Help with engine case polishing, etc.

[Guest]

Howdy, the weather's so lousy here in Luxembourg at the moment (when it doesn't snow, it rains LOL) that I'm doing some cosmetic work on the 1000S. Can use guys help with a couple of newbie questions?

I'm polishing the engine cases, which are in pretty good shape (no real road-rash), but which have a fair bit of surface corrosion/oxidation.

The sprocket cover is already done and I'm now going to tackle the left hand engine crankcase cover which is in dire need of a little TLC - see below.




I realize the engine oil must be drained B4 I remove the case, but is there anything else I should be aware of? Any pitfalls or useful hints for reinstallation after polishing? FYI, I have a new set of gaskets on hand.

Also, I'm thinking of removing the case guards, which are of themselves not too pretty, but mine are heavily pock marked by corrosion (see below). I believe no amount of polishing will restore them. It's either re-chrome or paint them black - what do you guys think? I'm inclined to remove them altogether, thus saving weight and making the machine look prettier. I've already purchased a spare set of cases in case I drop her.

A question regarding removing the case guards: They are held on by 2 large bolts. Will the engine sag/lean in that direction if I remove them without first shimming the engine up, or (as I hope) will the other bolts still hold the engine in position?

$


Thanks in advance and sorry for the basic questions, this is the first time I attempt anything more than accessory installation or basic oil/filter changes on one of my bikes. The others are a 2006 Honda CBF1000 and 2008 Triumph Thruxton - see below.

[Nessism]

Why not support the engine with a bottle jack before removing the engine bolts?

[cowboyup3371]

If you have access to MS Paint, why not mock it up there and see what you think? I have the same discoloration/pockmark look on some of my pieces and plan on painting them black (just need a little warmer weather). I used Paint to mock up what I wanted and think it will look good. Now to just do it.

[Steve]

There is no need to drain the oil when removing the stator cover. All you need to do is to support the left side of the center stand with a piece of wood. Here in the US, we call it a "2x4". In metric measurements it might be a "5x10". Either way, it's a piece of wall stud used in housing construction. The bike is surprisingly stable in this condition.





Personally, I would leave the case savers on the bike. Their condition does not look that bad in the pictures. Yes, you might already have another set of cases in the event you drop the bike, but the damage can easily go beyond the cases. I have never had problems with the engine moving when a single mount bolt is removed, but, as Nessism said, you can support the engine with a jack, just to be sure.

.

[azr]

I take my front engine guards out with not troubles, you've still got two mounts underneath and several rears, it won't go anywhere but like Nessism says a bottle jack is easy enough. The engine guards should come off easy enough since you have the allen heads installed. On reinstall a bit of Never Seize on all your mount bolts and any other bolt for that matter never hurts and sure helps in the future. Are you going to put on new case emblems in the process? heck they are the one thing sold right in your neck of the woods on ebay, would probably be a real nice improvement. I'm curious of your polishing set up. What are you using for tool/wheels/polish etc...? Very nice looking bike by the way, heck very nice looking stall all together! don't forget to post the end result pictures.

[GS Jim]

Wow, that was fast thanks - for all the replies guys.
Nessism, I don't have a bottle jack, but I suppose I could try the car's jack with a scrap piece of wood to protect the oil pan.

Azr, thanks for Never Seize suggestion, I'll run down to the hardware store and see what they have like that over here. I too thought of adding an emblem to that rather naked looking case, so I ordered one like this: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...T#ht_500wt_922
For polishing, I'm no expert seeing as I've only done it a couple times before. I start with 400 grit sandpaper and wet sand till I get all the oxidation/staining off. Then I wet sand with 600 grit till I remove most of the scratches produced by the previous sandpaper. After this I rub with these German "Lava-Diamant-Rubber" polishing pads from a company called WONISCH that I picked up at a local trade show. They work pretty well and can be used dry: http://www.poliershop.com/epages/621...jectID=8328354.
Next, I use a random orbit power tool and aluminum polishing paste from the same company. The results are not concours quality, but still pretty good IMHO.

Steve, thanks for the suggestion re tipping the bike over. However, I have 2 fairly young kids running around the house, and I shudder to think what might happen if one of them tore into the garage, as they often do looking for their bikes and tipped the bike over. My 11 year old is hyperactive and very accident prone, if you know what I mean.

OTOH, I see the wisdom of your point re keeping the case guards. I'll have to think about it, because they really do look pretty fuggly up close, and the newly polished cases only highlight their shabbiness even more. Maybe I'll sand them down to bare metal, prep them for paint with a good quality primer and hit them with gloss black as Cowboy suggests, dont't know yet.

