Tach and Speedo all over the place!

[GabrielGoes]

Its killing me! they work @ slow speeds but once u start going they get kinda close but they bounce all over the place, this is a new guage set up btw... the tach and speedo cables are good! put oil down the both of them and they spin freely perfectly.. however i didnt spray upwards into the guages... will that fix this awful problem? it would be nice to know how fast im going and how many rpms the bike is going at... anyone have any ideas to cure this disease?

[Quick Cal]

My speedo does the same thing. I was guessing it needed lubed too.

[Redman]

.
.....................they bounce all over the place,

Lube.

Lube.

Lube the cable, not the instrument, not the drive.

Disconect cable from back of gauge.
For quick fix, spray some lube into the cable. Not a lot. Let it work its way down into cable sheath.

But better yet, Disconnect at other end and pull cable out from sheath. Clean up any old dried out lube, and relube with grease or heavy oil (not thin stiff like WD40). Also gives opportunity to inspect and see if already about to completly break.

If leave it bouncing too long it will break. What is happening is the cable is binding, and twisting tighter untill it can overcome the bind and then the twisting unwinds. The cable end at the drive is spining constantly, but binding somewhere along the way, and the end at the instrument is going slower then springin back ahead then slower.......
So that is hard on it (them) and will break before too much long, maybe already damaged some, maybe not. If concened about going on long trips you might just concider replacing them now (about $15 each) and keeping these as spares.

>>later note
Oh, I see you say you have lubed the cables.
Quess I am quilty of not reading the posting in enough detail (which annoys me when others do that.)

I have heard of others spraying lube up into the guage with some sucsess, mostly at trying to quite down churning sounds. But I would say to be cautious so dont get it up onto the back of the face glass. I have never had to do that.

I do recall one posting of a guy that drilled hole in the side of the plastic housing so could spray in lube from the side with less concern about getting onto the face glass.

Again, not from expereince, but maybe this is a good use for the silicon spray lube (rather than using petrouim based lube on plastic parts in there.)

.

[hampshirehog]

Lube, lube, lube.......first before trying anything else. Remove the complete cable and pull the inner from the outer. Give the inner a light coating in grease (lithium is my favourite but only because I have a big can of it) and pop back together.

If that doesn't work and your cable routing is ok and your drives are fine / also well greased (in the case of the speedo) then you'll need to take the clocks to bits. DON'T go spraying oil up inside the clocks - you won't get it in the right place, it's not the right lube and you'll possibly stain the clock faces / needles etc.

[BassCliff]

Hi,

Search feature provides background, procedures, and insights:

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=179509

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=160474

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=168926

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=154297

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=119214

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

[GabrielGoes]

Lube.

Lube.

Lube the cable, not the instrument, not the drive.

Disconect cable from back of gauge.
For quick fix, spray some lube into the cable. Not a lot. Let it work its way down into cable sheath.

But better yet, Disconnect at other end and pull cable out from sheath. Clean up any old dried out lube, and relube with grease or heavy oil (not thin stiff like WD40). Also gives opportunity to inspect and see if already about to completly break.

If leave it bouncing too long it will break. What is happening is the cable is binding, and twisting tighter untill it can overcome the bind and then the twisting unwinds. The cable end at the drive is spining constantly, but binding somewhere along the way, and the end at the instrument is going slower then springin back ahead then slower.......
So that is hard on it (them) and will break before too much long, maybe already damaged some, maybe not. If concened about going on long trips you might just concider replacing them now (about $15 each) and keeping these as spares.

>>later note
Oh, I see you say you have lubed the cables.
Quess I am quilty of not reading the posting in enough detail (which annoys me when others do that.)

I have heard of others spraying lube up into the guage with some sucsess, mostly at trying to quite down churning sounds. But I would say to be cautious so dont get it up onto the back of the face glass. I have never had to do that.

I do recall one posting of a guy that drilled hole in the side of the plastic housing so could spray in lube from the side with less concern about getting onto the face glass.

Again, not from expereince, but maybe this is a good use for the silicon spray lube (rather than using petrouim based lube on plastic parts in there.)

.

awesome! just that explanation of why the tach and speedo do that gives me a whole nother idea and perspective on what im up against.. i may just have to buy new cables but i like the idea of pulling the thing out of the shealth all together to wipe off the old grease and stuff... thanks so much

[tkent02]

Sometimes a little squirt of grease is needed in the instrument itself. Take it off, turn it over, put a small shot of spray grease between the inner rotating piece that is turned by the cable and the outer threaded piece that the cable threads onto. Not much, you don't want it flowing around all over the place inside there, just enough to let those two parts work smoothly together without squealing and binding up. This has fixed ten or so speedos and tachs for me.

[Redman]

awesome! just that explanation of why the tach and speedo do that gives me a whole nother idea and perspective on what im up against.. i may just have to buy new cables but i like the idea of pulling the thing out of the shealth all together to wipe off the old grease and stuff... thanks so much

GG,
You are welcome. And thanks for the responce.
But do also see Mr Tom tkent02 idea also.I think that adds a lot to what I have observed.

Sometimes a little squirt of grease is needed in the instrument itself. Take it off, turn it over, put a small shot of spray grease between the inner rotating piece that is turned by the cable and the outer threaded piece that the cable threads onto. Not much, you don't want it flowing around all over the place inside there, just enough to let those two parts work smoothly together without squealing and binding up. This has fixed ten or so speedos and tachs for me.

Tom, You know, yah, that is probably it.
Maybe the cable is binding/dragging in its sheath, as others have suggested.
And/or ... or, maybe, like you suggest, it is that rotating piece there at the attacment point of the instrument. If that were binding/draggin that would cause the same symptom. Certaily could make the chuttering noise. And maybe when people are thinking that spraying lube up into the instrument solved thier problem, it was really just lubing that rotationg piece that had the most effect.

GG,
I would now recommend first try just lubing that rotating piece in the instrument where the cable attatcehs, so that piece roatates freely in the instrument, before trying to spray lube up into the instrument and take a chance on getting it on the instrument face.
ANd lubing the cable itself (but you said you have new cables, maybe not lubed well, or maybe they have a kink in the routing).