Show me your DIY Spray Booths!

[Spyder]

I got one little piece of crude in the final coat of clear. Not too worried about it though. Should clean up fine with a light wet sand.

[pete]

Cool

Mine appeared to be in the white stripes under the clear... I really need better light too as I didn't even see it until I took them out into the sun after everything was dry...

[5150/gs]

Paut a lazy suzan on a stand to rotate the parts instead of tryin to walk around them?

[pete]

Paut a lazy suzan on a stand to rotate the parts instead of tryin to walk around them?

Good idea! The thought had crossed my mind... the extra width is more about being able to put a few things in there to spray at the same time... and it will be handy to move around for larger things like frames as well...

[5150/gs]

now ya'll got me thinkin,cause like i said,everytime i start to paint the wind starts blowing,could be dead calm too,start to paint,wind blows,tix me off it does lol

[pete]

now ya'll got me thinkin,cause like i said,everytime i start to paint the wind starts blowing,could be dead calm too,start to paint,wind blows,tix me off it does lol

With me it's rain... I don't think even a shed's gonna help that

[jeff315131]

DIY Paintbooth

I have been a painter for many years and have many high dollar cars in my garage. The best tims is early in the am bugs love clearcoat less bugs here in the am. You must pull air as well as push. have your in comming air as low to the ground as yu can wet the floor. I use a cooling fan setup out of a dodge caravan put it in the window opening hook it up to a battery charger the more power you put to it the faster ti turns. It works really good. have the parts or car closer to your intake than your exhaust air. All painters get dirt that is what buffing is for. wait about 10 minutes in between coats this gives the air in the room to calm before you start again.

[pete]

Thanks Jeff.

I've seen lots of things around saying keep your air intake high and exhaust low to get a crossflow going, but you find it's better with the intake low?

I wasn't sure about an intake fan, I was more thinking of an exhaust fan... but I guess both is probably best.

[jeff315131]

I just used a 20 inch box fan with a furnace filter on it. Angle the fan so that incomming air hits the wet floor first, any dirt that the fan brings in will be traped by the water. I have done many touch ups on high dollas hot rods in my garage this way and i get just as clean a job as in the spraybake booth at work. Dont slack on prep work that is the key to a good paint job.

[pete]

I just used a 20 inch box fan with a furnace filter on it. Angle the fan so that incomming air hits the wet floor first, any dirt that the fan brings in will be traped by the water. I have done many touch ups on high dollas hot rods in my garage this way and i get just as clean a job as in the spraybake booth at work. Dont slack on prep work that is the key to a good paint job.

Cool, that makes sense.

And yep, prep work is definitely the key! My first 2 pack job on my 450 turned out much better than I ever expected mainly from advice here on the forum but also because I took the time to prep the parts as well as I could.

I learnt a few things that will mean an even better job next time

[SweetP]

Hey Pete, not sure how intricate you're getting, but if being "Explosion Proof" is a concern there is a little to it to make it right and with in the NEC bounderies. . Explosion proof devices, lighting, even device boxes are fairly expensive. The wiring should be done in GRC, (galvanized rigid conduit), sealed off with special fittings that are filled with a special compound..(Chico dust in the trade) before entering the structure ect. Being in the electrical field I have access to pretty much anything you think you may need, and can get it at wholesale/contractor pricing. If I can help in any way please feel free to ask. Good luck w/ your project! (P.S. I actually just noticed that you're in Australia! Though the offer still stands for getting you parts for your project if need be, I'm sure you may be able to get them there also! Sorry about that!)

[pete]

Hey Pete, not sure how intricate you're getting, but if being "Explosion Proof" is a concern there is a little to it to make it right and with in the NEC bounderies. . Explosion proof devices, lighting, even device boxes are fairly expensive. The wiring should be done in GRC, (galvanized rigid conduit), sealed off with special fittings that are filled with a special compound..(Chico dust in the trade) before entering the structure ect. Being in the electrical field I have access to pretty much anything you think you may need, and can get it at wholesale/contractor pricing. If I can help in any way please feel free to ask. Good luck w/ your project! (P.S. I actually just noticed that you're in Australia! Though the offer still stands for getting you parts for your project if need be, I'm sure you may be able to get them there also! Sorry about that!)

Mate thanks for the offer!

I'm not sure if explosion proof is going to be an issue or not given I'll be spraying something maybe once or twice a year... I just want the ability to do it without having major grief from neighbours/council etc.

I'm thinking at the moment an inline exhaust fan that I can duct away from the filter will be safe enough for the limited use, but still quite a way from any decisions on that front at the moment. Currently I'm just working on the frame planning etc. so I know what materials I need. No rush though, plenty of stuff to do before moving the fence to be able to even lay the concrete yet...

[cowboyup3371]

I wanted to bring this back up again as I'm curious about the fans are used. Are there holes cut into the plastic to allow the air in/out? Or is the plastic just porous enough to let air in? I haven't really paid attention to the plastic sheets before so I'm not sure.

But either way Pete, did you finally do this?

I found a site online today that uses PVC to build the frame, sheeting to cover it, and a drop cloth on the floor to keep the paint off of it. Are there any other suggestions?

[pete]

Hey Scott, I haven't gotten there yet, but I will definitely be making an attempt at it.

We've moved the original garden shed, so next I need to move the side fence, and then I can level out the ground and get the form work down for the concrete base.

Once that's done I can finalise the frame plans and get building... most likely going to be into next year before I've got the concrete done unfortunately.