Where would you not use stainless steel allen bolts?

[Mekanix]

HI, I was just wondering where it wouldn't be such a good idea to use allen head stainless steel bolts Vs stock.

I've been told it shouldn't be used in areas where high strength is required but never told why.

At the moment I have them everywhere but not in any place I think is strength critical.

Thanks,

[Steve]

Head bolts are one place I would not use them.

Although they are somewhat strong, I think they might be too brittle for the high-stress stuff like head bolts.

Someone else might have better information on that, and I would welcome any correction to my input.

.

[850 Combat]

i would not use them on motor mounts or swing arms, maybe not shock mounts.

I would not use them in any internal motor parts either.

I am using them for fork pinch bolts already, on three bikes.

[Crazy_Russian]

I'm using them on all of the engine covers, points, carbs. i would not use them on internal engine components, sprockets, brakes disks. everything else should be fine

[Nessism]

I think it's safe to use them on bolts with a "4", or no mark such as Phillips head screws and such. I wouldn't use them in place of any of the bolts marked "7" or higher.

[Mekanix]

Cool,

I found this while searching:

http://raskcycle.com/techtip/webdoc14.html

[Nessism]

Metric 10.9 = Suzuki "9" = SAE grade 8
Metric 8.8 = Suzuki "7" - SAE grade 5
Metric 4.6 = Suzuki "4" = SAE grade 1 (no marks on head)

So again, stainless is okay for metric 4.6 or Suzuki "4" bolts, but I would use them for anything else.

[hampshirehog]

You can get different grades of stainless. Suspension and brakes no problem - just get the right stuff.

Here you go:

http://www.onlinemetals.com/stainlessguide.cfm

Phil knows his stuff too - pedigree in bike engineering is second to none. He makes some absolutely beautiful SS replacement bits.

http://www.phildentonengineering.com/

Don't use the cheap crap from your local hardware store for anything important though. Some of the SS around now is about as strong as dough.

[wayfast73]

stainless has less tensile strength than steel which is why it shouldnt be used anywhere you need to torque the bolts like heads.

[Mr.Midas]

Hmm... I'll have to reconsider using A2 socket heads in place of the old rusty triple pinch bolts. According to this chart , you should be able to safely torque them into the lower range... Probably not the wisest way to go though, considering the info provided. I never realized the yield & tensile strength were so comparatively low.
Has anyone "tested" SS fasteners in the triples, and lived to tell about it?

IMO, the look of regular(hex bolt generically stamped) hardware is almost as ugly as the rusty 30+year old OEM stuff that's ready to fall off(or permanently fuse to) the bike right now. And the feeling I get from buying high-priced OEM hardware(which will corrode and look like crap all over again) rivals the concern for proper strength in replacement ss hardware. (Float bowl & cover screws are one thing, but engine components and suspension/brakes are another)


I did just pick up some OEM ZRX lower shock bolts, front & rear rotor bolts, and sprocket bolts... so I do care somewhat about safety/sound engineering... It's important to always think about the "what if's" and safety margins, if you want to keep both wheels on the rode for any length of time.



I wonder how many are zipping around out there, "getting away" with running (A2-70)SS fasteners in the definite no-no locations... I can imagine how un-cool it would be to puke a motor and/or stuff-up the brakes catastrophically.

[simon kuether]

I use zinc plated high tensile bolts for anything structural and stainless everywhere else .
Anti-sieze is your friend . Use it always , everywhere .

Cheers , Simon .

[sharpy]

Found this site and a link for there catalogue.....

http://www.tastynuts.com/

http://www.probolt-australia.com/AUS_Catalogue

Has heaps of info and bolt porn. Some info here.......

Fit & Forget! Manufactured from 316 Stainless Steel, which is superior in strength and corrosion resistance, we are proud to offer an exceptional quality product. Pro-Bolt is the first to provide Tapered Socket Caps, Flanged Hex Heads and Domed/Mushroom Fairing Bolts. We are offering a quality grade material in unique head styles – and to a polished mirror finish. Absolutely no polishing is required. Forget rough nuts and take a close look at our buffed nuts! No stamp marks in the bolt heads or cracked and grainy finishes. No matter how many dark winter nights you spend polishing mass-produced lesser quality bolts, you will never achieve the quality of finish and material we offer. Please be aware that not all Stainless Steel is suitable for stress areas. However, our 316 Stainless Steel is suitable for Engine Casings, Fairings, Screens, Front Axle Pinch Bolts, Caliper Pinch Bolts, Caliper Mount Bolts, Footrest Hanger Bolts, Clip-On Handle Bar Bolts, Brake/ Clutch Pinch Perch Bolts, Top/Bottom Yoke Clamp Bolts. Also available are 1/4 Turn D-Ring Quick Release Fasteners, 1/4 Turn Allen Key Drive Quick Release Fasteners, Brake Caliper Pad Pins, Axle Nuts, Banjo Bolts, Bleed Nipples and Motorcycle Disc Rotor Bolts.