[azr]

Wow, that was fast thanks - for all the replies guys.
Nessism, I don't have a bottle jack, but I suppose I could try the car's jack with a scrap piece of wood to protect the oil pan.

Azr, thanks for Never Seize suggestion, I'll run down to the hardware store and see what they have like that over here. I too thought of adding an emblem to that rather naked looking case, so I ordered one like this: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...T#ht_500wt_922
For polishing, I'm no expert seeing as I've only done it a couple times before. I start with 400 grit sandpaper and wet sand till I get all the oxidation/staining off. Then I wet sand with 600 grit till I remove most of the scratches produced by the previous sandpaper. After this I rub with these German "Lava-Diamant-Rubber" polishing pads from a company called WONISCH that I picked up at a local trade show. They work pretty well and can be used dry: http://www.poliershop.com/epages/621...jectID=8328354.
Next, I use a random orbit power tool and aluminum polishing paste from the same company. The results are not concours quality, but still pretty good IMHO.

Steve, thanks for the suggestion re tipping the bike over. However, I have 2 fairly young kids running around the house, and I shudder to think what might happen if one of them tore into the garage, as he they often do looking for their bikes and tipped the bike over. My 11 year old is hyperactive and very accident prone, if you know what I mean.

OTOH, I see the wisdom of your point re keeping the case guards. I'll have to think about it, because they really do look pretty fuggly up close, and the newly polished cases highlight their shabbiness even more. Maybe I'll sand them down to bare metal, prep them for paint with a good quality primer and hit them with gloss black as Cowboy suggest, dont't know yet.

Just a note, hope you ordered the silver ones and not the gold. For future reference these guys have good stuff.

http://stores.ebay.co.uk/classicmotorcycledecals

[hampshirehog]

Just a note, hope you ordered the silver ones and not the gold. For future reference these guys have good stuff.

http://stores.ebay.co.uk/classicmotorcycledecals

No need to be that fussy in Europe - both the silver and gold decals are correct and you can even mix them on the same bike. On the earlier bikes they were silver and on the later ones gold and somewhere in between.....

For US GS1000Sers you'll notice the rear reflectors on the butty box aren't the same - they're mainland Europe only (and very smart I think).

[GS Jim]

Mine's actually both, the lettering is gold and the center circle is brushed aluminum.

[Agemax]

[QUOTE=hampshirehog;1335808]No need to be that fussy in Europe - both the silver and gold decals are correct and you can even mix them on the same bike. On the earlier bikes they were silver and on the later ones gold and somewhere in between.....

For US GS1000Sers you'll notice the rear reflectors on the butty box aren't the same - they're mainland Europe only (and very smart I think).[/QUOTE]

or you could change them for something along this line, if you dont like the reflector

[GS Jim]

Before & After

Here are the results:

BEFORE:


and AFTER


Now on to the clutch cover......

[GS Jim]

Agemax, those are very sharp looking indeed. However, we are probably moving back to N. America (Toronto) next summer, so the bike will have to be US/Canada compliant.

[azr]

Fantastic. Great winter restoration project, really makes a huge difference to the bike. I'm guessing it was a piece of cake to deal with the case? Hows your oil check window? (since you're pulling off your clutch cover) When you move you are shipping all your bikes over? can't imagine the cost of that. Hey how did you make out with all that snow you guys had?

[GS Jim]

Fantastic. Great winter restoration project, really makes a huge difference to the bike. I'm guessing it was a piece of cake to deal with the case? Hows your oil check window? (since you're pulling off your clutch cover) When you move you are shipping all your bikes over? can't imagine the cost of that. Hey how did you make out with all that snow you guys had?

Thanks, I bought the bike in October and intend to restore the old girl to her former glory by spring. The oil check window appears to be fine (I can see the oil level, no problem).

I'll bring the Thruxton and the 1000S over for sure, when we move. Not sure about the Honda, since it's just a hack (albeit a nice one). Will depend on cost for additional bike versus what I loose selling and replacing in Canada.

Pls don't mention snow, I'm sick of the stuff threw my back out shoveling last week.

[GS Jim]

I started on the clutch cover and breaker cover yesterday, which resulted in several "side" projects because of significant corrosion found on the foot peg mount screws/washers as well as the bearing surface (part that goes thru frame) of the rear brake pivot. The paint on the foot peg mount was also looking shabby, so I cleaned, polished and repainted as required, so now the lower right side of the bike looks considerable better. I also polished the exhaust pipe heat shield and replaced the badly worn foot peg while I was at it.



Unfortunately, I found the breaker cover too far gone, I went ahead and polished it anyway, but there are 2 deep gashes above "Motor" so replacement will eventually be required.