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Engine mount bolts/Case guard

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    #1

    Engine mount bolts/Case guard

    1978 GS 750

    Purchased a case guard a while ago and am finally getting around to put it on the bike. The bars came with a long(er) bolt to go through the engine, but not with longer lower engine mount bolts. Anyone know what size (diameter, thread, maybe length -- though obviously this depends on the width of the guard -- etc) bolts I'll need? Alternatively I can just go to the hardware store/Autozone with the bolt and match it, but to avoid running around, I'm wondering if anyone's already dealt with this.
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    #2
    Can you give us a pic of the crash bar?
    sigpicMrBill Been a GSR member on and off since April 2002
    1980 GS 750E Bought new in Feb of 1980
    2015 CAN AM RTS


    Stuff I've done to my bike:dancing: 1100E front end with new Sonic springs, 1100E swing arm conversion with new Progressive shocks installed, 530 sprockets/chain conversion, new SS brake lines, new brake pads. New SS fasteners through out. Rebuilt carbs, new EBC clutch springs and horn installed. New paint. Motor runs strong.

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      #3
      Originally posted by mrbill5491 View Post
      Can you give us a pic of the crash bar?
      I'm at work so I can't take a pic, but this is about as close as I could find (obviously not the right one, but same design) http://www.ebay.com/itm/SUZUKI-GS500...2#ht_500wt_986

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        #4
        Originally posted by beardedmonkey View Post
        I'm at work so I can't take a pic, but this is about as close as I could find (obviously not the right one, but same design) http://www.ebay.com/itm/SUZUKI-GS500...2#ht_500wt_986
        Except that that one has two long bolts. Mine has a long bolt through the top and a slotted thing at the bottom -- meant to slip under the engine mounting bolt without fully removing it.

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          #5
          I don't know off hand but a parts fiche at babbittsonline would tell you the dimensions.

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            #6
            Be very careful with the lower engine mount bolts. I had to cut mine to length because I found that if I didn't, I would punch a hole in the engine case. I learned about this from another member here, and when I checked it out, sure enough, they were too long. Had I used the bolts I had, I would have punched 2 big holes in the lower case. Ended up buying new bolts that were much too long, because I wanted the unthreaded portion to support the engine, then cut them to length. MAKE VERY SURE THEY AREN'T TOO LONG!

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              #7
              I was gonna post the same thing about the bolt lengths..AND remember that they arent the same length for each side either...put one in the hole first to be sure its the right one for that side..if it clears the engine cases then proceed from there.
              MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
              1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

              NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


              I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

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                #8
                Here's the case guard on mine:



                I believe it has three mounting points. If it looks close to yours, I can check the bolt lengths when I get home tonight.

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                  #9
                  Originally posted by Eric View Post
                  Here's the case guard on mine:



                  I believe it has three mounting points. If it looks close to yours, I can check the bolt lengths when I get home tonight.
                  That looks like mine, but mine definitely only has two mounting points -- lower and higher. Thanks for the advice on the length guys -- actually when I tried to mount them the last time the little teardrop-shaped spacer thing fell out... I was a little concerned until I looked it up in my Clymer; turns out it's just a "nut plate" and was able to put it back no problem. The other disconcerting thing was that when I went to put the original long upper bolt back after I realized the bars would fit, the engine had dropped about 1/8" and the second two holes between the engine and the frame no longer matched up. After about 30 seconds of panic I realized I could just use my car jack to lift the engine back up. Anyway, I'm gonna take a pic right now...



                  So there they are. The slotted holes go to the bottom while the regular holes go to the top. Eric, yours look a lot like mine, though I guess they're not if yours have 3 mounting points. If they only have 2, yes, please let me know the lower bolt lengths!

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                    #10
                    Mine does have 2 mounting points, guess my memory isn't perfect . It uses the stock bolts - 10x55 on the left and 10x65 on the right. I checked and the bolts still go through the tear drop shaped nut.

                    I took a picture of mine as it is slightly different, but photobucket seems to be having problems and won't let me upload. It shouldn't make much of a difference, though. It's still just putting the mounting bracket under that bolt.

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                      #11
                      Originally posted by Eric View Post
                      Mine does have 2 mounting points, guess my memory isn't perfect . It uses the stock bolts - 10x55 on the left and 10x65 on the right. I checked and the bolts still go through the tear drop shaped nut.

                      I took a picture of mine as it is slightly different, but photobucket seems to be having problems and won't let me upload. It shouldn't make much of a difference, though. It's still just putting the mounting bracket under that bolt.
                      Wait, yours took the stock bolts? Hmmm... Ok, well looks like rain tomorrow, so I'll take another look on Sunday. Thanks friend!

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