Battery Relocation Noob

[MisterCinders]

I really dig your work, learning from mistakes, trying things out, keeping at it until your happy, it's really in the true spirit of cafe-ing.

*blushes*

Thanks. This trial and error stuff is fun and therapeutic.

[Bonehead]

Definitely need to get into this, looks awesome Master

I will be trying to do the same on my 650g. I looked at someone else's thread somewhere and it gave me a good idea of how to do the box let me see if I can find it... HA! Found it. It is from Dec79's gs750 project, which by the way is beautiful (The post with pictures is about 1/4 way down). Hope it helps Master

[MisterCinders]

Definitely need to get into this, looks awesome Master

I will be trying to do the same on my 650g. I looked at someone else's thread somewhere and it gave me a good idea of how to do the box let me see if I can find it... HA! Found it. It is from Dec79's gs750 project, which by the way is beautiful (The post with pictures is about 1/4 way down). Hope it helps Master

Holy smokes. That. Build.

Don't have the welding skills or gear to follow that path, but the next iteration will be much cleaner for wiring and the seat mount.

Looking into getting some gate hinges that I can alter to marry up to the hinge parts on the frame. The stock seat hinges put the screw mount holes pretty far to the left. So to use those hinges, the seat itself must be extra wide or skewed to the left. With a different hinge plate that put those mounting holes further in, I could still use the seat hinges, but have more room to center a narrower seat over the frame. The hinges themselves would stick out, but that's NBD.

[Toasty]

How sturdy is the metal pan? Have you run into any issues with the battery bouncing around?

[MisterCinders]

How sturdy is the metal pan? Have you run into any issues with the battery bouncing around?

The sheet metal pan is solid. Once I formed the box, I used some adhesive backed foam to keep the battery from vibrating and rattling, and to snug up the fit.

Re-did the back pan and battery tray this weekend to clean up some of the wire paths and try another set-up for securing the tray to the frame.

I also played around with some other methods for leveling and fitting the seat. Came up with some leveling posts using some large machine screws and threaded inserts.




Basically install a couple insert nuts into the seat plank in line with the frame tubes. Then put a hex nut and lock washers on a 2" machine screw. By turning the screws, I can dial in the seat height to level it with the gap caused by the hinges. Once it's where I like it, the hex nut and washer/lock-washer tighten up to fix the screw at that point.

It works pretty well, but there are some issues requiring a bit of fine-tuning.

First, the board I was using does not line up with the frame at the front because it's too narrow. So, I had to use a wooden spacer in the front. I'll play with some wood to shape up a better board.

Second, I was going to do this with some self-leveling furniture feet, but the only things I found at the Home Depot were either too big, or were sliders instead of rubber feet. I'll try to hunt down better hardware and/or some sort of rubber pad for the screw heads.

Will take and post pics later.

[MisterCinders]

This has promise.

http://www.aerohydraulics.com/p-superfix-m8m10-easy-lock-363043.aspx

[MisterCinders]

Went back and re-did the battery box and electrics tray for a bit of a cleaner look:







Still wrestling with how to hide more wires but still have a single-point ground to the R/R underneath.

[Toasty]

It's definitely looking much cleaner, I'm looking forward to see how it all turns out!