I really am not experienced on body work.
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media blast or chemical stripper?
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I am not experienced on body work, either, but I have seen some really botched jobs.
If you are doing this yourself, you just have to ask if you are comfortable with your equipment. Blasting with media, it appears to be a really fine line between that last layer of paint and the gel coat. You are also spraying in a rather small area that you have to keep moving to keep it even. It's sort of like trying to color in a large box with a pencil.
Chemical strippers would also have to be chosen carefully. You want to remove the paint, but not the plastic.
I am sure this stuff exists, but I have no suggestions other than BE CAREFUL.
You might actually have the best results with regular sanding. Easier to control how hard you are pushing and how fast the paint is coming off.
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Redneck
Originally posted by trippivot View PostMy dragbike body work has many layers of paint. I need to know which will be better / cheaper? it is some hard stuff on the fiberglass.
I really am not experienced on body work.
Not to mention if you can get it blasted for around $100 IMO go for it. The PINTA that stripping and scraping that is involved is for the birds.
But then again I am lazy
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Hoosier Daddy
You may already be aware of this but, media is the key word, not sand blasting when dealing with fiberglass. Specify soda blasting when getting quotes.
Having done both to a frame, I doubt I will ever sandblast something that size again. Great for smaller parts I can fit in a cabinet, but larger pieces I will go the chemical route... If you want to soda blast it, wear a resperator, not just a face shield. That fine dust in your lungs will seriously hurt or kill you.
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Seems to me chemical stripper could break down the fiberglass resin binder, and media blasting could cause erosion. A DA with 80 grit paper might be the best bet.Ed
To measure is to know.
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ukilme
Originally posted by Nessism View PostSeems to me chemical stripper could break down the fiberglass resin binder, and media blasting could cause erosion. A DA with 80 grit paper might be the best bet.
As Nessism stated, DA with 80 grit paper or even 100/120 and go finer as you get through the layers. 80, 100 grit paper can show through the paint on fiberglass.
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Katarat
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Qckslvr
Look for an aerosol can marked "Air Craft Stripper." No it is not for removing airplanes from your bike. But on a serious note Air Craft Stripper is available in two formulas, metal and plastic. You want the plastic version, it is safer for fiberglass.
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Originally posted by Nessism View PostSeems to me chemical stripper could break down the fiberglass resin binder, and media blasting could cause erosion. A DA with 80 grit paper might be the best bet.
Elbow grease and time unless you can afford someone with a dry ice blaster, to clean it up for you. The food processing industry uses this method as it leaves no residue, when finished.
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Originally posted by Qckslvr View PostLook for an aerosol can marked "Air Craft Stripper." No it is not for removing airplanes from your bike. But on a serious note Air Craft Stripper is available in two formulas, metal and plastic. You want the plastic version, it is safer for fiberglass.Cowboy Up or Quit. - Run Free Lou and Rest in Peace
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thanks for the responses, I 'd rather install and remove a carb/airbox 50 times than sand strip and paint once.
I had my doubt about chemicals and the resin interaction. I hate sanding - I'm no body man - period. soda blasting ? probably but having to start with a total skim coat of putty - ??? ugh I knew there was a reason to love ugly bikes.
yep the banana bike is going to be a thing of the past. totally has to go!!
There is no way I can just scuff and re-shoot, there is another layer of hot pink under the yellow!! double ugh! old thick hard hi quality paint materials on this clamshell. I am going all the way to the glass and starting all over. it is the only choice I have. only MAN COLORS on my ride! heck it aint 1992 all over again.
maybe the black gray and white urban cammo?
I suppose throwing a load of money at a body guy will git-er-doneSUZUKI , There is no substitute
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Hammered
I havent read through the 2 pages of responses but if you want an all around stripper thats good on thin parts ABS parts and rust, nothing bets soda blasting. Its quick, bio degradable, and theres no dust. With a few quik mods to a Harry Homeowner pressure washer, you have a inexpensive small run blaster. the media, Wash Soda is low cost in respect to sand or other dry blast medias and theres no clean up. No fumes to deal with and works. It can be done dry (lots of non toxic dust) and wet. Notice hes blasting glass without etching it.
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sachsaca
If you use a chemicla stripper and it works too fast and soaks into the fiberglass, it's permenantly ruined. Media blast, baking soda. Smooth it back out with a pollifill body filler. You won't regret it
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Rein
This is the soda blaster I use for small parts, and it works great. Cost me all of $5 (for the hose and air wand) assuming you already have an air compressor.
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