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Corroded aluminium?

  • Thread starter Thread starter Normk
  • Start date Start date
N

Normk

Guest
Having just acquired a 1979 GS850, I was surveying and checking to see what attention was most required. Intending to obtain a collector's license plate it is necessary for the bike to be in very good condition but the engine side covers (alternator, clutch, camshaft end caps, & valve cover) were all showing signs of black corrosion-like damage.

This reminded me that many people believe that the black patches on old bike aluminium covers such as these are corrosion which has eaten into the aluminium but this is often not the case. (VBG)

Use paint stripper to remove the original varnish-like clear coating which was factory applied to protect the aluminium and it will usually be found that the apparent corrosion is discolouration of the clear coat as a result if its deterioration. I use a 3 inch hook and loop pad in a cordless drill with 800 grit paper disks to strip and re-finish the surface once the old clear coat has been removed, mostly, by paint stripper.

Follow up with 1,000 and then 1,500 grit disks and the surface is almost mirror-like. Apply some rattle can clear coat such as RM brand and the surfaces are good to go for more years.

Suzie's covers are progressing well and she will soon be looking almost young again. WhiSTler (my freshly refinished ST1100 Honda) will no longer need to be embarrassed by the "old lady" in the next spot. (VBG)

HIH

Norm
 
Well hell I was wondering how to do that, thanx a million, please post pics!
 
Dogma said:
How long is the rattle-can clear good for?
Click to expand...
Personally, I would forget about the clearcoat. If it gets dull again, just run over it again with 1500 grit to bring it back out. If it get wet, dry as soon as possible to prevent any pitting. If you clearcoat, and that goes bad in the future, you will have a bunch of work ahead of you stripping that stuff off.
 
I have acquired 1000 and 1500 Wet-n-Dry paper from an auto parts store. How is it used with hook and loop tools? I'm told they are not compatible and there are no accessories to make them so.
 
ddaniels said:
Personally, I would forget about the clearcoat. If it gets dull again, just run over it again with 1500 grit to bring it back out. If it get wet, dry as soon as possible to prevent any pitting. If you clearcoat, and that goes bad in the future, you will have a bunch of work ahead of you stripping that stuff off.
Click to expand...
Me and AZR where discussing this.You guys back east have no idea how wet it is during the winter here on the wet coast.We live in a rain forest area.during the winter the air is just laden with mosture.Clear coating polished aluminium is pretty much something you have to do here.
 
I use Por-15 Glisten clear. It's a two part paint designed for clear coating aluminum. It's a little cloudy, or at least my batch is, but it looks good enough and is fairly tough. I'm not sure how well it will hold up to the engine heat long term though. Clear powder coat would be the real deal if you want to deal with all that entails.
 
C'mon guys- how do ya use WetnDry with a hook and loop setup? I really do need to polish my cases.
 
LarryC said:
C'mon guys- how do ya use WetnDry with a hook and loop setup? I really do need to polish my cases.
Click to expand...

Hi Larry,

Have you ever considered the "search feature".:p There is a bazillon threads on how to polish aluminum parts in the archives.

Okay, check this link to get you started... http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=136634

For more threads try Advanced Search, toggle Titles Only, then search on "polish" and start reading!
 
I used search when I found this thread. Stuck with it after seeing it is current- and the mention of hook and loop. Thanks for your help.
 
SVSooke said:
Me and AZR where discussing this.You guys back east have no idea how wet it is during the winter here on the wet coast.We live in a rain forest area.during the winter the air is just laden with mosture.Clear coating polished aluminium is pretty much something you have to do here.
Click to expand...
Ahh, gotcha. Hadn't thought of that. Then definitely clear coat it somehow. I like the sound of clear powder coating. Didn't know that was an option.
 
Al u mini um
too cool.

I use a stripper.
Chemical not exotic.
I also remove the pieces fromt he engine. Clutch cover etc.

When the thick clear is off hit it on a buffing wheel.
It may seem pricy but just about any motor and a few wheels from princess auto will fit you out. They alos have kits with the range of compound.

Yah so anyway its dirty, potentially dangerous work but you can get a mirror shine.

The flaking and corroding bikes look like crap. Happily they are often part of the reason that so many old bikes are sold. 150 bucks and a bit of wrenching and effort and you will have a jewel.

There are a good many youtube vids on this so writing the process out is more than redundant.
 
As for the clear coat there are two issues. 1 the commonly available clears wil not last. 2 A reasonable effort in polishing the bare metal will keep it glowing. The clear is not "clear" enough and can fog etc.
 
when polishing aliminium a little trick i use is autosol aliminium polish then spray mrsheen over the top after polishing.the mr sheen gives it a waxy coating thus protecting it from the elements
 
Sand to 800 grit, then if you have a hand held grinder, install a buffing pad on it and apply buffing compound to it and you will be making very fast work of bringing those covers to a mirror finish, and you don't even have to remove the covers. ;) Home depot sells the stick type compound marketed by Royobi, works great!
 
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You're so right JR. I steer my customers away from clear coat on aluminum engine parts.
 
No need to clear coat IMHO. Get 'em shiny and use Mother's aluminum polish. It has a protectant in it...kind of like a wax. If you live in a humid place, go over them about once a month. None of my parts have been cleared and they still look as good as the day I did them with minimal upkeep.
 
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