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White is a favorite senior citizen color
Originally posted by Jason the terminator View Post
Bill1982 GS1100G- road bike
1990 GSX750F-(1127cc '92 GSXR engine)
1987 Honda CBR600F Hurricane
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atb1998
I would say silver or aluminum also. Make it POP.. Black is bland on a custom. White is too much and if you decided on a color change later, white frame would limit your options.
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sharpy
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Originally posted by sharpy View PostDeep down you really want this dont you?..........Cowboy Up or Quit. - Run Free Lou and Rest in Peace
1981 GS550T - My First
1981 GS550L - My Eldest Daughter's - Now Sold
2007 GSF1250SA Bandit - My touring bike
Sit tall in the saddle Hold your head up high
Keep your eyes fixed where the trail meets the sky and live like you ain't afraid to die
and don't be scared, just enjoy your ride - Chris Ledoux, "The Ride"
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Jason the terminator
[IMG]file:///C:/Users/Jason/AppData/Local/Temp/moz-screenshot-4.png[/IMG]Here is an example of a white bike with a nickel frame. Looks way nicer than black. Almost everyone has a black or silver frame here set yourself apart.
เว็บเกมมาแรงอันดับ 1 สล็อตเว็บตรง ใช้งานง่ายด้วยวอเลท เล่นทุกเบทไม่มีขั้นต่ำ เว็บสล็อต ทุกการใช้งานสนับสนุนจากเว็บแท้ API โดยตรงไม่ผ่านคนกลาง
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Originally posted by Jason the terminator View Post[IMG]file:///C:/Users/Jason/AppData/Local/Temp/moz-screenshot-4.png[/IMG]Here is an example of a white bike with a nickel frame. Looks way nicer than black. Almost everyone has a black or silver frame here set yourself apart.
http://www.barthworks.com/cars/peter...67rickmana.jpg
You may have a hard time with a certain someone around here, always wanting to ride it, though...
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Originally posted by Jason the terminator View Post[IMG]file:///C:/Users/Jason/AppData/Local/Temp/moz-screenshot-4.png[/IMG]Here is an example of a white bike with a nickel frame. Looks way nicer than black. Almost everyone has a black or silver frame here set yourself apart.
http://www.barthworks.com/cars/peter...67rickmana.jpg1978 GS1085.
Just remember, an opinion without 3.14 is just an onion!
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sharpy
Originally posted by Agemax View Postnickel or chrome is too expensive
Motorcycle Handling and Chassis Design the art and science by Tony Foale
Frame finishes
Once we have constructed our frame we usually need to give it some coating to prevent corrosion and
enhance appearance. The finishes normally available include:
• Plating – chromium or nickel.
• Painting – a wide variety, including stove enamelling and epoxy powder.
• Plastic coatings.
• Anodizing – for aluminium parts
Plating
Although attractive in appearance, this can be expensive if a first-class result is required. It also tends to
highlight any visual flaws, such as lumpy welds and scratches. Acids from the plating process can
become trapped in some tubes, either if the joints are not fully sealed by welding or if drain holes are not
provided. By causing stress concentration, such holes can lead to premature fatigue failure. Trapped
acids can eventually give rise to internal corrosion and can leach out at the welds, so causing rust areas
and spoiling the finish.
A further risk with plating is hydrogen embrittlement. Here, hydrogen evolved during the plating process
is trapped in the grain boundaries of the steel and can lead to failure. In this respect nickel plating is
preferable to chromium. Indeed, in Formula 1 car racing chromium plating has long been banned on
suspension parts for safety. Despite the potential pitfalls, it has to be said that Rickman Metisse frames,
among others, have long been nickel plated, seemingly without trouble
Painting
New types of paint become available almost daily, hence advice should always be sought from the
manufacturers. Paints such as cellulose were old favourites for tanks and other bodywork but modern
health and safety regulations have generally caused a shift to water based paints. However, these
paints do not always match up to the needs of the frame, where traditional stove enamelling produces
the best all-round finish. The more modern electrostatically applied epoxy powders etc., have their
devotees but, though quite resistant to damage, are less amenable to touching up when scratched.
Plastic coating
This gives an excellent finish when first applied, since it conceals flaws, but is less impressive in the long
term because scratches cannot be so easily polished out or touched up as they can in paint.
Furthermore, if damage should penetrate to the underlying metal, moisture may spread for a
considerable distance under the adjacent coating, causing widespread corrosion and lifting the plastic.
With paint, on the other hand, any corrosion is local to the damage area and easily repaired.
