
Originally posted by pwrdbyoreos View Postbeen wanting to clean up my side covers since i bought the bike, but just havent gotten enough good info on it. This definitly cleared up alot of questions I had. My only concern is living in new england, some of the words and elements around make me wonder how long my hard work would last. Who has done this and how has it reacted to northen conditions? What can I expect after waxing them? Would this work on pitting and minor rust on my front (chrome) fender?Last edited by Guest; 09-03-2010, 02:58 PM.
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