Another paint thread....

[nvr2old]

The entire filler opening should be (and remain) bare metal to right below the shoulder of the raised area, pretty much where the filler opening is braised into the tank. When it gets masked off for paint, the paint line that ends there should then have a smear of JB weld, or better yet, Cold Weld (a 1-1, 2-part Permatex product) lightly applied over that exposed edge of paint. If it's painted right up to the hole, it should be sanded back to bare metal again and then the sealer applied with the tip of your finger. It's something that actually needs to be considered even before the primer stage. It doesn't need to be any more than just a thin coat but it does need to completely cover the paint edge and be below the horizontal surface of the opening to allow the gas cap to fit cleanly. It's really easy to do, (if planned out in advance) and it should eliminate the risk of gas fumes eating into the fresh paint edge if done properly. I learned this technique the hard way. I, too, in the past have experienced paint bubbling back around the filler opening, but this system seems to have cured the problem for the many bikes I've painted since.

[MikeG]

OK, just got the parts back! Here's a link to the Flickr Album:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/octarinefire/sets/72157626517447436/

The pics were too big to include in the post I am ecstatic with how it came out! Robbie put about 30 hours total into prepping and painting. There's six coats of clear on it. He sealed the paint around the filler neck, then cleared it.

[Nessism]

Very nice! Enjoy!

[Detroit Diesel Man]

Sweet!!! Love the blue!


DDM