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    Bead blasting

    I know this works well and some carbs and such look nice when done

    This is the work done on an ultralight engine.
    I think this would making prepping a disassembled engine for repaint easy.


    Beware there is some light hearted off colour humour.

    #2
    Why disassemble..i bead blast the engines in tact. I put corks in the exhaust ports and in the intake boots and tighten the clamps. Drain the oil and lay the engine on its side..do the bottom first and then just set the engine upright and work your way all around. blow every noock and cranny with the compressor very very well and its basically ready for paint or just clearing over and leaving a clean satin finished look.
    MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
    1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

    NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


    I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by chuck hahn View Post
      Why disassemble..i bead blast the engines in tact. I put corks in the exhaust ports and in the intake boots and tighten the clamps. Drain the oil and lay the engine on its side..do the bottom first and then just set the engine upright and work your way all around. blow every noock and cranny with the compressor very very well and its basically ready for paint or just clearing over and leaving a clean satin finished look.

      Actually that is what the guy in the vid points out
      he shows an expensively rebuilt rotart engine that died cos the owenr assumed the blasters had washed his parts.

      I imagine if the an engine is airtight then plugging the carb intakes and a few hoese is all you need.

      Comment


        #4
        Yes thats about all you need to do. I forgot to mention that you need to come up with the rubber caps for over the air breather nipple and the oil cooler nipples if your bike has an oil cooler adapter..other than that i havent had any problems. i have done 5 engines so far and not a problem with any of them..
        MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
        1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

        NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


        I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

        Comment


          #5
          And it is also note worthy to know that grease isnt very easily blasted off.. degrease the engine best as you can before you start..
          MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
          1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

          NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


          I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

          Comment


            #6
            When I first got my bike we used fine beads on the front brake calipers. I painted them with the Por15 clear cote. The finish is very nice and absolutely durable. It would look nice on carburetors too, but I understand the Por15 clear will yellow on anything that gets as hot as the motor. It makes a highly silvered mat finish. Bead size will determine the texture.
            http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...ine=1440711157'78 GS1000E, Dyna-S ignition, Dyna Green Coils, K&N pods, Delkevic SS 4-1 exhaust, Dynojet Stage 3 jet kit, Russell SS Brake Lines, Progressive suspension, Compu-Fire series Regulator 55402 and Advmonster cree LED headlight conversion.

            Comment


              #7
              I dint know about the heat yellowing clear. I shot my engines with that rattle can stuff thats supposed to withstand like 550 degrees..its turnung yellow. I gotta pull the engines at some point and rebalst them. By blasting i mean with GLASS beads. Walnut shells and other media tend to rip in to the aluminum a bit.. The glass beads leave a smooth even satin finish..very nice look even without painting.
              MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
              1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

              NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


              I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

              Comment


                #8
                Before I bead blast a part, I wipe it down with lacquer thinner to remove any oils or grease. Afterwards, I blow the part off and wipe it down again.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Yup I mentioned that. The grease just gets spread around by the gun. Youd think it would get blown off. The beads just stick to it or bounce off it..
                  MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
                  1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

                  NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


                  I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by chuck hahn View Post
                    I dint know about the heat yellowing clear. I shot my engines with that rattle can stuff thats supposed to withstand like 550 degrees..its turnung yellow. I gotta pull the engines at some point and rebalst them. By blasting i mean with GLASS beads. Walnut shells and other media tend to rip in to the aluminum a bit.. The glass beads leave a smooth even satin finish..very nice look even without painting.
                    Did you degrease the parts with lacquer thinner before you clear coated? If not they will yellow. I did mine 7 years ago and they never yellowed.

                    If you are going to blast, use baking soda. It dissolves in water, oil. etc and is a lot safer. I just did mine.
                    1981 GS650G , all the bike you need
                    1980 GS1000G Power corrupts, and absolute power corrupts absolutely

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Everything was degreased before blasting and washed again after done..maybe it was the cheaper spary can clear..dont know. I am always very meticulous and often do way more than needed just to be sure.. When i get around to doing them again..i will try sometheing else.. I had inquired about if anyone knew the part number or color that Suzuki used to paint them ..but noone really had a satisfactory response..
                      MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
                      1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

                      NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


                      I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

                      Comment

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