No weld frame change

[MisterCinders]

I need to lose a few inches from the back of my frame to fit a seat pan. I'd like to keep the flat bolt holes at the end of the frame and the arch for fastening license brackets, etc. See circled bits below.



Assuming there are a few inches in the back that could come off and permit me to shift the other parts forward, is there a way to do this without welding? I have no welding skills, equipment, etc.

Alternatively, if I lop off some of the back, how might I add bolt holes to the (new) end without welding? The bolt-holes would only need to hold a bracket for lights/plates, so it needn't be especially strong. Are there "caps" or other bits that can be fastened to the frame ends with mechanical fasteners or epoxy? Could I simply drill holes through the tube and use longer bolts?

Are there other ways to skin this cat?

TIA

[pete]

Do you really need to shorten the frame?

Can you extend the seat pan instead?

I have no pic's or mock ups to help explain what I'm saying so hopefully it's clear enough...

With what I hope will be my Scrambler, if I can't get a suitable seat pan that's long enough to go from the tank all the way to the rear, then I'm hoping I can "hide" the tail end of the frame rails with a carry rack. I want to put a rack on regardless, but it may help with that also.

I really don't want to cut my frame.

[DMorris]

Brazing is the next step down. It requires a bit less heat but a tighter fit to start with.

That being said, it is often worth the money in the end to do the job right the first time. You might want to consider getting everything cut the way you want it and then taking the whole works to a welder.

If I read your post right, you could also find a piece of steel tubing with an OD that matches the ID of the section you are removing. Cut out your section and then slip the smaller tube section into the sections to be joined and pop-rivet. Just don't use the result to take much load.

[Johnny Drummond]

Hi, brazing sounds good but have a look again at the portion of the frame that you have circled, it's the brace that takes the stresses from the rear shock.I definitley would'nt reccomend just using poprivets or epoxy there!,it's an accident waiting to happen.The same goes for drilling holes in the frame in that section as the tubing will be weakened unless you put a run of weld around the holes. You say that you have no equipment or experience-have you got a technical college, (think you guys call them community colleges)near you? if so why not enroll for a welding course that involves MIG(Metal Inert Gas) welding and ask the tutor if you can bring the frame in and use their equipment as part of your course.It means that you learn a new skill and fix your problem in one go. Just a thought.Johnny

[MisterCinders]

The circled bits are what I hope to keep. It's a couple inches off the tail that may need to go.

[Hammered]

In short, Yes. Cut the length youre looking to lose and crimp the area like the OEM part was. This can be done with a little brute strength and a pair of crimping pliers like these,
and then grinding the ends so theyre rounded. Mark where the holes need to be and drill to the correct size. Pretty straight forward mod.

[Curly]

A vice might be better, i dunno if you can crimp the ends with vice grips. You could also possibly sleeve the frame with some bolts, but you'd be seriously compromising structural integrity on something your plopping your entire heavy ass on.

[Hammered]

A vice might be better, i dunno if you can crimp the ends with vice grips. You could also possibly sleeve the frame with some bolts, but you'd be seriously compromising structural integrity on something your plopping your entire heavy ass on.

Getting the frame into a vise would be the trick thought. If Im seeing it correct, hes looking to remove a portion of the seat rails which is part of the overall frame. A C clamp would also work fine.

[lti_57]

If i understand this you need to shorten your frame but keep the flat part towards the end the part circled
Can you pre drill some holes and then section out however much you need then sleeve it
by sliding in a piece of metal tubing inside the frame rails and then drill and bolt
Does this make sense ?

[Colin Green]

If i understand this you need to shorten your frame but keep the flat part towards the end the part circled
Can you pre drill some holes and then section out however much you need then sleeve it
by sliding in a piece of metal tubing inside the frame rails and then drill and bolt
Does this make sense ?

That's a good plan

[MisterCinders]

Pulled the back end apart to measure and check out the frame. I probably only need to lose about an inch off the tail. If the flat tips lopped off, the length would be pretty good. I will look into crimping the ends of the tube, or may just drill through the new frame ends. The only weight supported there will be my license plate.

And so . . . . I also need to figure out a different license plate bracket. The stock frame uses a piece that bolts onto the frame at four places, two of which may not be around under my plan. So I need to fashion something that will hold the license plate.

Any ideas on scratch-building a license plate bracket?

[Curly]

A vice might be better, i dunno if you can crimp the ends with vice grips. You could also possibly sleeve the frame with some bolts, but you'd be seriously compromising structural integrity on something your plopping your entire heavy ass on.

If i understand this you need to shorten your frame but keep the flat part towards the end the part circled
Can you pre drill some holes and then section out however much you need then sleeve it
by sliding in a piece of metal tubing inside the frame rails and then drill and bolt
Does this make sense ?

Hey hey hey, no idea stealing!!!! Lulz.

I used two small strips of aluminum with holes and bent at 90* for my plate, bolted to a custom tail light bracket.

[MisterCinders]

Checking out my new seat pan, the shape and size of it may require a different approach on the frame.

Good news - the current position of some bolt holes should work for turn signals and license brackets, so I won't need to flatten or drill into the frame.

Bad news (maybe) - the cuts will go further back than I expected. Consider this image:



The purple lines are the likely cuts. That flat arc piece will not fit under the seat pan because the pan tapers down.

Do I need to replace that flat part with something else to brace the frame? Or can I hack away? Note that the reinforcing "fins" under the back end will not be altered or cut.

[Agemax]

Pulled the back end apart to measure and check out the frame. I probably only need to lose about an inch off the tail. If the flat tips lopped off, the length would be pretty good. I will look into crimping the ends of the tube, or may just drill through the new frame ends. The only weight supported there will be my license plate.

And so . . . . I also need to figure out a different license plate bracket. The stock frame uses a piece that bolts onto the frame at four places, two of which may not be around under my plan. So I need to fashion something that will hold the license plate.

Any ideas on scratch-building a license plate bracket?

although i havent shortened the frame, i completely removed the whole standard rear gaurds, welded a piece of 1" angle iron between the frame rails as a mount. then fabricated the main part from stainless and on the rear an angled aluminium bracket to mount the license plate on

[ddaniels]

Can you maybe take a rubber mallet and take a few whacks at that flat cross piece, flattening it down lower so it fits under you pan?