Painting a Black fairing

[Anonymous]

i want to paint a black fairing, Kaw green with a aresol spray unit, should i paint it white first or a light color?

[Anonymous]

I would use a self etching light gray primer for your base.

[Hoomgar]

Second that, sand it rough first then prime it light grey. Then your ready for your Kawi green

[Anonymous]

what should i use to rough sand, no i didn't get the tracey, i got a maier quarter

[KennyJ]

If the black paint is in good condition, scuff it down with 400 grit wet/dry, then shoot your color right over it. I wouldn't use a self etching primer, for it is meant for bare steel. If the paint is sticking good to the base, there is no better primer you will put on. Use primer when you need to fix problem areas, such as scratches, chips, heavy sanding marks, etc.

I use dark primers under dark colors, not because it changes the hue of the top coat, but if I get a chip, it is not so noticable (and vica/versa).

Kenny

[Anonymous]

thats cool, yes it's a brand new fairing

[Hoomgar]

I'd go with what Kenny said as it sounds good to me as well. When I sand I just use a good old Home Depot sponge sander that has the two diff courses on it's two sides. I rough it up with the more abrasive side first then smooth it out a bit with the softer side. I have never needed anything lighter than that for any of my projects but then again I am not super picky. But the bottom line is as long as what ever botton coat you have on it is in good shape sticking firmly to the fairing and is sanded to open the pours you should be good to go. You can always let it cure and light sand and re-apply as this is a good way to paint anyway. Then you'll have your green fairing

[Anonymous]

thanks guys think i'll do the sponge sander, i have some 400 is that too much, yea half of it was already painted when i got it, well all but the side covers. and now the fairing and a lower cowling in a week

[KennyJ]

I wouldn't use a sanding sponge. I would buy real wet/dry automotive paper. The automotive paper is much more consistant with the grit size, thus no random deep scratches.

Unless you have some really irregular areas, do the whole thing in 400, wet. If you resand the rougher areas, you will most likely have deeper scratches which will not come out, thus you will see them in the topcoat. Use lots of water to keep the paper clean, and replace you paper when it quits cutting. Napa sells a nice foam rubber backing (block) you can use to back up the sandpaper that is also flexible enough for rounded surfaces. This block will keep you from getting the famous "finger sanding" ripples in the topcoat.

Kenny

[Anonymous]

Use lots of water to keep the paper clean, and replace you paper when it quits cutting.

Also watch your paper to make sure it doesn't load up with paint. The primer is especially bad for this from my past experiences. One blob of paint stuck on the paper will put some amazing scratches in the paint in seconds if you are not careful. When Kenny says use lots of water, he means LOTS. I have seen people rig up a garden hose to continuously trickle a stream of water over the part, which works great. If this is not practical, keep a bucket of clean(ish) water handy and dip the paper in it regularly (like every 15 seconds or so). When you are done wet sanding with 400 grit you should be able to see your reflection in the primer. Not really great, but it should be there.

Mark