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cling film and fibreglass

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    cling film and fibreglass

    i want to make a fibreglass replica of the front of my bellypan. it will be some kind of removable stone guard/accent piece that will fit over it.
    i am thinking, could i cover the pan in cling film and then lay the fibreglass over that so it comes away easy when it has hardened or is there a better way, like some sort of release agent to spread over it before glassing?
    cheers,
    1978 GS1085.

    Just remember, an opinion without 3.14 is just an onion!

    #2
    GREENSEAL...Its a brush on release agent used in die making processes...it will come off the part as well. Found this place with a quick Google search. The resins in the fiberglassing kit may eat plastic film, and unless its perfectly smooth the film will leave marks in it as well.

    Last edited by chuck hahn; 10-10-2012, 10:04 AM.
    MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
    1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

    NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


    I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

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      #3
      ok Chuck,thanks. i knew about proper release agent but i wondered if there may be a cheaper way,sommat lying around the house.......LARD maybe haha....
      i will check out the local bodyshop supplier tomorrow
      1978 GS1085.

      Just remember, an opinion without 3.14 is just an onion!

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        #4
        When glassing over the foam molds coated in masking tape, I give them several heavy coats of car wax to ease removal.

        Of course, I don't care about the form's survival, so that may not work well enough here.

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          #5
          Been doing some fiberglass experiments for my digital fabrication class this semester. The whole class is centered around rapid prototyping specifically with CNC, Laser Cutter, and 3d printing. The class is a whole load of fun and I'm learning lots.

          For one of the projects I was laying fiberglass over a fairly intricate CNC cut foam form. Tried several methods of protecting the foam from the resin, including using suran cling wrap. It did work very well at isolating the part from the fiberglass. Much better than packing tape, as the tape allowed some resin to seep though the edges of the tape. That could have been my fault based upon the form of the part though.

          You will however have to be careful not to get air bubbles and minimize the creases in the cling wrap. It can be done, but it takes some time to get right. I recommend using painters tape or something to secure the cling to the part so it doesn't move around while your stippling the resin through the cloth.

          There are tons or release agents available. Some are wax based, others are aerosols. I used Vaseline because I had it on hand from other casting projects. Worked like a treat.

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            #6
            hmmmm cheers, i have some vaseline i think. may try that
            1978 GS1085.

            Just remember, an opinion without 3.14 is just an onion!

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              #7
              Originally posted by Agemax View Post
              hmmmm cheers, i have some vaseline i think. may try that
              Maybe silicone grease? Dow corning MS4 type stuff, its slimey as snot and nowt sticks after that stuff's been on.
              sigpic

              Don't say can't, as anything is possible with time and effort, but, if you don't have time things get tougher and require more effort.

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                #8
                cheers, i know i got some of that! lots of it !
                1978 GS1085.

                Just remember, an opinion without 3.14 is just an onion!

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                  #9
                  Any place that sells fiberglass supplies will sell stuff called mold release. It's sort of a wax and probably similiar to what Chuck has mentioned. The benefit with using something like that is your finished mold will required far less cleanup work due to bubbles or wrinkles and any small details will be preserved. It's cheap, designed for the job and will just plain work.
                  '84 GS750EF (Oct 2015 BOM) '79 GS1000N (June 2007 BOM) My Flickr site http://www.flickr.com/photos/soates50/

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                    #10
                    cling wrap will work fine, find the thickest one possible (check catering stores).
                    For a mold release, cooking spray works well for quick and dirty projects.
                    1984 GS550ES
                    Rebuild in progress....

                    1983 GS750ES
                    4700 miles

                    1978 GS1000E...Resto-mod to come

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