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Temporary Clear over bare steel

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    Temporary Clear over bare steel

    Looking for some advice. This is my first bike. I bought it almost 2 years ago and having trying to get it on the road ever since. Mechanically, I'm pretty much there (finally). Cosmetically, I've been researching (obsessively) a good spray bomb paint job and i was all ready to lay down the $$ to get it started when we ran into some financial difficulties. The problem is, i had already stripped my tank in prep for paint. I doesn't look like i'll have the money to finish the paint job like i wanted to but i NEED to get on the road this year, so i'm wondering about a temporary clear coat over the bare steel tank. It doesn't have to look great - i'll most likely paint it next winter. I just want something to protect it from rust for one riding season. So i'm looking for suggestions from experienced painters out there. It would be helpful if the clear were: A) inexpensive B) relatively easy to remove when it comes time to paint the bike the right way.
    Any suggestions?

    #2
    Skaat, honestly you might want to try doing what I'm doing right now with mine for the time being; especially since you say you intend to redo it next year. Go down to Oreilly's, Autozone, whatever and get a can of self-etching primer for $7 and a can of paint for about $6 and get it to the basics for now. You'll also need to pick up a can of their clear for about another $7. Get that much done and then come next year it won't take much to restrip it using Aircraft stripper and then properly repaint it.

    It gives you something and will come in with less than $20 plus your time.
    Cowboy Up or Quit. - Run Free Lou and Rest in Peace

    1981 GS550T - My First
    1981 GS550L - My Eldest Daughter's - Now Sold
    2007 GSF1250SA Bandit - My touring bike

    Sit tall in the saddle Hold your head up high
    Keep your eyes fixed where the trail meets the sky and live like you ain't afraid to die
    and don't be scared, just enjoy your ride - Chris Ledoux, "The Ride"

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      #3
      I agree with cowboyup--It's cheap, easy and can be redone in the future. It's also good practice for you. If you make a mistake, it won't be expensive to redo. Good luck and post some before and after pics if you can.

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        #4
        Good points. i was also thinking about the "it's good practice" angle. as it turns out, i picked up some dupli-color acrylic lacquer a while ago on clearance, so i think i'll use that. not sure if i'll post pics b/c it's a work in progress. i'd rather post them when i've done the paint the way i want to. thanks for the suggestions.
        Last edited by Guest; 03-26-2011, 10:38 AM. Reason: wrong type of paint spec'd

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          #5
          I have heard clear can be applied to bare metal using a clear bonding agent spray first..never done it myself, but may be worth more investigatiion.
          MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
          1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

          NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


          I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

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            #6
            Clear

            I can answer this one....just went through this myself. I am a paint tech guy and against my better sense tried it anyway. I turned the metal on my tank and dunstall fender to try to create profile. The coating will only adhere "mechanically" so that is necessary at very least. Typically when painting bare steel or aluminum, a wash primer (etching primer is necessary) These typically have a green hugh when applied so doesn't lend itself well when coating bare metal with clear. Anyway, after turning my tank/fender I applied a 2k acrylic clear to test adhesion. I progressed to wet sanding to 2000 grit and it looked good. I found a little flaw in the paint post cure and tried to work it with my finger nail. I easily got under the film and it peels like a bananna. I expected this may happen. It may have lasted a season if nothing actually cracked the film. If you want clear to bare metal long term, have it properly pretreated and then powdercoated with a polyester clear powder....no other good alternative.

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              #7
              I would primer it!

              Cheap, easy, and practically ready for paint whenever you get the money!
              -------


              I clear coated the bare metal on my forks.
              (after sanding down the metal nice and shiny first.)

              It is holding perfectly fine.

              I've got dirt and oil on the coating and it cleaned up fine.

              The coating came out a little foggy....I used cheap Krylon paint.


              I might decide on a fork color this summer.....

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                #8
                nope primer is porous and will let water/moisture thru and it will rust from underneath

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