• Material specification – 316.
• Manufacturing process: We manufacture in a single process on multi axis CNC machining centres, which includes thread rolling. Thread standards are to BS3692:1967 which is the British Standard for ISO Precision Metric Threads. Route radii vary between 0.8mm and 0.4mm. This is the maximum that we can use and improves shear strength. Thread lead varies between K1 and K2.
The head and shank are Pro-Bolt’s own designs, which have been successfully tested in the field for the last four years.
• Stainless Steels are iron alloys with a minimum of 10.5% Chromium with other elements (Nickel, Molybdenum, Titanium, Copper, Carbon, Nitrogen) added to enhance properties such as formability and strength. It is the chromium-rich, oxide film that gives the corrosion resistance of Stainless Steel. This protective film is strong and chemically stable (i.e. passive) where there is sufficient oxygen on the surface. This protection is extremely thin and will usually self-repair if sufficient oxygen is available. Please note: Under certain conditions the passive state can be broken down and corrosion can result.
• Heat Resistance: 316 has good resistance to oxidation in continuous service to 870oC and intermittent service to 925oC. However, continuous use at 425-860oC is not recommended due to its resistance to carbide precipitation. Where high strength is required at temperatures above 500oC, Grade 316H is recommended.
• Alloy Designations: Stainless Steel 316 corresponds to the following standard designations and specifications:

• Density: .................................................. ....................................8030 kg/m3 (501lb/ft3)
• Young’s Modulus: .................................................. .....................193GPa (28 x 106psi)
• Yield Strength: .................................................. ......................260MPa (37.7 x 103psi)
• Ultimate Tensile Strength: ...............................................570 MPa (82.7 x 103psi)
• Compressive Strength: .................................................. ....260MPa (37.7 x 103psi)
• Shear Modulus: .................................................. .......................78GPa (11.3 x 106psi)
• Ductility: .................................................. ........................40% elongation at break +
• Minimum value allowed by .................................................. .................ASTM A240
• Poisson’s Ratio: .................................................. .................................................. ............0.27
• Hardness: .................................................. ...............................................95 Rockwell B +
• Maximum value allowed by .................................................. ................ASTM A240
• Strength-to-Weight Ratio: .................................................. ...................32.4kNm/kg
• Stiffness-to-Weight Ratio: .................................................. ....................24 M Nm/kg

[hampshirehog]

Like I said earlier - there's stainless steel and there's stainless steel.

You can feel the Swiss cheese stuff as soon as you pick it up. Buy the right stuff and it'll be fine. I've got stainless all over my bikes, have done for years and never had so much as a hint of a problem.

[Agemax]

Like I said earlier - there's stainless steel and there's stainless steel.

You can feel the Swiss cheese stuff as soon as you pick it up. Buy the right stuff and it'll be fine. I've got stainless all over my bikes, have done for years and never had so much as a hint of a problem.

me too, i get all my stainless fasteners from INOX. very helpful, reasonable price and top quality stainless.
they specialise in bikes, old and new and you can buy a complete kit (the whole bike) not just engine covers etc, for a gs1000.
£150 may sound dear but works out a hell load cheaper than buying all the bolts in dribs and drabs

[hampshirehog]

me too, i get all my stainless fasteners from INOX. very helpful, reasonable price and top quality stainless.
they specialise in bikes, old and new and you can buy a complete kit (the whole bike) not just engine covers etc, for a gs1000.
£150 may sound dear but works out a hell load cheaper than buying all the bolts in dribs and drabs

INOX - a Hampshire company, based in Southampton (and the football team incidentally beat your local boys 3-1 at the weekend to secure promotion to the Championship). Sorry - had to just get that one in.....