Anodizing
Although some aluminium alloys have good corrosion resistance, the tell-tale white oxide powder on
aluminium parts is an all-too-familiar sight, especially when a bike is ridden on salted winter roads.
Anodizing, which involves immersion in an acid bath, is a protective process that prevents such
corrosion by putting a tough oxide film on the surface. This oxide layer may be dyed – usually, grey,
gold, red, blue or black – to provide an attractive appearance as well as protection. Some alloys benefit
more than others from anodizing and wrought material usually responds better than cast.
And where is my thanks for my crappy Photoshop effort???????????Last edited by Guest; 01-29-2011, 06:40 PM.
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Tim Tom
I'd say black. And while your at it with the powder coat I would also coat the swing arm black. Darkstang did his in his winter refresh thread and it looks really good IMO.
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Originally posted by sharpy View PostFrom......
Motorcycle Handling and Chassis Design the art and science by Tony Foale
Frame finishes
Once we have constructed our frame we usually need to give it some coating to prevent corrosion and
enhance appearance. The finishes normally available include:
Plating chromium or nickel.
Painting a wide variety, including stove enamelling and epoxy powder.
Plastic coatings.
Anodizing for aluminium parts
Plating
Although attractive in appearance, this can be expensive if a first-class result is required. It also tends to
highlight any visual flaws, such as lumpy welds and scratches. Acids from the plating process can
become trapped in some tubes, either if the joints are not fully sealed by welding or if drain holes are not
provided. By causing stress concentration, such holes can lead to premature fatigue failure. Trapped
acids can eventually give rise to internal corrosion and can leach out at the welds, so causing rust areas
and spoiling the finish.
A further risk with plating is hydrogen embrittlement. Here, hydrogen evolved during the plating process
is trapped in the grain boundaries of the steel and can lead to failure. In this respect nickel plating is
preferable to chromium. Indeed, in Formula 1 car racing chromium plating has long been banned on
suspension parts for safety. Despite the potential pitfalls, it has to be said that Rickman Metisse frames,
among others, have long been nickel plated, seemingly without trouble
Painting
New types of paint become available almost daily, hence advice should always be sought from the
manufacturers. Paints such as cellulose were old favourites for tanks and other bodywork but modern
health and safety regulations have generally caused a shift to water based paints. However, these
paints do not always match up to the needs of the frame, where traditional stove enamelling produces
the best all-round finish. The more modern electrostatically applied epoxy powders etc., have their
devotees but, though quite resistant to damage, are less amenable to touching up when scratched.
Plastic coating
This gives an excellent finish when first applied, since it conceals flaws, but is less impressive in the long
term because scratches cannot be so easily polished out or touched up as they can in paint.
Furthermore, if damage should penetrate to the underlying metal, moisture may spread for a
considerable distance under the adjacent coating, causing widespread corrosion and lifting the plastic.
With paint, on the other hand, any corrosion is local to the damage area and easily repaired.
Anodizing
Although some aluminium alloys have good corrosion resistance, the tell-tale white oxide powder on
aluminium parts is an all-too-familiar sight, especially when a bike is ridden on salted winter roads.
Anodizing, which involves immersion in an acid bath, is a protective process that prevents such
corrosion by putting a tough oxide film on the surface. This oxide layer may be dyed usually, grey,
gold, red, blue or black to provide an attractive appearance as well as protection. Some alloys benefit
more than others from anodizing and wrought material usually responds better than cast.
And where is my thanks for my crappy Photoshop effort???????????1978 GS1085.
Just remember, an opinion without 3.14 is just an onion!
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I've had 3 white framed bikes over the years and all 3 were quickly changed to black. Just doesn't work in my eyes.
I know chrome plating will require you to rob a bank(er) but have you looked at nickel plating? I haven't for a while but last time I asked it wasn't too bad. Can look good - just have to make sure it's not too blingy.79 GS1000S
79 GS1000S (another one)
80 GSX750
80 GS550
80 CB650 cafe racer
75 PC50 - the one with OHV and pedals...
75 TS100 - being ridden (suicidally) by my father
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mostholycerebus
Check out some of the chrome powdercoats available out there now. Of course they aren't the real thing, but they can look DAMNED good if done right. Kinda like a lighter, more reflective aluminum.
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This is how the powder coated Silver looked on the bike that is now my brothers. I really liked the way it turned out. Ray
"Nobody goes there anymore, it's too crowded" -Yogi Berra
GS Valve Shim Club http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=122394
1978 GS1000EC Back home with DJ
1979 GS1000SN The new hope
1986 VFR700F2 Recycled
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